Wood'nCoal wrote:Can you replace the botton elbow with a tee, with the tee end facing up? Then install a cap on the rear facing end for cleanout purposes. Place another tee above that one with the tee end facing sideways, mount the baro in there, then adapt to your oval.
You only need a baro if the chimneys draft under a full fire is more then Harman states in the manual (.06 to 1.0" of WC). I run my Mark I at .05.
I literally only have room for the elbow and the adapter. I have no idea what my draft is or even how to check it. I use a manual damper at the outlet of the stove. If I don't, I don't get ANY heat out of the stove. I know people run without them, but I tried it for a whole season and chewed up a bunch of coal without getting much heat. Once I put the damper in, the fire was very controllable and I can keep my house at darn near any temp I want it at.
Again, I don't want to start the whole debate again, I'm just saying what's working for me. If a baro was going to be somehow "better" I'd try to find a way to do it.
I wonder if it would work facing backwards?
I probably should post a picture to illustrate the limited amount of space I'm working with here. My stove is essentially an "insert" at this point. It's tucked right into the original fireplace. Not a whole lot of room behind or above it.