lsayre wrote:I saw the DS Machine EnergyMax 110 this past Saturday, and I was very impressed with it. It has a lever (knob) that you move from left to right to switch it from providing 80% air over and 20% air under, to 80% air under and 20% air over (this per the store assistant who was explaining it to me). Well built and good looking. The greatest disappointment was no hopper.
Lightning wrote:So about the hopper on a hand fed. Is it really a huge benefit? I mean you still gotta shake the grates when you normally would right? What's the pros of having a hopper?
dcrane wrote:someone wish to explain what this knuckle head is trying to prove, suggest, show with this vid?
Lightning wrote:NO really lol.. Whats the big deal about having a hopper? Yeah I guess the coal gets "pre heated" but what else? You don't handle coal as much? Why not just dump a bucket in on the coal bed at shake time? Please, enlighten me
franco b wrote:When you burn wood it makes a huge difference how you burn it. Stuff the fire box full and turn down the air for a long burn, then consider cleaning the chimney every 30 days. Run shorter hot fires that are much cleaner then once a year is probably OK but you should still check for build up or better still burn coal.
Gary1 wrote:I'm aware of companies that make furnaces that burn both wood and coal, such as the Woodchuck unit made by the Meyer Mfg co, but can anyone tell me if there are any excellent stoves that burn both fuels efficiently?
pineyguy wrote:I'm going to enter my vote for Harman too. I have an SF250 and burn wood in the shoulder months. It does a fine job. I modified the firebox so it was the same or close to, the dimensions of the ashpan (basically I just built a frame so I could use full brick instead of the small ones.) I can't fit as much wood in now, but it will still hold a fire overnight. I experimented with the air supply and use the under fire air rather than the upper door air. It seems to burn cleaner that way.