Ah yes... The steel would get soft at those temps I did consider two pieces... A top and bottom may not be practical. Not sure how I would stabilize two sides either, unless maybe they would bind up sitting in the "V" shape from gravity.. Not sure I understand the divider idea ..... Maybe you could elaboratefranco b wrote:You could also consider casting in two pieces with a thin steel divider down the middle when casting. If you do that be sure to grease the divider for easy removal. Each half will be stronger. The divider could be inserted after pouring and striking off so it need not have any fastening.
End of Season Clean Out - Rear Liner Burn Thru Clayton
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I would divide vertically. You would not even need a divider, just let set up for a half hour or so and then divide with a thin knife with a straight edge laid on the form as a guide. Two bricks 10 wide by 9 high which would be more stable than one 20 inch wide. A little furnace cement on the back plus the pressure of the coal will hold in place.Lightning wrote:I did consider two pieces... A top and bottom may not be practical. Not sure how I would stabilize two sides either, unless maybe they would bind up sitting in the "V" shape from gravity.. Not sure I understand the divider idea ..... Maybe you could elaborate
Keep the mix on the dry side rather than too soupy which will weaken it. Trowel it into the form and then strike it off level with the form sides just like making a sidewalk. Oil the form to prevent sticking. If the sides of the form are screwed down it will make removal easy.The style of form is with the large dimension open.
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I have a somewhat set up like your furnace has.On the back of my boiler I have 1" fire brick instead of your metal back plate.
Pic #1- shows the complete set up
#2 shows metal tabs(hard to see with the LPS-3 coating) welded on the firebox to hold the row of firebricks that is connected together with a metal channel witch sets on top of them and inserted into the tabs to hold abainst the firebox.On your furnace,Id place a metal channel ontop of the firebricks to hold them together,then lay your side firebricks up against them.With your 100 lbs. of coal holding the bottoms of the bricks they should stay put.
#3- shows the angled refactory firebrick that are on the sides of my boiler witch makes the sloped sides(my boiler has a square firebox,instead of your sloped firebox)
Pic #1- shows the complete set up
#2 shows metal tabs(hard to see with the LPS-3 coating) welded on the firebox to hold the row of firebricks that is connected together with a metal channel witch sets on top of them and inserted into the tabs to hold abainst the firebox.On your furnace,Id place a metal channel ontop of the firebricks to hold them together,then lay your side firebricks up against them.With your 100 lbs. of coal holding the bottoms of the bricks they should stay put.
#3- shows the angled refactory firebrick that are on the sides of my boiler witch makes the sloped sides(my boiler has a square firebox,instead of your sloped firebox)
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make the metal channel real loose for expansion/warpage/twisting as not to break the firebricksLightning wrote:Yeah that metal channel on top may be just the ticket cool!!
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I ended up getting a 12.5 pound bucket of Rutland cement and this morning I made a mold and poured it in
First I made a stencil out of card board.
This is it in the back of the furnace. Next I made a mold out of a board with a sheet of metal over it and screwed down pieces of 2x4 for the sides. This is the rear liner I burned thru above the mold. I added a little piece on the bottom of the mold where the grate frame fits in underneath it. I oiled up the mold good and poured it in.. I'll give it a few days before I attempt unbolting the 2x4s to get it out. Should I bake it before subjecting it to the searing heat of the coal fire? Any other advise also welcome
First I made a stencil out of card board.
This is it in the back of the furnace. Next I made a mold out of a board with a sheet of metal over it and screwed down pieces of 2x4 for the sides. This is the rear liner I burned thru above the mold. I added a little piece on the bottom of the mold where the grate frame fits in underneath it. I oiled up the mold good and poured it in.. I'll give it a few days before I attempt unbolting the 2x4s to get it out. Should I bake it before subjecting it to the searing heat of the coal fire? Any other advise also welcome
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Wow, I got brave and decided to take the new cast out of the mold. It didn't stick at all! The motor oil did a fine job .. I had to lightly tap the bottom molding piece out since it was wedged in slightly, that was nerve wracking.. But it fits great!! I'm very pleased so far
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Thanksfranco b wrote:Great job. Are the side bricks your casting too?
No, the side bricks are just yer standard 9" x 4-1/2" x 1-1/4" rutland firebricks. Since my casted piece is 1.5 inches thick I'll need to trim one of the side bricks to get the row to fit (6 bricks on each side). The original rear liner was only about .75 of an inch thick where the side bricks met it in the corner.
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Thanks Kevin! I'm happy the pics may help you find a way to accomplish your project. FantasticKLook wrote:That looks great! You have given me the picture show for how to pour my own fireback in a fireplace. Hope it works as planned for you.
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Could anyone advise me if I should bake the new casted liner/brick at a lower temperature before subjecting it to a couple thousand degrees?
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Do you think 450 degrees for a few hours would do the trick?franco b wrote:I would. Any moisture turning to steam could make the casting spall.