I've found that 4 letter words and some stout drinks always make coal burning more entertaining..franco b wrote:That sounds easy enough. Just a few 4 letter words to ease the way.
I look at four letter words as "intensifiers"..
I've found that 4 letter words and some stout drinks always make coal burning more entertaining..franco b wrote:That sounds easy enough. Just a few 4 letter words to ease the way.
The more you do it John, the easier it'll get. But like I mentioned much further back, the engineers sure didn't make it easy for us. I ended up taking my 7 1/4 disc sander with some 60 grit, and grinding away some material on the edges of the aprons which were tight too.Belgianburner wrote:I'm here to report that the hopper installation wasn't as bad as expected...it was much worse.
You should be able to turn that puppy down if it's making too much heat, which will lower your coal consumption. I know you said the dial is on "0", but is the primary damper door still open? It should be closed tight on 0. Also, do you have a manometer to see how your draft is? How bout an MPD, or baro?The stove took quite a while to get going, even with ash door open, but when it finally did, I had to turn it way down. It was still 80+ in here after reining her in (28 oats). No ladies, just a bright orange glow lighting the room. It's below zero on the dial now, but maybe my dial is out of calibration. I predict this stove is going to eat more coal than the overfiring F-B, but produce a lot more heat.
I learned a lot from your video Joe, and it was nicely done also.joeq wrote:I'm glad it cleared some things up men, glad you got something from it. Sometimes words and photos only go so far with my "Forrest Gump" brain, and videos go that extra distance.
That's all fine and good John, but you didn't say if the damper was "CLOSED" when you put the dial to "0". It should be sealed tight, and you shouldn't be able to get even a .002 feeler gauge past it.Belgianburner wrote:"The more you do it John, the easier it'll get."
I'd really rather not go through that fiasco again. Do you HAVE to remove it to clean the ports? Can't you just move it forward and fish a vacuum hose in behind it? Sounds a whole lot easier.
" I know you said the dial is on "0", but is the primary damper door still open? It should be closed tight on 0. Also, do you have a manometer to see how your draft is? How bout an MPD, or baro?"
It's working just fine, and doing a great job of heating the house. I was just surprised at how low I have to set the damper dial, compared to my other stove. This one has an MPD but no baro* (Inside chimney with adequate draft). My other has a baro but no MPD (outside chimney with fluctuating draft). I don't have a manometer on either (yet), but the temp just before the thimble is about 165 vs. 200+. so I think I'm losing a lot of heat up the chimney on that stove...maybe an MPD would help with that.
* I bought a 5" baro, but ended up using 6" pipe (no 5" in stock anywhere). You can't use a 5" damper in a 6" reducer "T" can you?