How Barometric Dampers Function, Why Use a Barometric Damper

[quote= In Dave's [/quote]

Daves not here. [/quote]

It's Dave, let me in, I got the stuff! [/quote]

Thank you both for bringing some laughter into my morning. Gosh, how long has it been since I listened to "A Child's Garden of Grass."
PS: I think our age is showing.... I think I'll go sing in the shower now...

Note to admin: Off topic... but come one.. we're all talking about heating our homes with coal in an age where the focus seems to be on wind.. solar and global warming.. or is it the next ice age.... I get confused..

Geez... I was such an ass on this thread Sorry I got a bit bull headed about things. We all have our own perspectives on how things work and I'm sure that at least most if not all of them are right...

Edit - and Dr. Phil said its ok to agree to disagree..
So I took stock in that idea and let it be ok with me.

Lightning wrote:Geez... I was such an ass on this thread

The line forms right here!! :bag:

I'm baro free....and I feel Great!

Now...who has the bourbon?

U ,Guys are Greatest,LOL

If a stove is operating at a constant temperature and a barometric damper is allowed to work and lowers the draft through the stove, does the stove decrease in temperature?

If so, then do you have to open the air vents to increase the burn rate to increase the temperature?

Ctyankee wrote:If a stove is operating at a constant temperature and a barometric damper is allowed to work and lowers the draft through the stove, does the stove decrease in temperature?

If so, then do you have to open the air vents to increase the burn rate to increase the temperature?

A baro NEVER lowers the draft.

It can only maintain it at an even rate.

Even draft = even temp.

Ctyankee wrote:If a stove is operating at a constant temperature and a barometric damper is allowed to work and lowers the draft through the stove, does the stove decrease in temperature?

If so, then do you have to open the air vents to increase the burn rate to increase the temperature?

If the stove is seeing more draft that it needs your heat is going up the chimney. A baro will limit the draft and the stove will radiate what was going up the chimney into your home. The stove will be hotter, not cooler.

Ctyankee wrote:If a stove is operating at a constant temperature and a barometric damper is allowed to work and lowers the draft through the stove, does the stove decrease in temperature?

If so, then do you have to open the air vents to increase the burn rate to increase the temperature?

If the stove is maintaining a steady temperature, it implies that the baro is already doing it's job and is holding pressure steady.

But let's say the baro is clamped shut and the stove is steady at 500 degrees. It means your draft is maxed out and sitting steady at whatever pressure it got up to. Now, if you un clamp the baro it will weaken negative pressure (to the pressure it's set to limit it at) and the stove temp will fall till it levels out at it's new pressure..

Ctyankee wrote:If a stove is operating at a constant temperature and a barometric damper is allowed to work and lowers the draft through the stove, does the stove decrease in temperature?

If so, then do you have to open the air vents to increase the burn rate to increase the temperature?

Lightening replied:
If the stove is maintaining a steady temperature, it implies that the baro is already doing it's job and is holding pressure steady.

But let's say the baro is clamped shut and the stove is steady at 500 degrees. It means your draft is maxed out and sitting steady at whatever pressure it got up to. Now, if you un clamp the baro it will weaken negative pressure (to the pressure it's set to limit it at) and the stove temp will fall till it levels out at it's new pressure..

So then you would have to have to increase the air intake to get back up to the previous operating temperature at the new lower pressure... right?

I think Coaledsweat and I are seeing this a bit differently hahaha..

In my opinion, I'm right - if the stove (hand fed stove) is sealed well and the secondary air is being held at bay.. and he is right - if the stove is leaky (loose fitting gaskets around the load door or what have you) and has an abundant amount of unintended secondary air taking heat up the chimney...

I'm thinking he is also right when this applies to stoker furnaces or boilers..

Yes you would need to add primary air at the new weaker pressure to achieve 500 degrees again in the example I have.. I see the same thing happen when I close the MPD further.. Stove temp falls to the new weaker pressure. Never have I seen the stove temp go up when I close the MPD from an open position.. Which works against reasoning if you believe that a MPD "holds heat in a stove"...

What weaker pressure?

A baro can NEVER lower the draft.

McGiever wrote:What weaker pressure?

A baro can NEVER lower the draft.

I don't understand "can't lower draft".. If a chimney gets a draft of -.08 without a baro,, then you add one and it readjusts the pressure to -.04 isn't it lowering (weakening) the pressure as well as the draft?? Pressure and draft are related.. Wouldn't you say? Help me out here... I'm struggling to understand what yer getting at..

McGiever wrote:What weaker pressure?

A baro can NEVER lower the draft.

If you want to nit pick then yes, it bypasses the draft before reaching the stove which reduces draft through the stove. The cooler air though should reduce the chimney draft somewhat.

Not nit picking...there seems to be some confusion here...it matters little to the fire whats going on above the baro in the chimney.

The heat of a stove is generated in the fire pot and combustion chamber...not up above the baro or in the chimney.

The fluctuating draft/pressure above the baro is irrelevant to the combustion process when a baro is installed/operating.

The whole idea of the baro it to maintain an EVEN draft/pressure in the fire box.

The fire NEVER sees less draft than whatever the baro setting is...it just is not built to change the firebox draft...it changes the chimney draft only.

Point is you need not change any air setting to compensate for anything. And no weaker draft was ever effected in the fire...it was steady the entire time.