Help, AA130 overheating

biggreen1 wrote:McGeiver,
Thanks for all the tips.

Update.
Axman Anderson now puts electronic Aquastats on now. Part# L7224C-10004B. Cost is $128.48. I think the price is pretty good and am getting one ASAP.

Also, They said the marathon motor uses ball bearings and is not oilable.

I installed that electronic aquastat on my 1959 AA130, and I like it.
Got it on ebay for like $70-$80 bucks.

Seems it is still a 'mystery" as to how you had the high current draw in the first place??? Unless it was a fault inside the aquastat it's self, I'd be scared of maybe doing the same to the new one. OUCH
If I could not determine the cause, I'd be adding a in-line fuse to limit the current to a safe lower level to protect the new aquastat/investment. (I was typing this as *whistlenut* was posting above)

biggreen1 wrote:Does your boiler have a marathon motor, are they oilable/greaseable?

I just looked.... I do have the 1/4HP Marathon motor. Ball bearings, no oil needed.

My buddy Charlie with the AHS130....he has a 1/2 HP motor, and the AHS motor doesn't work an auger or an asher. I've never figured out why they use the extra HP.

Well. After studying the wiring diagram, I realized that the there is another source of power that can turn on the boiler irregardless of the triple aquastat. The red wire that became burnt traces over to the timer............. When it turns on for that 1 minute it completely bypasses the aquastat and runs the boiler. My timer stopped working during that 1 minute it was on(and forced it to run continuously up to the safety aquastat cutout that was set way up at 230 as per instructions).

I'm going to keep the high temp cutout much lower now.

I understand.
I would of mentioned that, but it was clearly damaged at the aquastat.

So, the aquastat is still okay?

I would never wire the timer's circuit through the aquastat...a wire-nut to the wire going to the L6006A HI Limit that then comes back to the motor splice in the junction box would be my choice.
Who needs a toasted circuit board when it is avoidable.
I'd at the very least, replace that burnt connector...it has lost it's tension and will be hot getting hotter all the time. But change wiring is best.

I guess you know, boiler will run fine w/o the timer, most of the time. Takes a long period of not firing to get an out-fire on these Axemans.
What I am saying is you can still run while you get a new one or repair that timer.

Edited to add: Important... Timer circuit must wire thru (L6006A) Hi Limit before connecting to motor splice.

McGiever wrote:I understand.
I would of mentioned that, but it was clearly damaged at the aquastat.
So, the aquastat is still okay?
I would never wire the timer's circuit through the aquastat...a wire-nut to the motor splice in the junction box would be my choice.
Who needs a toasted circuit board when it is avoidable.
I'd at the very least, replace that burnt connector...it has lost it's tension and will be hot getting hotter all the time. But change wiring is best.
I guess you know, boiler will run fine w/o the timer, most of the time. Takes a long period of not firing to get an out-fire on these Axemans.
What I am saying is you can still run while you get a new one or repair that timer.

I think the wire was fried because of a loose connection there. The aquastat is working ok.The wiring is as you have suggested. All the wire ends have been replaced.

Why would Axman/Anderson recommend a high cutout of 230 degrees?

Why would Axeman/Anderson recommend a high cutout of 230 degrees?

Was 230* setting for steam?

Everybody uses 200*-205* for hot water high cutout.

It was the specs for hot water. Here's a pic of the instructions I went by, straight from AA. Though they do look like they were written about 50 years ago.