Case VAC, No Oil Pressure

 
coalnewbie
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Post by coalnewbie » Mon. Jun. 03, 2013 11:49 am

Sounds like you already used a gasoline additive for a cleaner!! And it didn't help much did it!
Thx to medicine man I tried his stuff and not Seafoam and Mysteriously the lifter noise diminished and the engine sure sounded better with no extra leaks yet. It did not run long with gas in the engine so I don't know as even I spotted that issue. Once I dump the Chinese oil gauge and try something US we will see. I am hoping for no more than a plugged oil screen based on the c rap that came out of the engine with a MMO wash, but I don't get lucky very often in life so we will see. Right now defecating time is at a premium never alone fixing my baby. Lousy, cheap carb. design. Perhaps changing to a MS will help, does anybody have a number?


 
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wilder11354
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Post by wilder11354 » Mon. Jun. 03, 2013 8:34 pm

coalnewbie wrote:
one thing I don't care for is screen in sump for filtering oil
... and I think that is a problem for me as I think it is partially blocked. So sump off one day soon when I have the time. My clutch is at then end of it's life too so all these things are in it's future. Legendary machine. The eagle hitch has a sensitivity that is is unique in the application shown as it's all done without expensive to fix hydraulics. You have inspired me, I need to give this unit a little more TLC.
I split my engine off to do clutch, because the rear main seal leak, rear main seal is odd bolt setup, several bolts to hold rear main seal plate in come from inside oil/sump side of block others are external under flywheel. theres aluminum crush washers for internal bolts to seal them. I didn't have new ones so I to put O-rings under aluminum washers I had for internal bolts, and plenty of red loctite. No leaks when done.

 
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wilder11354
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Post by wilder11354 » Mon. Jun. 03, 2013 8:35 pm

coalnewbie wrote:
one thing I don't care for is screen in sump for filtering oil
... and I think that is a problem for me as I think it is partially blocked. So sump off one day soon when I have the time. My clutch is at then end of it's life too so all these things are in it's future. Legendary machine. The eagle hitch has a sensitivity that is is unique in the application shown as it's all done without expensive to fix hydraulics. You have inspired me, I need to give this unit a little more TLC.
I split my engine off to do clutch, because the rear main seal leak, rear main seal is odd bolt setup, several bolts to hold rear main seal plate in come from inside oil/sump side of block others are external under flywheel. theres aluminum crush washers for internal bolts to seal them. I didn't have new ones so I to put O-rings under aluminum washers I had for internal bolts, and plenty of red loctite. No leaks when done.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Jun. 04, 2013 11:27 am

Time to get out & bush-hog the upper pasture but figured I'd post some pix--1947 8N--pampered with MMO & one 5' 1950 something JD bush-hog--past the gear oil stage & have progressed to straight grease-- :clap: toothy ---callin for serious rain Thurs, Fri & Sat--guess I'd best get motivated, just sayin ;) After that---time to mow around the house again--WTF--just did it last Fri & Sat--gas at $3.67 local---that sux

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coalnewbie
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 2:55 am

Picture not looking so good now.

TSC oil gauge is a drop in replacement and bingo started it up and bingo 17psi instantly when cold. :) When hot it drops to about zero :sick: So I guess that gas sloshing around in the oil killed it after all - bearings shot. Zeniths are a POS, MS are better. That will teach me to shut off the fuel each time but boy life's lessons get expensive. Lifters real noisy and it runs like $hit but that could just be the points that are looking suspect.

Attached my old old 4' squealer and had a cr ap ppy mowing session...sigh... my baby :cry: The Palmer Arena Groomer is just a pull along but when I added a need for real power ..... big f a I l. Actually failure on two fronts, no tractor power and I rediscovered what happens when are heading to a fence you just fixed but forgot to attach the overrun clutch but no damage to the tractor luckily, the fence is another story.

Now what??? Does anyone need a boat anchor. The good news is Squealers are awesome. How do I fix with little money and 22 mins a day to spare before falling asleep exhausted with my face in my dinner. Old age sux, golden years my a$$ but I guess the alternative is worse. My chiropractor was sympathetic as he tried to unpretzel my back - "stop whining and get back to work", his bedside manners could use a little improvement. Walk away from the physical life now and you will be dead in 2-5 years he said, I can fix anything but atrophy. So how come that did not make me feel better?

BTW Fred that 5' is a perfect fit for your machine - nice ride. I didn't even know Deere ever made a 5 footer.

 
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Post by Sting » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 7:57 am

coalnewbie wrote: TSC oil gauge is a drop in replacement and bingo started it up and bingo 17psi instantly when cold. :) When hot it drops to about zero :sick:
drop the oil and replace it with straight 30W - or even 50w if you can be patient and let the motor warm up before you use it hard

Straight weight oil maintains viscosity better then multi grade when hot

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 8:15 am

The pragmatism of the great sting strikes again.

I am using a non detergent 30w straight but seriously diluted with MMO which although it doubtless possesses many other unique properties has the kinematic viscosity of Mexican Donkey Urine (sting would insist on dimensionless si units) and that can't help with oil pressure readings. Your idea of a straight 50W is an excellent idea as I only use this in the summer and you will be amazed at how patient I can be if serious money saving is at hand. OK then, on to the next experiment and we will see. The engine does not smoke or seem tired and c rappy running could be nothing more then Chinese made points that are worn to a nub and lifters, yes they can be adjusted. I have ordered a set of NOS Echlin 275A points complete with the little capsule (no NAPA does not make these properly anymore). Consider me reinspired. Ever onward and upward, or some rubbish like that.


 
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Post by Sting » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 9:01 am

since your already using ND30 --- 50W will not make much difference, but it may be enough
and 7 quarts of 50W is a cheep experiment

the detergent oil will get that pesky MMO out of the crankcase - it will also move some things that may not have moved for a long time if you have been a long time user of ND oil
sooooo- watch out - this could be a two edged sword - while you get a longer viscosity session from the 50 vs the 30 - you may expose long term sludge that was acting as bearing surface

and simply finish the job on a tired motor

oil pressure is over rated - oil protection and simple lubrication is what you need
3-5 psi hot is fine in that machine - you simply are running on the edge and don't have a safety factory of oil moving a significant amount of heat away from the bearing surface of the tighter moving parts

Don't run the engine hot [ over normal operating temperature] and it will be fine

Example : Husdon engines ran famously well and strong - with a simple non mechanical splash and gravity well engine oiling system -- = no pressure ;)

Kind Regards
Sting

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 10:26 am

http://ocala4sale.com/classifieds/10820615205.php

I called him and he said he would ship to WI. Right now it has been for sale for so many years you might try offering a pack of Bud. It's lived in a desert all it's life, the secret to longevity.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 12:24 pm

vac gauge.jpg

Case VAC oil pressure with SAE 40 ND 1hour run

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vac electrics.png

After 12V conversion -6v coil and starting resistor

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OK SAE 40W ND from TSC, one hour run with mower - hot, 12 psi, at fast idle - perfect . :D :D. Now I am starting to pay attention to this previously ignored beauty. Points a mess nothing left and I had asked for a 12V conversion, they left in the 6V coil in and put in a resistor. GEEZ. Poor little thing, how could I have been so cruel. Notice no oil filter.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 2:04 pm

I was going to say even higher then 50 wt, but if she's coming back with 40--so be it:) yep, real nice conversion they did---NOT :( TLC indeed--Simon, that's a real hard machine to kill--be nice to her. 12 lbs is outstanding---4 lbs is OK---PLUGS -- don't forget the plugs:)

 
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Post by oros35 » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 2:19 pm

coalnewbie wrote: Points a mess nothing left and I had asked for a 12V conversion, they left in the 6V coil in and put in a resistor. GEEZ. Poor little thing, how could I have been so cruel. Notice no oil filter.
There were a number of tractors that came from the factory like that. Distributor/coil was 6V everything else was 12V. Heck, I had a Dodge truck that was like that a few years back.

Nothing wrong with a good 6v system. I've converted a few back to 6v. A well maintained stock 6v system has been way more reliable than a hacked together 12V for me.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 3:20 pm

A well maintained stock 6v system has been way more reliable than a hacked together 12V for me.
Yes I have a 6V on a Deere 40S - reliable and good. The way they have this cobbled though half the energy goes through the starting resistor and it gets hot, gotta change that! Next project, a 1943 Farmall M with downward pressure on the hydraulics, a super M and super useful. At the end of a hard day, I used to ignore these and drink beer and BBQ. Now I have officially given up living as everything that I like is really bad for me, I will have more time to devote to the managerie. Can't afford new stuff.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 4:57 pm

Need I say more.

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Post by franco b » Wed. Jun. 05, 2013 5:23 pm

With the coil upside down like you have it the electricity will run out too fast.


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