How do I level and plumb a barometric damper?

Hi people!

I was wondering if anyone can tell me how to plumb a barometric damper?

I am operating an alaska cola stove, channing III

After reading through these posts and having a friend tell me that he thinks my damper is opened too far, I began to wonder if I am doing something incorrect.

I am totally clueless as to how u plumb a damper.

The stove has an alaska power vent. Damper is located before first and only elbow..directly above stove top...

Its set on the lowest setting, which I guess is .02.
However, if I were to estimate I would say that the damper opens inward to the pipe at least 3/4 inch most of the times.

I just began operating the stove last night.

Also, I dont tink my coal is burning properly. I noticed some unburnt coal in the ash pan.
It burns rice.

Thanks for any info, guys, gals.

You can participate in the manometer loaner program if you would like to check the draft.

Manometer Loaner Program

As GAW said getting the damper level is only part of the process, you really do need to check the draft. Also you need to make sure you are getting enough combustion air up through the coal, unburned coal can be an indicator of not enough air. Or it could be the coal, where in Mt. Carmel are you getting it?

Keep us posted on your progress.

ladyofthelake wrote:Its set on the lowest setting, which I guess is .02.
However, if I were to estimate I would say that the damper opens inward to the pipe at least 3/4 inch most of the times.

Also, I dont tink my coal is burning properly. I noticed some unburnt coal in the ash pan.
It burns rice.

.02 is low, but if your warm enough it should be OK with a stoker. When it starts to open, the baro is doing its job to keep the draft at the point you have set it at. The harder the chimney pulls, the more it will open.

Some unburned coal is common in stokers, if it is a very small amount I wouldn't worry about it. Why not post a pic of your ash and someone with a similar unit can comment on it whether it is fine or an excessive amount.

I found it easier to make the baro plumb using a plumb-bob. Basically a weight on the end of a string, hang it in front of the damper and the string will be perfectly plumb (straight up and down) unless gravity is on vacation. It takes some patience with a level but the more level the damper is the better it will work. Mine is "good enough" and it holds the draft exactly where I set it with a manometer. Basically the more level you can get it the better but if it's close it will do it's job, no need for a laser leveler.

I posted the question for my son who just bought a channingIII..alaska.
Thank you for the replys. I will pass it onto him.

Me I have been operating a coal stove for too many years...lol..

However, his is not hand fired, nor is my new channing.

My coal comes from mt carmel. It has an excellent burn.

He lives in lehigh valley and I believe his coal is coming from south tamaqua mines.
His stove has an SWG vent system. I have a direct vent.

I love my stove...so far. I have a very small home, 1000 sq ft. I set the burn controller at 1 to 2...and It darn near roasts me out of here.
Plus I have cathedrahl ceiling and the room upstairs is very comfortable.

His home is an old victorian. Rooms are not opened, but his salvation is the staircase is...
He installed 1 floor register so far and what a difference. His heat was trapped in the basement, even though he had taken off the cellar door.
However, the damper concerns me. My older stove a colebrookedale hand fired had a barometric damper. In all the 15 years I operated it, I never once had to touch the damper to reset it.
His door stays open at least 3/4 to 1inch...
Anyhow, I will pass this on.
Thanks again...
Prior to buying this stove I was heating with propane. Two years ago, I called it quits and got teh channing. Cost for heating yearly are approx 400-500 a year:)! My heating season here normally begins in late oct becuz I live on a lake front...