Machinist Show Yourselves !

 
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carlherrnstein
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Post by carlherrnstein » Thu. Apr. 04, 2013 4:05 pm

dcrane wrote:"I agree! It's a lost art though! If you ask most people if they can sharpen drill bits they will say no. It was one of the first things I learned as a machinist in the Airforce . I sharpen brand new bits because I feel like they are shaper when I sharpen them than they are new! In fact I really pride myself In sharpening bits :) I am stilling usin the same set of bits that I use for stainless . I usually never have to buy drill bits.
OMG...I did the same thing when opening new bits the first thing i'd do is put my own taper on them and reduce the angle of the cutting edge (better then brand new and cut like a hot knife through butter) :P Thats funny to learn someone else did the same tricks I did when I was a kid (drill manufacturers must not have tested their bits to much or you think they would have realized what worked best :mad: )[/quote]

The thing is as im sure you allready know is you can increse the angle for faster cutting in soft material but if you have to have a lower angle for harder material so I figure they just factory grind them to cut everything halfway well.

Did you know if you sharpen one side a little more than the other it will cut oversized, that can be handy to know if you are making bushings that need a little bit of slop but you don't want to buy the correct ream.


 
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Ed.A
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Post by Ed.A » Thu. Apr. 04, 2013 7:32 pm

carlherrnstein wrote:[

Did you know if you sharpen one side a little more than the other it will cut oversized, that can be handy to know if you are making bushings that need a little bit of slop but you don't want to buy the correct ream.
Not to mention when you actually need to drill a hole in Nickel Aluminum Bronze, the expansion rate will seize the drill in no time if you don't use a grind off side.

While I still sharpen by hand, most times I need an accurate hole size and hand grinding and testing just takes too much time, personally I like my Drill Doctor. Grinds 118* to 135* and split points nicely and cuts to size everytime.

 
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Flyer5
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Post by Flyer5 » Thu. Apr. 04, 2013 8:27 pm

Flyer5 wrote:
SMITTY wrote: MAN! I would love to have a drill bit do half of what that one is doing! Would take me half an hour & lots of swearing to drill ONE hole through that ...

I can never find decent drill bits that last. :mad:
I tried a lot of different bits. The ones we are using work the best. I will let you know tomorrow the brand. Of course made in USA.
Here is what we use. They work well. http://vikingdrill.com/240-UB.html

 
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Post by samhill » Fri. Apr. 05, 2013 11:07 am

I believe that Viking was where I always got my sheeters bits & they seems to last longer cutting into rusted angle iron than any other.

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Fri. Apr. 05, 2013 6:32 pm

Ed.A wrote:
carlherrnstein wrote:[

Did you know if you sharpen one side a little more than the other it will cut oversized, that can be handy to know if you are making bushings that need a little bit of slop but you don't want to buy the correct ream.
Not to mention when you actually need to drill a hole in Nickel Aluminum Bronze, the expansion rate will seize the drill in no time if you don't use a grind off side.

While I still sharpen by hand, most times I need an accurate hole size and hand grinding and testing just takes too much time, personally I like my Drill Doctor. Grinds 118* to 135* and split points nicely and cuts to size everytime.
Too much time!!?? I can sharpen 10 drill bits faster and better than any drill doctor! I hate those machines. My Forman and I argue all the time about that. But when it comes to it my coworkers trust my sharpening over the Forman using the drill doctor! :D

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Fri. Apr. 05, 2013 6:38 pm

dcrane wrote:@Smokyja ... That Anvil must have cost a pretty penny :shock: I want to get a quality Wilton Vise and quality Anvil like that but the prices I see are ridiculous :mad:
That Anvil is worth a lot of money bro! :clap:
I didn't buy it. A friend of mine who is a full time blacksmith is lending it to me for the next couple of years . He moved to another state and has no need for it right now because his employer has better ones lol. But yes it is expensive . It's a kohlswa !

He went to work for the owner of this company:
http://bigbluhammer.com/blu-max-110

Which btw I'm going to be saving up for that power hammer!

 
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Post by dcrane » Fri. Apr. 05, 2013 7:34 pm

Smokeyja wrote:
dcrane wrote:@Smokyja ... That Anvil must have cost a pretty penny :shock: I want to get a quality Wilton Vise and quality Anvil like that but the prices I see are ridiculous :mad:
That Anvil is worth a lot of money bro! :clap:
I didn't buy it. A friend of mine who is a full time blacksmith is lending it to me for the next couple of years . He moved to another state and has no need for it right now because his employer has better ones lol. But yes it is expensive . It's a kohlswa !

He went to work for the owner of this company:
http://bigbluhammer.com/blu-max-110

Which btw I'm going to be saving up for that power hammer!
well I want one of those Kawalski thingies too! :mad:


 
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Post by Ed.A » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 8:12 am

Smokeyja wrote:
Ed.A wrote:
Hehe, they need you or a "foreman" to sharpen their drills? That's funny. As far as the Drill Doctor, to each his own. I find it quick and accurate. If I'm just rough drilling I grind by hand and keep going, but if I don't want to risk going over +.005 I trust what doesn't allow for human error..ie: eyeballing.

 
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Post by Smokeyja » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 8:15 am

Well I got the mill and the new tool I bought in the garage! I used the bobcat with the forklift attachments the entire way. A few things I decided to do while setting up the mill. First the original moor was removed which was a 3 phase "pancake" 1hp motor. It was replaced by someone previously with a 1/2hp single phase motor. It worked but my cross feed and slotter are nth 3 phase motors. My plan is to rewire the machine in its own electrical box how it would have been originally so in order to do that I need all 3 phase motors. It just so happens the seller had a 1hp pancake motor from a Bridgeport that he said I could have! It's the exact motor that would have sat on top of my Cincinnati . So I have that motor to swap this week. I went a head and ordered a phase converter from him that will run my entire shop. He will have it ready in a week for me.

Seeing how I will be running 3 phase equipment now , I bought another 3 phase antique! A pedestal grinder but its meant for tooling of some sort. Anyways it's a beast war time grinder ! This forum has always been weird with horizontal photos on photobucket so ill post a direct link below each photo:

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http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... 559FA7.jpg
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http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... 6510E9.jpg
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My Dad and my little boy checking out what I brought home! My Dad was a super big help coming with me to pick these up!
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http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... 4A7D73.jpg
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http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... DB8CB5.jpg
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I don't actually know the proper name for this grinder setup but its made by Gallmeyer & Livingston so any of y'all with info, I'm open to hearing :)
Image
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... 62CB6F.jpg
Style no. 2 M Serial No. 57
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http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... EC7D66.jpg
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http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... 772705.jpg

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 8:26 am

Ed.A wrote:
Smokeyja wrote:
Hehe, they need you or a "foreman" to sharpen their drills? That's funny. As far as the Drill Doctor, to each his own. I find it quick and accurate. If I'm just rough drilling I grind by hand and keep going, but if I don't want to risk going over +.005 I trust what doesn't allow for human error..ie: eyeballing.
I was just poking fun ;) I have used the drill doctor in the AF before for certain applications . Currently the tolerances aren't that critical where I work so the drill doctor is really a waste of time and effort in our shop. Can you believe that I am the only person in my company that can sharpen drill bits by hand? I am senior or lead fabricator and detailer at my shop and our Forman is an idiot lol. They are all "rail guys" it's the only thing they have ever done as far as metal work goes. So previously being a machinist and welder for the airforce , then a ironworker , then a sheetmetal mechanic I consider myself a metal fabricator so these rail guys have limited brain power and experience it seems. Now that I'm back into machinist I might have to pick up a drill doctor for tolerance sake although this new giant grinder I got is supposed to sharpen bits to tolerance as well. I'm not sure yet.

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 8:59 am

Smokeyja wrote:Well I got the mill and the new tool I bought in the garage! I used the bobcat with the forklift attachments the entire way. A few things I decided to do while setting up the mill. First the original moor was removed which was a 3 phase "pancake" 1hp motor. It was replaced by someone previously with a 1/2hp single phase motor. It worked but my cross feed and slotter are nth 3 phase motors. My plan is to rewire the machine in its own electrical box how it would have been originally so in order to do that I need all 3 phase motors. It just so happens the seller had a 1hp pancake motor from a Bridgeport that he said I could have! It's the exact motor that would have sat on top of my Cincinnati . So I have that motor to swap this week. I went a head and ordered a phase converter from him that will run my entire shop. He will have it ready in a week for me.

Seeing how I will be running 3 phase equipment now , I bought another 3 phase antique! A pedestal grinder but its meant for tooling of some sort. Anyways it's a beast war time grinder ! This forum has always been weird with horizontal photos on photobucket so ill post a direct link below each photo:

Style no. 2 M Serial No. 57
The more 3 phase motors you have running the cleaner the power will be when running the phase generator. Are you getting a rotary phase generator or a electronic?

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 9:15 am

Flyer5 wrote:
Smokeyja wrote:Well I got the mill and the new tool I bought in the garage! I used the bobcat with the forklift attachments the entire way. A few things I decided to do while setting up the mill. First the original moor was removed which was a 3 phase "pancake" 1hp motor. It was replaced by someone previously with a 1/2hp single phase motor. It worked but my cross feed and slotter are nth 3 phase motors. My plan is to rewire the machine in its own electrical box how it would have been originally so in order to do that I need all 3 phase motors. It just so happens the seller had a 1hp pancake motor from a Bridgeport that he said I could have! It's the exact motor that would have sat on top of my Cincinnati . So I have that motor to swap this week. I went a head and ordered a phase converter from him that will run my entire shop. He will have it ready in a week for me.

Seeing how I will be running 3 phase equipment now , I bought another 3 phase antique! A pedestal grinder but its meant for tooling of some sort. Anyways it's a beast war time grinder ! This forum has always been weird with horizontal photos on photobucket so ill post a direct link below each photo:

Style no. 2 M Serial No. 57
The more 3 phase motors you have running the cleaner the power will be when running the phase generator. Are you getting a rotary phase generator or a electronic?
Rotary phase generator is what I'm getting. I believe the electric version is called a frequency drive correct? And I have been told that frequency drives can only run one 3 phase motor at a time. I would need to run at least two at the same time. Three phase machines are a lot cheaper too! I just picked up thy giant grinder for $50 ! I am sure will come back with a few more machines here soon lol.

Here is who I'm getting it from http://www.dempseyandco.com/phase_converters.htm

 
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Post by jpete » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 9:36 am

Smokeyja wrote: I agree! It's a lost art though! If you ask most people if they can sharpen drill bits they will say no. It was one of the first things I learned as a machinist in the Airforce . I sharpen brand new bits because I feel like they are shaper when I sharpen them than they are new! In fact I really pride myself In sharpening bits :) I am stilling usin the same set of bits that I use for stainless . I usually never have to buy drill bits.
One of the first things I was taught is that drills don't make accurate holes! That's what reamers are for! :D

I used to be able to sharpen my own drills and make lathe bits from scratch but ten years in a shop where money was no object kind of killed my skills.

If it was a common drill, they'd rather see you just get a new one from the crib than waste time at the grinder. Usually, the wheel on the grinder looked like it had been through a war anyway so making a decent edge on a drill was impossible.

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 9:39 am

Smokeyja wrote:
Flyer5 wrote: The more 3 phase motors you have running the cleaner the power will be when running the phase generator. Are you getting a rotary phase generator or a electronic?
Rotary phase generator is what I'm getting. I believe the electric version is called a frequency drive correct? And I have been told that frequency drives can only run one 3 phase motor at a time. I would need to run at least two at the same time. Three phase machines are a lot cheaper too! I just picked up thy giant grinder for $50 ! I am sure will come back with a few more machines here soon lol.

Here is who I'm getting it from http://www.dempseyandco.com/phase_converters.htm
Rotary is the better. The newer frequency drives have come a long way. You got what you need you will be happy. :up:

 
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Post by Smokeyja » Sun. Apr. 07, 2013 7:51 pm

I have concern though. On the chart it shows that a 2hp motor used as a converter will allow a full amp load of 6.8 .
The head motor I'm putting on will take 3.7amps and running the cross feed motor that runs 1.3amps that would bring me to a max draw of 5amps while just running the mill. So if I where to put an old compressor or any other machine that leaves me with only 1.8amps to draw on 3 phase if that. Am I reading into this right? I don't mind paying more . I just didn't know much about them but that's what he had said I needed and said I could run my shop on that. I'm thinking maybe I should step up to a 5hp . What are some of y'all's opinions?


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