To Baro or Not to Baro?

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: gambler On: Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:42 pm

you should be taking the flue gas temp before the baro not after.
gambler
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: Cap On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:25 am

Ok gambler, educate me. I only use it as a reference point in relationship to my heat output and burn efficiency.
Cap
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: gambler On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:43 am

If you did not have the baro installed last year and were seeing temps of about 300 degrees and now with the baro installed and your thermometer taking the reading above the baro you are measuring flue gas that is diluted with cool air from your house. The flue gas after the baro runs much cooler than the flue gas before the baro. If you are trying to compare it to flue temps from years past you are comparing apples to oranges. Move your thermometer below the baro.
gambler
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer


Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: gambler On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:09 am

Cap on Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:42 pm
I don't get it. Why are everybody's stack temps so high burning coal?

I use a good quality Ashcroft 5" dial with a 4" probe threaded into the stack pipe. So I know I am sensing flue gas temps which are ALWAYS 140F to 160F. Even lower when I have the damper cranked in.


Cap, taking the temp reading above the baro is probably why you see such low temps.

coaledsweat on Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:24 am
I lose about 100* in the stack after the baro even when closed.
gambler
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: e.alleg On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:13 pm

Cap, you have the weight on the wrong side. Take a look and it should say "H" or horizontal or "V" for vertical, I have the same damper and for a vertical installation which you have the weight should be on the right. Minimum draft for hand fired is .06, so if you set the draft for .06-.08 which will be near the end of the slot you are good.
e.alleg
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 520

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: Dallas On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 2:27 pm

I've missed two improperly installed baro dampers in the pictures! ?? I must be losing it. Cap's isn't mounted with the pivot axis level, either.
Last edited by Dallas on Thu Dec 20, 2007 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dallas
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modified Russo C-35
Other Heating: Oil Hot Air
Stove/Furnace Make: Russo
Stove/Furnace Model: Modified C-35

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: Cap On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 6:56 pm

E.Alleg, yes, I just changed the weight to the right side. I missed it when I set it up. Maybe this will solve my problem? Thanks for noticing.

Rick, I was referring to the heat accumulator temperature. The 2nd image reading 215F. The most I can get with the baro (before the weight change as noted above) was 220F. Without the baro, I can climb higher in heat output to the living area..

My stack temps, always have lower temps than most other units. This Harman is very efficient in regards to capturing as much heat as possible before sending the flue gas up the pipe.
Cap
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: LsFarm On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:45 pm

Mark, your stack temp measured up above the Baro will be probably 100* cooler than measured below the baro. Unless you are measuring it with the baro covered in tin foil.

Greg
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: WNY On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:39 pm

Now you guys got me wondering... I have some digital Temp. Probes I put INSIDE the pipe thru the screw holes.

I do have one for the Stack Temp just before the Chimney as indicated by the 178.5 Deg., I like to know how hot the flue gas going up the chimney, even really running hot (Front of stove around 400-450), it only gets 225-240.

I put another coming out of the stove pipe before the Baro approx. 3 feet down and 18" from the stove.

The Outside Temps are around 32 deg. The baro is CLOSED

Here's the results, the stove is basically on idle right now, it's plenty warm in the living room.
That's a 57 Deg. Difference in only 5 feet of pipe with the baro. : )

I will check the new results once it gets colder and draws more and running a bit hotter.
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WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: Cap On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:47 pm

Greg--You are on the mark once again, ( Rick too ). I just checked my log from last winter. My stack temps were relative to the hot air output with a steady increase as the heat output would rise. For example, 24F ambient at 0600hrs on 12/10/06. Hot air 200F, stack 290F. 12/11/06 @ 0600hrs, 35F ambient, hot air 132F, stack 160F. 12/20/06, 25F ambient, hot air 185F, stack 250F.

I think I'll move the thermometer this Sat. JC told me the deep mined coal burns hotter but this is the first time I compared notes from the strip mine coal I used the last 4 years. Deep mine is solid 35F-40F warmer temps.
Cap
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: coal berner On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 10:12 pm

Cap wrote:Greg--You are on the mark once again, ( Rick too ). I just checked my log from last winter. My stack temps were relative to the hot air output with a steady increase as the heat output would rise. For example, 24F ambient at 0600hrs on 12/10/06. Hot air 200F, stack 290F. 12/11/06 @ 0600hrs, 35F ambient, hot air 132F, stack 160F. 12/20/06, 25F ambient, hot air 185F, stack 250F.

I think I'll move the thermometer this Sat. JC told me the deep mined coal burns hotter but this is the first time I compared notes from the strip mine coal I used the last 4 years. Deep mine is solid 35F-40F warmer temps.


And i also told you to move or put another thermometer below your baro My outside pipe temps are 150 f to 170 f Now my inside pipe with a Probe thermometer below the baro Temps are 450 f to 475 f The air Temps are 275f to 325f depending how hot I am Running the stove The inside flue temps can hit 1100F when I open the ash door I see you moved the weight on your baro to the correct side did you put a level on it to make sure the pivot points are level By the way I told you so about the Deep mine coal Vs strip coal ;)
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: Wood'nCoal On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 10:15 pm

Sorry Mark, I missed the weight being on the wrong side as well.

John
Wood'nCoal
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: Cap On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:20 pm

JC, The baro is level, the camera was cocked. :lol: Actually its such a tight connection when I installed it, I quit trying to make it perfect. I nearly busted the the baro when installed this season trying make it level.

But with the weight moved to the right, it seems to be holding closed more than with the weight on the left side. I'll know more in the morning. My eyesight ain't what it used to be. I never would of missed that 5 years ago. I need readers for any work I do up close. It's depressing. :x

What new topic can we talk about for the next two days?
Cap
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: coal berner On: Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:47 pm

Cap wrote:JC, The baro is level, the camera was cocked. :lol: Actually its such a tight connection when I installed it, I quit trying to make it perfect. I nearly busted the the baro when installed this season trying make it level.

But with the weight moved to the right, it seems to be holding closed more than with the weight on the left side. I'll know more in the morning. My eyesight ain't what it used to be. I never would of missed that 5 years ago. I need readers for any work I do up close. It's depressing. :x

What new topic can we talk about for the next two days?
I also seen your Photo of your baro and wanted to tell you
about the weight but one of the kids needed me so I did not have time to let you know before other did anyway what ever you would like to talk about fire away How's work going you can Pm me to let me know about that :lol: Talk to you later
keep that Sf 250 cranked up keep warm see ya ;) P.S. I know what you mean about the eyes I am starting to have problems to :(
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: To Baro or Not to Baro?

PostBy: Wood'nCoal On: Fri Dec 21, 2007 9:50 am

Mark,
Please let me know how the stove is burning with the weight in the other position. As far as glasses, I had to start wearing them for reading about 7 years ago, I've now "graduated" to (this is terrible) bifocals, because things a few feet away were getting fuzzy. It is depressing. At least I have the no line progressive lenses so I don't look like someones grandfather. And then there's the gray hair...and the twinges of arthur-itis.
Wood'nCoal
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert