Found It !! My 'Royal Bride' Restoration Thread
- Photog200
- Member
- Posts: 2063
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2013 7:11 pm
- Location: Fulton, NY
- Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
- Other Heating: Electric Baseboard
As you probably already know, brass will oxidize quickly and start to tarnish. One thing that might help to stop that is to top coat it with high temp clear gloss paint. Here is a link to some that someone else put up about a brand of high temp paint.
http://www.net4sale.com/Shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=127. Stove Bright paint also has a clear coat gloss high temp paint. It works good to bring a gloss back to dulled nickel too. Just a thought...
Randy
http://www.net4sale.com/Shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=127. Stove Bright paint also has a clear coat gloss high temp paint. It works good to bring a gloss back to dulled nickel too. Just a thought...
Randy
- Photog200
- Member
- Posts: 2063
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2013 7:11 pm
- Location: Fulton, NY
- Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
- Other Heating: Electric Baseboard
Another link to Thurmolox stove paint in clear gloss...
http://www.net4sale.com/Shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcat ... product=85
http://www.net4sale.com/Shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcat ... product=85
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- Location: You wouldn't believe me if I told ya! Virginville PA
Thanks for the link,
I will set up some type of polishing wheel and use it, before I do any more to the Finial. I know It can look alot better than it does now with just a touch more work.
There is a tiny bit of lead solder on one side of the main body where it was "repaired" at some point. That still needs to be removed.
The holes in the sides of the main body where the two pieces of scroll work mount needs some body work too. The holes are slightly stretched out and need to be adjusted a little tiny bit. Should pose no problem but still needs to be done.
I also need to make a new mounting bolt/stalk/holder downer thingamagig too. The original was to rusty to salvage. It was spring loaded like an old school hood ornimate so that is how I will replicate it.
Doug,
I have been in the building industry for the past 20 years. Mostly building custom homes during the work week. Prior to that I spent 4 years as an apprentice machinist in a small job shop.
My hobbies hinge around making things better than I found them. Power boat restoration and kit cars is where I learned about fiberglass and body work. Obviosly wood comes from my years as a carpenter. I also play with autos and restore and modify them too (Body, suspension, engines). That's where the need for welding comes from. I was given the chance to go to welding school by my current employer (I didn't learn to weld I just got certified).
Anytime I find some one who is an expert in thier craft, I try to learn as much as possible. Be humble and ask questions, most people, including myself, enjoy passing along tricks to someone who has a desire to learn.
Here is the last truck that I built
For 15 of the last twenty years I was self employed. I saw and still see anything that I create as a reflection of me and my name. Word of mouth has always treated me well, therfore I have always held my work and those I employed to the highest of standards.
I will set up some type of polishing wheel and use it, before I do any more to the Finial. I know It can look alot better than it does now with just a touch more work.
There is a tiny bit of lead solder on one side of the main body where it was "repaired" at some point. That still needs to be removed.
The holes in the sides of the main body where the two pieces of scroll work mount needs some body work too. The holes are slightly stretched out and need to be adjusted a little tiny bit. Should pose no problem but still needs to be done.
I also need to make a new mounting bolt/stalk/holder downer thingamagig too. The original was to rusty to salvage. It was spring loaded like an old school hood ornimate so that is how I will replicate it.
Doug,
I have been in the building industry for the past 20 years. Mostly building custom homes during the work week. Prior to that I spent 4 years as an apprentice machinist in a small job shop.
My hobbies hinge around making things better than I found them. Power boat restoration and kit cars is where I learned about fiberglass and body work. Obviosly wood comes from my years as a carpenter. I also play with autos and restore and modify them too (Body, suspension, engines). That's where the need for welding comes from. I was given the chance to go to welding school by my current employer (I didn't learn to weld I just got certified).
Anytime I find some one who is an expert in thier craft, I try to learn as much as possible. Be humble and ask questions, most people, including myself, enjoy passing along tricks to someone who has a desire to learn.
Here is the last truck that I built
For 15 of the last twenty years I was self employed. I saw and still see anything that I create as a reflection of me and my name. Word of mouth has always treated me well, therfore I have always held my work and those I employed to the highest of standards.
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- Location: You wouldn't believe me if I told ya! Virginville PA
Everything is now at the plating shop. I will see most of them in two weeks. The plated parts are going to be more along the lines of a month maybe a bit more.
I really think I caught a break finding a place that will do the nickel so close to home. I don't live in a big city, come to think of it I don't live in any city. We don't even have Police in my town. But... we do have a plating shop It's a mom and pop shop that's been around for 80+ years. Only one guy running the entire operation from start to finish.
He's going to blast all of the stove parts to give me a uniform surface to apply stove polish. I didn't give him all of the parts though, the grates and some other internal parts are still here. I didn't see much of a point in blasting these parts and I was running out of room in the truck. Amazing how much space this thing takes up when it's disassembled.
In the meantime I will finish the Fire Pot pattern and Get it to the local foundry.
Think it's time to make a new ash pan too. I have what looks to be the original but it looks a little beat. I want it to be as close to perfect as it can be. I mean I will be handling it daily and it should look as good as the stove.
CALLING NORTCAN: Nortcan do you have a picture of the shaker handle from your Golden? I am going to drop mine off to have it plated also. Only problem, someone took a grinder to the end of mine and made a mess of it. I want to clean it up in the mill to make it more uniform before plating. A picture of what it should look like will help a bunch.
I really think I caught a break finding a place that will do the nickel so close to home. I don't live in a big city, come to think of it I don't live in any city. We don't even have Police in my town. But... we do have a plating shop It's a mom and pop shop that's been around for 80+ years. Only one guy running the entire operation from start to finish.
He's going to blast all of the stove parts to give me a uniform surface to apply stove polish. I didn't give him all of the parts though, the grates and some other internal parts are still here. I didn't see much of a point in blasting these parts and I was running out of room in the truck. Amazing how much space this thing takes up when it's disassembled.
In the meantime I will finish the Fire Pot pattern and Get it to the local foundry.
Think it's time to make a new ash pan too. I have what looks to be the original but it looks a little beat. I want it to be as close to perfect as it can be. I mean I will be handling it daily and it should look as good as the stove.
CALLING NORTCAN: Nortcan do you have a picture of the shaker handle from your Golden? I am going to drop mine off to have it plated also. Only problem, someone took a grinder to the end of mine and made a mess of it. I want to clean it up in the mill to make it more uniform before plating. A picture of what it should look like will help a bunch.
- McGiever
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- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
I have 3 ash pans needing to be re-made here as well. Two are from over 100 years back and the other 25-30 years. I have 2 of the 3 originals for patterns.
I am fourtunate to know of a local sheet metal man who can fabricate them as an exact copy of the original.
`Wannabee`, If you need a source to have an ash pan fabbed let me know.
I am fourtunate to know of a local sheet metal man who can fabricate them as an exact copy of the original.
`Wannabee`, If you need a source to have an ash pan fabbed let me know.
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- Location: You wouldn't believe me if I told ya! Virginville PA
Nothing yet on the stove parts BUT...
I went to the flea market today with my beautiful bride and found this. Antique brass, English coal scuttle. I can't confirm it being "hammered" until after I polish it.
Figured I can clean it up and knock out the bumps and polish her up. I like the idea of using it to feed my new stove next season instead of the stamped steel one.
Best part is... IT ONLY SET ME BACK...$20
I went to the flea market today with my beautiful bride and found this. Antique brass, English coal scuttle. I can't confirm it being "hammered" until after I polish it.
Figured I can clean it up and knock out the bumps and polish her up. I like the idea of using it to feed my new stove next season instead of the stamped steel one.
Best part is... IT ONLY SET ME BACK...$20
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- Location: You wouldn't believe me if I told ya! Virginville PA
Made a mandrel for a buffing wheel I had laying around and threw her in the ol' South bend.
Then I got back to the finial. After a few minutes I ended up with this
The finial and one piece of scroll work is buffed
Here is the finished product complete with fingerprints and rubber bands to hold it together
What I started with
Then I got back to the finial. After a few minutes I ended up with this
The finial and one piece of scroll work is buffed
Here is the finished product complete with fingerprints and rubber bands to hold it together
What I started with
- wsherrick
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- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Everything seems to be going well. I am looking forward to seeing it all finished.
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- Location: You wouldn't believe me if I told ya! Virginville PA
Thanks, I don't think anyone wants to see this thing complete more than me.wsherrick wrote:Everything seems to be going well. I am looking forward to seeing it all finished.
Hey, whatever works right?dcrane wrote:thats the most elaborate buffin wheel ive ever seen ($2,000 buffer)
- LsFarm
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- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
I can't remember from the text, did you allow for the shrinkage of the iron when it cools?? I think it's about 8%.. your iron foundry can tell you for sure.
Your pattern needs to be slightly larger than the final product to be cast from it.
Greg L
Your pattern needs to be slightly larger than the final product to be cast from it.
Greg L
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It has been mentioned and I have done alot of reading in regards to shrinkage.
I'm more worried about thermal expansion at this point. A tight fitting FP in the stove might expand faster than the stove around it. You know what happens next.
Metal Percentage
Aluminium 6.6
Copper 4.9
Magnesium 4.0 or 4.2
Zinc 3.7 or 6.5
Low carbon steel 2.5–3.0
High carbon steel 4.0
White cast iron 4.0–5.5
Gray cast iron −2.5–1.6
Ductile cast iron −4.5–2.7
I'm more worried about thermal expansion at this point. A tight fitting FP in the stove might expand faster than the stove around it. You know what happens next.
Metal Percentage
Aluminium 6.6
Copper 4.9
Magnesium 4.0 or 4.2
Zinc 3.7 or 6.5
Low carbon steel 2.5–3.0
High carbon steel 4.0
White cast iron 4.0–5.5
Gray cast iron −2.5–1.6
Ductile cast iron −4.5–2.7
Last edited by Wanna Bee on Fri. Jun. 07, 2013 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.