HELP! Manual is MIA

Stoker-man / Anyone ... can you please help?

I live in my deceased fathers house which has an OLD EFM stoker/boiler. I have issues to address. Dad purchased it well over 20 years ago and I am sure it was used at that time.

My issues include: burning efficiency (unburnt coal) and steam pressure (radiators at far ends of the house are cold).

Can someone tell me the model and if a manual is even accessable? See the attached photo.

I do know it has an S20 stoker. I recently set the teeth and air flow to 4 (the latter was at 8!) and I do have a 1.5" ring around the fire.

I appreciate any info anyone can provide. Regards... SueK

Looks like an older 520 model. Manual is available from EFM website. It will be the newer manual but close enough for starters. Parts are still available. Stoker-man can give you more info.

Here you go.

http://www.efmheating.com/manuals/DF520%20Manual.pdf

I see EFM's website is sporting a link to the forum here that the EFM guy (stokerman) is filling out.

Check out the EFM section, stoker-man is giving us basic training on how to become EFM master technicians. I would worry about how short the bin feed pipe is, the manual says keep it a minimum of 6 feet to avoid coal gas and carbon monoxide entering the bin.

Your cold radiators are not a matter of pressure. A steam boiler shoould only have 1-2 psi of pressure. Sorry I can't be of more help but I didn't want you to try and jack up the pressure. Not good in a steam boiler.

skapinsk wrote:steam pressure (radiators at far ends of the house are cold).

One pipe system or two? Circulating pump, zones? This, more than likely, is a plumbing problem and not related to the boiler.

Thanks all for the replies.

Based on these additional info includes:

My steam boiler pressure is at 0 (zero). Do not know how to increase/decrease but do have the latest manual now.

I believe I only have a one pipe system as the main pipe comes out of the unit and T's off to the right and left. No extra (circulating) pumps involved.

And yes, I understand that the bin feed pipe should be at least 6 ft but it is only 2-3 and has been that way forever (dad was a McGuiver). This is the first year I have had any issues with this system.

You have the older 520, I think at least 30 years old. If you can find the serial #, I can probably tell you when it was made. All parts are available, except the round door.

Your pressuretrol is what controls the steam pressure. It doubles as the high limit switch.

skapinsk wrote:My steam boiler pressure is at 0 (zero). Do not know how to increase/decrease but do have the latest manual now.

It has to run harder for more heat. More air/fuel/longer burn, something. The problem is the pressure.

Does the boiler have a headspace? If the system is overfilled your not going anywhere.

Yes there is headspace. My water level is right in the middle where it should be. I made the mistake a month ago in overfilling and the system shut right down... as it should. In the responses I have received so far I see my inital problem being that the psi is at 0.

Stoker-man... one of my replies was not posted.

My pressuretrol is at: MAIN - 30 psi and DIFF - 11 psi

I have not learned how to adjust this....yet. Can you assist if needs be?

Thanx

Based on your last post, I suspect that you have a vapor system; a rare bird. Pressure is measured in ounces. In that case you'll have a valve at the end of your loop somewhere, I think. I've never seen one, but I was able to get some information about them.

They put out a small amount of vapor, then a vacuum pulls it back to the boiler and the cycle continues.

I would need more info about the models of controls on the unit, and even then may not be able to offer anything.

Steam boilers boil water to make steam. The steam rises, condenses in the radiators and then runs back to the boiler in liquid form to be reheated. If you have radiators not getting hot, it's probably not a pressure issue.
Go to heatinghelp.com run by Dan Holohan, a guru of steam and hydronic heat. You might be able to figure out your problem by reading through the FAQ's and such on that site. They used to have a link where you could ask a question about your system. Maybe they still do. Don't fiddle with your pressure.

coalkirk wrote:Go to heatinghelp.com run by Dan Holohan, a guru of steam and hydronic heat. You might be able to figure out your problem by reading through the FAQ's and such on that site. They used to have a link where you could ask a question about your system. Maybe they still do. Don't fiddle with your pressure.

Dan, also authors books about steam and hydronic heating. Buy his book on steam heating. Well worth the investment.

Too late on messing with the pressure. Last night I did figure out and adjust the pressuretrol setting. It is now MAIN-49 and DIFF-11 and the once cold radiators are now warm. I need to find out what the maximum is between these two – if there is one. I believe I saw it on this site somewhere.

On the pressuretrol it states the DIFF is subtractive. Do I take it that this number (11) is subtracted from the MAIN to equate the differential #?

And yes I it seems I am the odd bird. Just don’t call me an old bird I do have a release valve at one end of the loop. We were wondering if this valve was operational as I have not witnessed any activity with it.

What may support this vapor system theory is I do have an (IN HG) Vac pressure valve. This is the pressure valve I mentioned in an earlier post; currently at 0. The changes made to the pressuretrol did not effect this number. This valve sits on a black triangular device on the upper front of the furnace (see the photo I uploaded in initial post).

If you need additional photos I can take plenty. Oh and the aquastat is an R183B1K. Of course I am not going there….yet.

Thanks guys…. I appreciate it.