Alaska 140 auger

Just picked up a 140 auger, I know it needs at least 3 grates.
How hard are they to replace?

Also does anyone have wiring diagram for this unit?
The guy had two control boxes and all was disconected.

It needs some work, but got it for $500, it's solid.
Tearing it down to replace all gaskets and to reverse hopper location.

Pictures to follow.
Need any info on this unit for proper operation.

Anyone ??

Some pics.

Auger motor was frozen. Tore it down , reassembled, works good now.


Just need info on control boxes..

You probably want to get all six grates at the same time.It's a wise investment. The three that you think are good look like they don't have any life in them. I see cracks in all of them. They look just like EFM grates.

Alaska Stove Manual

From looking at photos, you may have two controllers basically the same...one in the bucket.

First you want to take the top ring off. If you need to get an idea how everything is held together, break out the plates that are all ready broke. They should be brittle and disintegrate if you tap them. Don't hit them hard. The burner plates should screw to the top ring with stove bolts. Those break easy too. Just go to hardware store and get new for a quarter a piece. The top piece should be held to the body with the same size stove bolts. That stove was a STEAL for $500

Thanks all!!
I am at a loss with this unit.

As far as the controllers, one seems to use a T Stat and I'm guessing the other does not.
Hopefully both work.

Thanks for the tip on removing the burner plates, the look like they are cemented to the bottom & top.
I will try & remove the top ring. Again thank you for the tip.

I am truly excited to get this stove.
a little elbow grease and some time I think It will serve me well.

It was a road trip to Jersey Shore Pa. from Pittsburgh area , but well worth it.

Again thanks all.

I'm sure I will have more questions..

I think one box controls the convection blower, and one box controls the auger motor via the thermostat. The combustion blower stays on all the time. The combustion blower has two speed settings on it - high for coal and low for wood pellets. Mine doesn't have a fume switch but it does have an interruptor for the combustion blower so that when you open the hopper lid the combustion blower turns off. I've also got the newer style digital 'heat control box'. Once you get all the wiring figured out, label them so that when/if you take it apart it will be easy to put back together.

The burner plates might have burned out if the fines weren't cleaned out from beneath them. That happened to my neighbor because he didn't know he was supposed to clean them out. There is a plate that comes off the very bottom of the burn pot - take it off and all of the fines will come pouring out. Take that off to dump the fines mid-season and end of season. Also - use some high temp lube on the bolt that holds it in place so that it doesn't freeze up on you.

Thanks for the pics mdrelyea , it helps seeing them set up.

How does your thermostat hook up?
I see 4 wires 2 black & 2 white ?
The thermostat didnt come with mine , lost I can assume, but want to add a stat.
Just wanted to know how it hooks up, what wires go where..

If this is a fume switch & yours does not have one can I eliminate it?
It looks busted up + its bypassed, both wires on 1 terminal..

McGiever, thanks for the manual..

xaos wrote:Thanks for the pics mdrelyea , it helps seeing them set up.

You're welcome. Let me know if you need to see anything else.

xaos wrote:How does your thermostat hook up?
I see 4 wires 2 black & 2 white ?
The thermostat didnt come with mine , lost I can assume, but want to add a stat.
Just wanted to know how it hooks up, what wires go where..

Ignore my extra set of black and white wires. I was tinkering with my system and added some extras. I should have taken them off when I took the picture. You should have one set of wires going to your thermostat. They'll hook up to the heat control box.

xaos wrote:If this is a fume switch & yours does not have one can I eliminate it?
It looks busted up + its bypassed, both wires on 1 terminal..

I don't recognize that part, and don't know what it's function is so I can't tell you if you'll be able to eliminate it or not.

How is it coming xaos? Have you got the wiring sorted out?

mdrelyea wrote:How is it coming xaos? Have you got the wiring sorted out?

Pretty much.
finished painting it last night, will begin reassembling after work today & replacing gaskets.
Should receive new burn plates today.
Picking up a 24v T Stat to begin testing the controls.
Picking up a ton of rice this weekend.
Hopefully have its maiden burn Sunday.

I will post some pics of the burn plate install + finished installation to follow.

Again all, thank you for all the input, It really helps.

Did you paint the inside of the hopper? I had a condensation problem with mine on the inside of the hopper. It was getting pretty rusty after the first season. With the sealed hopper there was nowhere for the moisture to go. After sandblasting it I gave it a couple of good coats of primer and three good coats of enamel. Haven't had any problems since. Might be worth your time before you get it all set up.

Nope, I did not..
Sounds like a good idea.
Don't have a sand blaster but I'm sure I can sand it, spray it with the high temp paint I used for the body & then brush on some high temp enamel.

In fact I will do this tonight, it should dry quickly enough. Might even add some color like a red in there, just for the heck of it..

Thanks for the tip..

Hey, in the off season do you apply (WD40) to the interior of the body as per the manual ??
I was thinking on spraying a light coat of used motor oil in it.