Infloor Heat
- LsFarm
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I would NOT remove the transfer plates.. You will loose a ton of heat and efficiency.
I'd do your first option: run a full time pump at a lower temp.. There are ways to adjust the heat in the pex, but you have to do it smoothly and slowly..
Your noise is the pex expanding then contracting.. It is not easy to eliminate all the noise but a steady temp hot water that varies only a few degrees as the weather changes is the way to go.
In my staple up pex install, I took great pains to have the pex in straight lines and only bend when it went through the joists, so I do have a little noise, but only in the pass through spots in the joists.. I did add slip tubes or double tubes through the joists and for the most part it is quiet..
In my concrete 'suspended slab' [1.5" concrete on conventional wood floor/joists] I have the pump running 24/7 I adjust the heat to the slab with a secondary loop to add heat as required by the thermostat..
Greg L
I'd do your first option: run a full time pump at a lower temp.. There are ways to adjust the heat in the pex, but you have to do it smoothly and slowly..
Your noise is the pex expanding then contracting.. It is not easy to eliminate all the noise but a steady temp hot water that varies only a few degrees as the weather changes is the way to go.
In my staple up pex install, I took great pains to have the pex in straight lines and only bend when it went through the joists, so I do have a little noise, but only in the pass through spots in the joists.. I did add slip tubes or double tubes through the joists and for the most part it is quiet..
In my concrete 'suspended slab' [1.5" concrete on conventional wood floor/joists] I have the pump running 24/7 I adjust the heat to the slab with a secondary loop to add heat as required by the thermostat..
Greg L
- Flyer5
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Not entirely true. I run between 100 and 110. And my living room and downstairs bedroom is under carpet. All results may vary though.waldo lemieux wrote:cb5
If you lower the water temp in the underfloor loops to 100 you almost certainly wont get any heat out of it. When pex is in concrete you can do that because the pipe is all encased and therefore there is greater heat transfer. You might be able to get away with 140 degrees not sure.Im thinking you should remove the plates and staple up the pipe , it wont make any noise except where a 1/2 inch pipe goes through a 7/16 hole!
Best,
waldo
Dave
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Well I retract my previous statment. Field data always trumps theory and conjecture. Im amazed you'd get any heat even with tile over it. Ive never run it lower than 150 and Ive had to turn that up because of no heat complaint. Ive never used reflective insul either...
thanx for that info Dave.
Waldo
thanx for that info Dave.
Waldo
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I run 120 , the floor has pex and transfer plates stapled to the subfloor, makes noises for about a minute. I run 125 in concrete. Is the noise of the plates that bad?
- Sting
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While its is possible to advertise that an individual runs X or XX or even XXX temperature water in his individual infloor system
well anything is possible
the same could be said for the fellow who advertises that he runs his boiler at XXX regardless of degree day load
[ that's the same temperature 24/7/365 -- on 30 degree below nights with a wind -- or in the summer just to make domestic hot water]
This is really stupid
To operate correctly - standing boiler temperature and circulation temperatures must be varied by degree day load
- NOT ONLY to have the correct amount of heat energy available
but to- bring the correct amount of energy to the load
Get Off the Herkey Jerkey Temperature Swing {Benn Stone}
well anything is possible
the same could be said for the fellow who advertises that he runs his boiler at XXX regardless of degree day load
[ that's the same temperature 24/7/365 -- on 30 degree below nights with a wind -- or in the summer just to make domestic hot water]
This is really stupid
To operate correctly - standing boiler temperature and circulation temperatures must be varied by degree day load
- NOT ONLY to have the correct amount of heat energy available
but to- bring the correct amount of energy to the load
Get Off the Herkey Jerkey Temperature Swing {Benn Stone}
Thermal conductivitySting wrote:While its is possible to advertise that an individual runs X or XX or even XXX temperature water in his individual infloor system
well anything is possible
the same could be said for the fellow who advertises that he runs his boiler at XXX regardless of degree day load
[ that's the same temperature 24/7/365 -- on 30 degree below nights with a wind -- or in the summer just to make domestic hot water]
This is really stupid
To operate correctly - standing boiler temperature and circulation temperatures must be varied by degree day load
- NOT ONLY to have the correct amount of heat energy available
but to- bring the correct amount of energy to the load
Get Off the Herkey Jerkey Temperature Swing {Benn Stone}
The thermal conductivity, k, of a given isotropic material at given conditions, is the proportionality
constant defined by Fourier's law, q kT . For non-isotropic materials, k is no-longer a scalar
magnitude but a tensor
-
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Eyestein,
and the size of the rise is directly proportional to the angle of the dangle...... What are you the Riddler?
and the size of the rise is directly proportional to the angle of the dangle...... What are you the Riddler?
- Lightning
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No, no - Sting IS "The Riddler"waldo lemieux wrote:and the size of the rise is directly proportional to the angle of the dangle...... What are you the Riddler?
- Flyer5
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No need to retract it. Like I said it works in my case all mileage may vary.waldo lemieux wrote:Well I retract my previous statment. Field data always trumps theory and conjecture. Im amazed you'd get any heat even with tile over it. Ive never run it lower than 150 and Ive had to turn that up because of no heat complaint. Ive never used reflective insul either...
thanx for that info Dave.
Waldo