That works -- no shipping. Can't mind that!
Well, I've been busy the last 2 days.........
I rewired all lighting on the bike: I ripped the instrument light harness out, along with all wiring that meets in the headlight housing. Then I removed all the corroded sockets replacing them with whatever good rust-free ones i found in the parts bike. If the wire colors didn't match, I took the correct color of shrink tubing & heated it over the mis-colored wire. Then I took all the good bulbs out of the donor bike & tossed the bad ones. Now all 9 sockets are 100% rust free & all instrument lighting works -- even the brake lamp indicator! Then I removed the bars, top triple clamp ( which was painted & baked @ 300* for 2 hours, then 350* for another 2 ), & blue/grey headlight housing/upper fork tube covers & replaced it with the donor bike's correct orange/red colored housing. It was because of this that I began rewiring every light, as I had to disconnect every single one inside the headlight housing anyway. After I got the housing on, I began to re-connect the 100+ wires that I removed from the housing, replacing any broken or corroded connectors as I went with original type factory connectors. Next up, I grabbed the gauges from the donor bike because they had all the correct covers on the back, & installed them into my instrument panel. I also had to glue on the metal face, which fell off when I removed the gauges. Without that, I wouldn't know which lights are what!
I used some Honda grip glue & 4 pairs of vice-grips to get it in correctly.
Then I swapped out the the mis-colored oil tank. I hit both the headlight housing & oil tank with some rubbing compound before installation for a nice shine. Because I had to remove the battery box & airbox to remove the oil tank, I then cut out every piece of wire that had layers of electrical tape & replaced them with my factory connectors. This was a perfect opportunity to check the synchronization of the slides. The left carb was just slightly ahead of the right, so I adjusted the cables until they were in lock-step. Then I bled the oil pump & checked the plunger clearance, which is on the tight side. Tomorrow I will see if the donor bike has the correct shims -- if not, I'll be fabricating some washers into shims!
After re-assembling the headlight & testing all my wiring, I noticed that the turnsignals were either staying lit constantly, or flashing very slowly, or just plain not working. It happened to have the ORIGINAL 35 year old relay!! They just don't make 'em like that anymore!Then I got curious (& sidetracked) & decided to disassemble the relay, which resembles a small beer can.
After removing the guts, I hooked it up to the battery to watch it in action. It was then when it became painfully clear that the wire in the base of the housing went to a capacitor! ZZZZAAP!! I GOT NAILED with 10,000 volts!!
Felt exactly like grounding the secondary leads on the coil! After being jolted back to reality, I grabbed a flasher relay I had kicking around from my last trip to the boneyard. I had to wrap about 5 layers of electrical tape around it to get it to fit snug in that old beer-can holder! Then I cut some lengths of wire & attached the correct connectors to hook up the new relay to the harness. Now all my lights are working & as bright as they were in 1974!
In between all this, I was polishing furiously.
Got the chrome fenders to come back, & the luster of the paint, in between the small dents, dings & rust spots that have accumulated after 3.5 decades of life.
Here's some pix: