Axeman Anderson Lowest Operating BTU's

Hey fellas I know the engineering data but I would like to know what you guys would believe the lowest operating btuhs for a 260 without becoming an issue on firing and the max for a 130... I know these things like to run with their tongs hanging out. What do you think?

I would say the 260 will loaf along at about 60K loading, and the max for a 130 is easily 160K, perhaps up to 180K with very good coal. Both are extremely underrated....ask anyone who knows them, or has one.

That's what I have come to understand, I was once at a machine shop where there was a #4 American standard which may be capable of a million btuh with the setup I saw on an 8 hour fire and next to it was a 260 they fired when they felt like it. Both would heathen space with ease. My load for my shop and house are somewhere between a130 and 260. I would say I'm about 180k to 200k at 0 degrees with a stiff wind here on the mountain. I have a 130 not installed and I'm going to look at a260 that's why I'm asking. Any reason to stay away from a steam 260? Others than the obvious? I was wandering which boiler would be best under those conditions Thank you fellas!

I would Definitely go with the 260 if you are sticking to one boiler. At 180 to 200 MBTUH load, the AA130 will fall behind and not keep up. If you get less than perfect coal or if you have a need to heat up from unoccupied temperature, the AA130 will struggle too much.

Why are you looking at steam? If you have an existing steam system, it would be a consideration. If you don't, stick to hot water, it will be easier and cheaper to install. It will also be more fuel efficient if done right.

MoBe wrote:Hey fellas I know the engineering data but I would like to know what you guys would believe the lowest operating btuhs for a 260 without becoming an issue on firing and the max for a 130... I know these things like to run with their tongs hanging out. What do you think?

I have a 260, you would think way oversize for my 2200' house but it doesn't eat any more coal than my 80,000 BTU hand fired it replaced. It also isn't down for a day or two because the firebrick broke or the grates are munged up, just light it once. I don't know what your trying to figure out here but if your worried about sizing an Axeman, either one will work fine heating 98% of the homes in this country. Reliably and efficiently.
When idled, they are basically choked off and burn very little...... and it takes two days for it to die!

I'm with the other guys: More is LESS, all the way around. A steam 260 may be just fine, however you need to check it over well before you exchange cash. The damned things are bulletproof, and the concept. while unusual by industry standards, just plain works extremely well. It defies comparison, and is a testament to the bright folks who came up with the design. Lots of moving parts, and a true rebuild takes at least 80 hrs to be perfect.

If you have no further need of the 130, I know who wants one........I also know where there are 6-260's.

I am by no means wanting to install steam... The 260 I went to look at was on a steam system, I feel boilers that were on steam are way too unpredictable. At least with hydronic systems you need to worry about mechanics and the outside only... I think the boiler was a little high for the condition however if I wasn't worried about being on steam I would have bought it. My home and shop are all in floor radiant, the shop hardly ever runs from the radiant heat from the hand fired boiler and its extremely well insulated. The house alone is about 100,000btuh at 0 degrees. I know I'm torturing you guys just a lot of variables, I'm a pipe fitter by trade and I'm intrigued by everything heating and I tend to overdue everything because I can justify extra material by doing it myself. That and I like talking AA!!!

It will take some money to convert the steam unit to HW. The controls will have to be replaced and re-wired. You will probably have to deal with old pipe bushings or stubs that will have to be heated to be removed.

Also, steam systems can get more oxygen in the boiler and cause a lot of corrosion over the years if the system wasn't properly maintained, so it rots the boiler from the inside out. Look at it carefully. At a minimum you will need to flush the boiler out and pressure test it for leaks.

A quick note: I have a 1954 AA 130 that was a steam boiler until I converted it in 2012,........ and it tested perfectly at 50 psi for 72 hrs,; looks like new and performs as new right now.
The chemistry is the most important part, so please check the pH where you are using it and I always add boiler conditioner to every install. It is a good practice, no matter what you use to fire that boiler with.
I learned that was THE most important part of boiler operation when working with service people on commercial boilers.
'Lifetime' is not a joke when you are spending lots of cash, but poor chemistry can make for a damned short 'lifetime' for any appliance, heating of otherwise.

When I visit the local bio-fuel plants, ALL the operators say the 'chemist' is the REAL plant operator.
For all of those who didn't like studying the sciences in school, here is a down to earth, practical NEED to know/understand 'How things work'.

Being talented with your hands is a wonderful gift, and being able to mate that with using your brain, makes you a very important of society.

Just a thought......heck, most of us use the litmus strips to check our soils we grow in.....it starts right there......

Whistlenut you are a truwelth of knowledge as with a majority of people on this forum, and I appreciate listening to everyone's imput and reading about personal experiences. That's how I learn and I'm humbled by everyone. Whistle nut I will be in touch with you next week... Thank you for everyone's I put!!!

A poorly maintained hot water boiler can easily be in worse condition than an average steam boiler. It is all about keeping the system right and proper water chemistry.

Rob R. wrote:A poorly maintained hot water boiler can easily be in worse condition than an average steam boiler. It is all about keeping the system right and proper water chemistry.

Well said!

Mobe, I purchased a AA 260 that was set up for steam. Unlike you, I intended to set it up for steam, not hot water. Mine has worked out fine. I took it apart and refurbished it, but it really did not need much. What work I did do was more for getting it set up the particular way I wanted it, for instance, I did have a new hot water flange welded in. That was more for a new design style that Axeman has, not for any excessive rot. A cheap gasket would have sufficed but I felt like spending money! There are areas of the boilers that should be examined and you can do this with a good flashlight and some crawling around.

Here is a link to my AA260 thread. It is a bit lengthy but early on in it you will see some of the advice I received for properly checking out some critical areas.

New (to Me) Axeman 260

Good luck in your AA journey. It is well worth the investment.

First of all I cannot tell you how many times I checked out the pictures on that refurb and I have to tell you that you did an awesome job on the reverb!! I don't know if I could walk away, I would def be like you and have a nest I could rot in and just stare at that thing making heat! I will go back and read advice that you posted on what to look for and where! I have made the decision that I'm going to need a 260 to work with the setup I have unless I can find another 130 and run them in parallel... I will upload some pictures of what I'm firing now with soft coal or bit. I want to tinker with these AA, I think there amazing. I appreciate all the insight, and thank you for documenting the refers.... I'm sure it will help myself as we'll as many othe members because these aa are bulletproof!