Rust Inhibitor After Spring Cleanout

 
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MarkV
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Post by MarkV » Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 9:02 pm

I was reading through the spring cleanout threads in the "best topics" forum. Several posters recommended the LPS-3 product, others said they use Pam cooking spray, for coating the inside of the stove after cleanout.

Anyone know if fogging oil would be good to use for this? I have a can of this I bought awhile back for my small engines when putting them into storage. I'm not sure where to buy the LPS 3 stuff around here, other than Grainger, which is a bit of a hike for me.


 
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dcrane
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Post by dcrane » Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 9:34 pm

Pam works fine and I like the idea of not spraying anything that resembles PB Blaster inside my liv. room.

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 9:54 pm

LPS-3 is top-notch when it comes to corrosion protection. It's very expensive, but you get what you pay for. I bought it off Amazon last time - about $13 a can. You can get it in bulk for cheaper and just fill up a spray container and pump away manually.

Pam would be useless in my basement ... but if your stove is in a dry location, then it may work. Might as well give it a shot.

 
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009to090
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Post by 009to090 » Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 10:25 pm

I have used LPS-3. Works great. I have also cleaned the stove out and put a 15 watt light bulb in it, then sealed intake and exhaust. This worked better.
Last edited by 009to090 on Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 10:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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jpete
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Post by jpete » Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 10:48 pm

I still don't understand this whole winterizing(summerizing?) procedure.

 
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2001Sierra
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Post by 2001Sierra » Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 11:22 pm

jpete wrote:I still don't understand this whole winterizing(summerizing?) procedure.
Corrosion happens! On a quiet nite you can hear your steel coal stove rust. LPS-3 rules, my 2001 Sierra is living proof, I am one of the few that still has rocker panels with no rust out thanks to LP

 
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2001Sierra
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Post by 2001Sierra » Wed. Apr. 17, 2013 11:23 pm

jpete wrote:I still don't understand this whole winterizing(summerizing?) procedure.
Corrosion happens! On a quiet nite you can hear your steel coal stove rust. LPS-3 rules, my 2001 Sierra is living proof, I am one of the few that still has rocker panels with no rust out thanks to LPS-3.


 
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Beeman
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Post by Beeman » Thu. Apr. 18, 2013 5:39 am

Ashcat and I have been using Cortec for several years as rust inhibitor--works very well, you can hold the can in any position to spray, no odor, etc. One can does the whole job on parts removed from stove, then spraying inside of stove.

http://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-EcoAir-VpCI-33 ... 48C28.aspx

 
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Keepaeyeonit
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Post by Keepaeyeonit » Thu. Apr. 18, 2013 5:51 am

Beeman I second that,369 thinned with 325 and I use a brush to apply works real well.Keepaeyeonit

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Apr. 18, 2013 6:56 am

I've also read about a product called fluid film. I may try putting some in a Wagner airless spray gun to shoot the whole inside cavity of the fire box and also the flue pipes.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Apr. 18, 2013 7:23 am

I have great chimney draft on my set up. I take my black pipe apart inside & use a 6" pipe brush--then I go up to my double wall & do the same---16'---pull all my fire brick & shop vac the tears out of the old girl---I have been using WD40 for the past 6 seasons without any odor in the house & have seen no signs of rust anywhere. I keep my MPD 2/3 closed all off season to keep critters/birds out of the old Hitzer--like I said, my chimney has outstanding draw. I'll probably replace 2 & 1/3 pieces of inside black pipe this year --it's been 5 seasons & it's not all that expensive:) My MPD is totally closed in season & I see very little ash above it--another reason I prefer the MPD on this particular set up. KISS

 
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carlherrnstein
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Post by carlherrnstein » Thu. Apr. 18, 2013 3:19 pm

Aww, just vac it out and call it done, youll be lighting a fire in it in september or october anyway. Its not like your storing it for years underwater.

 
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jpete
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Post by jpete » Thu. Apr. 18, 2013 9:40 pm

2001Sierra wrote:
jpete wrote:I still don't understand this whole winterizing(summerizing?) procedure.
Corrosion happens! On a quiet nite you can hear your steel coal stove rust. LPS-3 rules, my 2001 Sierra is living proof, I am one of the few that still has rocker panels with no rust out thanks to LPS-3.
But I don't leave my stove out in the driveway all year or drive it to work in the winter. :)

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Thu. Apr. 18, 2013 10:16 pm

carlherrnstein wrote:Aww, just vac it out and call it done, youll be lighting a fire in it in september or october anyway. Its not like your storing it for years underwater.
I tried that once. My stainless steel connector pipe had holes in it from one end to the next!

My basement tends to get a little moist on occasion ....

 
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Post by stovepipemike » Fri. Apr. 19, 2013 8:01 am

This is my method.Allow the boiler to come to ambient temperature.Isolate the boiler from the chimney to eliminate any source of air migration thru the interior bare metal surfaces.Close up the unit wherever there are openings.Clean the coal combustion deposits off the interior using electric oscillating tool [can accommodate various sanders,scrapers etc]. I use the scraper attachment to get under those cementlike deposits.I always wear gloves and make very sure to never let that operating tool slip loose when working in tight quarters!! I try to get the steel as smooth as possible without abrading the surface.I try not to scratch the surface since that would represent another area where deposits could "grip" that surface.I vacuum everything. I plug in my small lite bulb fixture,it is only 25 watts or the like and know that this unit will rest easy and dry until the "fall directive" comes my way. Not a lot of work when I consider the cost of a replacement boiler. It works well for me and no spray is required. Mike


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