Feature Request, Window cover.

I haven't tried it out on my stove yet, but I am thinking of getting some steel to cover the window to protect it when I am not interested in watching the fire.
I would think that the metal that is punched out to make the opening for the door could be used.
A couple of clips at the bottom for the bottom edge of the cover. 2 slots in the cover that would slide onto the clips at the top.
The clips would connect to the door using the bolts used by the existing window clips.

You must have children who throw stuff around, else why would the glass need protection? You could use a sheet of metal with lots of holes in it, or slots, then you could monitor the fire reasonably well but still keep the basketballs and alphabet blocks away. The only warning I can think of, with my stove, is that there are secondary air inlet slots along the edges of the glass, so I would not want to fit a tight cover that could restrict the air. If your stove is not built the same way then that's not a cause for concern.

I wouldn't recommend it. One of the benefits of having the window in a stove is being able to watch the beautiful blue dancers. However, another more important benefit is to permit a good portion of the heat to pass out of the stove and into your living space. If you cover the window, you may run the risk of overheating your stove and/or damaging the glass. Also, by trapping more heat in the stove, more heat will probably get wasted up the chimney.

Leisure Line has a combination ashpan cover and door opening cover you can buy. Just a sheet of galvanized with lip on each end and a spring handle thingy in the middle. I use it when I clean my glass. Open the door, pop the steel on and wait for the door to cool. Works good on the ash pan also so no dust blows up.

The shield would be between the fire and the glass, on the inside of the stove. The window has a limited life time expectancy. Mine has the dreaded white film on it already. I would think a metal heat shield/dust cover would extend the life of the window from a few years to almost forever.

Hi Don,
I have tried about everything I could think of to help the glass. I went as far as having stainless steel screening (30%, 40%,50% opening) attach to the glass bolts. No help. Changed the angle of the grate holes. No help. Changed depth of the fire location on the grate. No help. Raised and lowered the burner in the stove. No help. Placed deflectors above the door. No help. Below the door. No help. In 35 yrs I haven't found anything to really help, not with forced combustion air.
Jerry
PS
Remember that tempered glass reflects the heat, Robex lets it through.

I have thought about a hood or screen, but decided that would just slow the collection of deposits on the glass.
What I am thinking of is to completely shield the glass. Sheet of steel with possibly some gasket material around the edges.
The maintenance cycle on the pocono is usually 3 days. That is a long time that the window is not needed at all on a "basement" stove. What I am thinking is that the steel shield will keep it clear when not in use, possibly extending the life of the robex by reducing the direct heat, allow most of the heat to pass through, and hopefully the glass will remain crystal clear for burn rate observations when needed, and periodic stare at the fire meditation, for an extra long time.

I don't know what ceramic Alaska used back in 1989, but my buddie's Channing has the original "glass" in it. It's not perfect and he's far from a maintenance freak, but he has managed to keep it viewable since 1989 with little care. He uses a razor blade a few times a year and not much else.

xackley wrote:The shield would be between the fire and the glass, on the inside of the stove. The window has a limited life time expectancy. Mine has the dreaded white film on it already. I would think a metal heat shield/dust cover would extend the life of the window from a few years to almost forever.

Same thing happened to me as far as the white film. I just used a few straight blade razors. Took me a good 25 minutes but it turned out great haven't had much film buildup come back yet. I had no scratches from it but I have alot of spider webbing as they call it with the glass now. Even when cleaning it after about 2 hours or so its cloudy and full of ash. I'm getting sick of cleaning it everyday might just let it go or clean it once a week. To bad there wasnt something that worked.

hi heard of putting fine mesh titanium screen over grate.allowing flames to go through but stopping particulate buildup on glass i plan on trying this idea if i can find some.if anyone can tell me were to buy some please reply.

smith10210 wrote:Same thing happened to me as far as the white film. I just used a few straight blade razors. Took me a good 25 minutes but it turned out great haven't had much film buildup come back yet. I had no scratches from it but I have alot of spider webbing as they call it with the glass now. Even when cleaning it after about 2 hours or so its cloudy and full of ash. I'm getting sick of cleaning it everyday might just let it go or clean it once a week. To bad there wasnt something that worked.

Same here. What causes the spider webbing? I'm thinking of trying NeoCeram & if anyone has used it please post results. Thanks.

spc wrote:

smith10210 wrote:Same thing happened to me as far as the white film. I just used a few straight blade razors. Took me a good 25 minutes but it turned out great haven't had much film buildup come back yet. I had no scratches from it but I have alot of spider webbing as they call it with the glass now. Even when cleaning it after about 2 hours or so its cloudy and full of ash. I'm getting sick of cleaning it everyday might just let it go or clean it once a week. To bad there wasnt something that worked.

Same here. What causes the spider webbing? I'm thinking of trying NeoCeram & if anyone has used it please post results. Thanks.

I traced mine already and measured it for when I decide to try it. Arch-Top neoceram H-10" 7/16xW-13"9/16. It was $51.67 plus shipping.