Flex Ash Auger
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- Member
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- Joined: Sun. Jan. 21, 2007 11:41 am
- Location: Dover, Delaware
- Stoker Coal Boiler: ahs s260 3
- Coal Size/Type: pea
Finally got around to making an ash auger.
I used a 3” flex auger for ash removal for 2 ahs260 boilers.
First tried with a 348rpm gear but it created some sort of harmonic vibration (over sized slinky going all wobbly in a pipe ). Switched to a 129rpm and all is well (have a 250rpm auger on another boiler working well also).
Auger runs on the ground between both boilers then 45dg up and out of building for a total length of about 18’.
I cut two 3x9 inch holes with 3 inch of pipe between per boiler for the ash to go into, auger busts up the clinkers and sends everything outside to a pile (will use a 55 gallon drum next season) Used sanitary tee for the drop outside.
It runs for 28 seconds at the start of an ashing cycle removing ash from previous cycle, either boiler can start auger via relays.
I have about $800 in auger components and another $100 in relay controls. Works pretty well but bridges maybe once a week when under heavy load (400 to 500 lbs coal per day per boiler), just need to poke with a stick.
All in all it saves me another daily chore
I used a 3” flex auger for ash removal for 2 ahs260 boilers.
First tried with a 348rpm gear but it created some sort of harmonic vibration (over sized slinky going all wobbly in a pipe ). Switched to a 129rpm and all is well (have a 250rpm auger on another boiler working well also).
Auger runs on the ground between both boilers then 45dg up and out of building for a total length of about 18’.
I cut two 3x9 inch holes with 3 inch of pipe between per boiler for the ash to go into, auger busts up the clinkers and sends everything outside to a pile (will use a 55 gallon drum next season) Used sanitary tee for the drop outside.
It runs for 28 seconds at the start of an ashing cycle removing ash from previous cycle, either boiler can start auger via relays.
I have about $800 in auger components and another $100 in relay controls. Works pretty well but bridges maybe once a week when under heavy load (400 to 500 lbs coal per day per boiler), just need to poke with a stick.
All in all it saves me another daily chore
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- Scottscoaled
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Hey! I like that. You can take your ashes away with a front end loader. Where did you get your parts?
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- Location: Dover, Delaware
- Stoker Coal Boiler: ahs s260 3
- Coal Size/Type: pea
Used Chore Time, but there othersScottscoaled wrote:Hey! I like that. You can take your ashes away with a front end loader. Where did you get your parts?
http://www.choretimepoultry.com/manuals.php
Randy
- lsayre
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I like it also! Do you use a similar system to bring pea size coal into the Coal Guns hoppers?
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Yes (no more hand loading ), I pull the coal from a bucket that is gravity fed from a grain wagon thru 4" pvc and use a hopper level switch to start and stop filling the boiler hopper (stuck a timer relay in between to turn off auger if any there are any issues/problems 2.25miniuts+-).lsayre wrote:I like it also! Do you use a similar system to bring pea size coal into the Coal Guns hoppers?
The components are the same, just pull instead of push and hole for coal entry is smaller than for ash (started with a 3"round but coal bridged, currently at 3x4 no bridging yet, but will problably go a little larger ).
I use two grain augers as well but they jam about weekly with the pea coal so will be changing them over to flex this summer.
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- Coal Size/Type: pea
Have not tried buck yet. It has not bridged since enlarging entry hole about a month ago, also coal was rather damp/wet when it was bridging. Its running smooth now but I will keep buck in mind for future.Rob R. wrote:Randy, have you ever tried buck size coal? It would be a little easier on the auger setup and might not bridge as easily.
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Update for ash auger.
I have had the ash auger in use for 1 year now, only problem is with bridging of clinkers.
The 3” ash auger bridged about weekly and I wanted to swap out my 2 screw feed augers with 3” flex due to jamming of the screws. So why not replace the 3” ash auger with a 4” (hopefully to lessen/eliminate bridging) and use the old 3” components for one of my feed augers. The bridging was no big deal but what the hey, figured id give the 4” a shot.
Kept the 129-rpm gear head, motor and controls, just replaced the pipe (4”dwv foam-core), auger and drive weldment for the larger size flex. The new pipe has larger 4” wide holes instead of 3”. New 4” cost $8.00 per foot compared to $4.00 for the 3”.
Was curious to see how the the pvc pipe was holding up and found one spot on the 45 with maybe 50% ware. Not bad after one year and 50t worth of ash removal. They sell a metal 45 for about double the price of plastic and when current 45 wares out I will likely change to that. The straight pipe had no visible ware any place I looked.
Been running the 4” for 2 months with no bridging yet. So far so good.
I have had the ash auger in use for 1 year now, only problem is with bridging of clinkers.
The 3” ash auger bridged about weekly and I wanted to swap out my 2 screw feed augers with 3” flex due to jamming of the screws. So why not replace the 3” ash auger with a 4” (hopefully to lessen/eliminate bridging) and use the old 3” components for one of my feed augers. The bridging was no big deal but what the hey, figured id give the 4” a shot.
Kept the 129-rpm gear head, motor and controls, just replaced the pipe (4”dwv foam-core), auger and drive weldment for the larger size flex. The new pipe has larger 4” wide holes instead of 3”. New 4” cost $8.00 per foot compared to $4.00 for the 3”.
Was curious to see how the the pvc pipe was holding up and found one spot on the 45 with maybe 50% ware. Not bad after one year and 50t worth of ash removal. They sell a metal 45 for about double the price of plastic and when current 45 wares out I will likely change to that. The straight pipe had no visible ware any place I looked.
Been running the 4” for 2 months with no bridging yet. So far so good.
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- plumberman
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quick question, looking to add ash auger this summer, would the flex auger be able to make bend in a 4" 90 pvc counduit sweep?? or is it closer to 50 acres to make turn?? thanks for any input
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- Coal Size/Type: pea
They are a 5' radius sweep sold in 45s. IIRC they want no more than one 90 per motor then you need to go to a two motor system (choretime has manuals). If you know an electrician with a large enough heat blanket they may be able to make the sweep with pvc conduit. Not sure if they can bend without some deformation of pipe tho. I have been doing all this via trial and error, so ymmv.plumberman wrote:quick question, looking to add ash auger this summer, would the flex auger be able to make bend in a 4" 90 pvc counduit sweep?? or is it closer to 50 acres to make turn?? thanks for any input
- McGiever
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No deformation if both ends of pipe are plugged before the heat is ever applied...as it will become pressurized by the heat.rwwsr wrote:They are a 5' radius sweep sold in 45s. IIRC they want no more than one 90 per motor then you need to go to a two motor system (choretime has manuals). If you know an electrician with a large enough heat blanket they may be able to make the sweep with pvc conduit. Not sure if they can bend without some deformation of pipe tho. I have been doing all this via trial and error, so ymmv.plumberman wrote:quick question, looking to add ash auger this summer, would the flex auger be able to make bend in a 4" 90 pvc counduit sweep?? or is it closer to 50 acres to make turn?? thanks for any input
A very, very large propane torch can take the place of the electric heat oven for the heating of the 4" PVC pipe.
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I have 8 of these in my hog barns. You need to find a piece of exhaust tube and put inside the auger. It eliminates the auger being over loaded. You also need to strecth the auger 2" for every 50' of length that will take the shake out of it. To make bends you need to make sure the pipe does not get egged while making. It is very hard to do this. Put plugs in both ends before heating so the air cant get out will help. I just buy mine. The exhaust tube only goes in the straight part under the boiler where the ash falls in just put a tack of weld in 1 spot to hold it in place.