Baro damper question

I have basically NO room for a baro damper but I was wondering if I cold mount it facing straight down?

My only stove pipe right now is a 90* elbow coming out the back or the stove and a round to oval adapter above that. If I replaced the elbow with a tee, then I could put the baro facing down. I have no idea how these things work, or even why I want one but there is so much talk of them here, I thought I might try. I sure as heck don't know anything but what is working for me right now. If I can do it better, I'd like to.

Thanks

Jeff

Hi Jeff, nope won't work unless the face is vertical.

Greg L

Can you replace the botton elbow with a tee, with the tee end facing up? Then install a cap on the rear facing end for cleanout purposes. Place another tee above that one with the tee end facing sideways, mount the baro in there, then adapt to your oval.
You only need a baro if the chimneys draft under a full fire is more then Harman states in the manual (.06 to 1.0" of WC). I run my Mark I at .05.

Depends on your chimney and draft, if You have a moderate draft, you may not even need one,

Baro's limit the draft out of your stove and maintain it when there are fluctuations in the wind, heat, cold, etc....it really won't hurt without one, but if you have a good draft, it can suck more heat out of the stove that you could use in the house, plus it reduces the temp of the exhaust up the chimney.

jeepers
I was just going to ask the question of do they make black stove pipe T's and
now my question is answered

Wood'nCoal wrote:Can you replace the botton elbow with a tee, with the tee end facing up? Then install a cap on the rear facing end for cleanout purposes. Place another tee above that one with the tee end facing sideways, mount the baro in there, then adapt to your oval.
You only need a baro if the chimneys draft under a full fire is more then Harman states in the manual (.06 to 1.0" of WC). I run my Mark I at .05.

I literally only have room for the elbow and the adapter. I have no idea what my draft is or even how to check it. I use a manual damper at the outlet of the stove. If I don't, I don't get ANY heat out of the stove. I know people run without them, but I tried it for a whole season and chewed up a bunch of coal without getting much heat. Once I put the damper in, the fire was very controllable and I can keep my house at darn near any temp I want it at.

Again, I don't want to start the whole debate again, I'm just saying what's working for me. If a baro was going to be somehow "better" I'd try to find a way to do it.

I wonder if it would work facing backwards?

I probably should post a picture to illustrate the limited amount of space I'm working with here. My stove is essentially an "insert" at this point. It's tucked right into the original fireplace. Not a whole lot of room behind or above it.

A baro only needs to be installed with the "flapper" side both plumb and level. It can face any direction that will allow the flapper to move as intended.

If the stovepipe has no room for a baro you can put it in the chimney itself. It is a bigger job, so I would get a handle on what the draft really is and if a baro is necessary before doing so.

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

Please post photos of your set up if possible.

Wood'nCoal wrote:Please post photos of your set up if possible.

Here's the pictures.


You can just about fit your hand between the pipe and the back wall of the fireplace


The metal plate blocks off where the original fireplace damper was. I didn't remove it but the previous owner had just flatened a piece or stove pipe until it fit. And he did not extend the pipe up to the roof, it just ended about a foot above the hole. I have no idea how he didn't kill himself and his family. With this setup, it just goes into the existing chimney. There is no pipe above that plate. I do have a chimney cap though.

Jpete--

Baro's are overrated in my opinion, especially with a Harman unit. Your hand damper on the ash pan door will control the draft with 95% effectiveness. Like WYN said, the best thing a baro will do for a Harman is slow the burn down in order you do not waste coal & its usable heat. Windy days it will aid in a consistent burn. This is the only time I find it of any use.

Keep your additional flue located hand damper open unless you are burning wood..

I foiled my Baro
They call me the anti-baro guy.

Cap wrote:Jpete--

Baro's are overrated in my opinion, especially with a Harman unit. Your hand damper on the ash pan door will control the draft with 95% effectiveness. Like WYN said, the best thing a baro will do for a Harman is slow the burn down in order you do not waste coal & its usable heat. Windy days it will aid in a consistent burn. This is the only time I find it of any use.

Keep your additional flue located hand damper open unless you are burning wood..

I foiled my Baro
They call me the anti-baro guy.

It just seems like I don't get much heat out of the stove when I run the damper open. I sometimes do that if I know people are coming over who might not appreciate the heat like I do.

A barometric damper will only prevent you from making more heat as it slows the draft in order to maintain consistency.. Try more air on the ash pan damper for more heat. 1.5 to 2 turns should be about right AFTER you have a good hot fire.

jpete wrote:

Wood'nCoal wrote:Please post photos of your set up if possible.

Here's the pictures.


You can just about fit your hand between the pipe and the back wall of the fireplace


The metal plate blocks off where the original fireplace damper was. I didn't remove it but the previous owner had just flatened a piece or stove pipe until it fit. And he did not extend the pipe up to the roof, it just ended about a foot above the hole. I have no idea how he didn't kill himself and his family. With this setup, it just goes into the existing chimney. There is no pipe above that plate. I do have a chimney cap though.

So the prior owner flattened a piece of stove pipe and shoved it through the open fireplace damper, it was open to room air around the pipe? Just wanted to make sure I understood you. Actually, some wood stove installs are done that way. My Fisher insert was designed to exhaust into the fireplace opening, no pipe attached. the exhaust just exited the stove and rose up to the fireplace damper and up the chimney. There was a deflector plate to shield the metal panel that blocked the rest of the fireplace opening. There is no pipe connection on the top of the stove. When the liner was installed a cast iron adapter was placed on top of the stove that created a collar for the liner to fit into. An open fireplace damper created a pretty good draft in the chimney, just because it's such a large opening. That's probably the only reason the previous owner didn't expire from CO poisoning. It's also a good way to suck all the heat out of your house. Before the liner, I had to remember to close the damper when the stove was out. Now, problem solved.

There really is no room to install a baro on your set-up. You can run the Manometer into the pipe just before the metal plate to test the draft. Just remember to set the manual damper fully open for an accurate test. If the flue size is more then 6 X 6 it may very well be pulling too much draft.

BTW, that manual damper was added to your Harman. They don't build them with manual dampers in the stove collar.