Keystoker 90K, Convection Blower

pjb153 · Post by **pjb153** » Wed. Jan. 02, 2008 9:03 am

I need a convection blower for my KeyStoker 90k. I cleaned it out once, then it stopped again. I think it is simply shot.

Can anyone help me with a place to buy them? I have not yet priced KeyStoker factory. Can I get just the motor without the entire housing?

It is a Fasco 1/20 motor. I will need to write down the part number and type.

Thanks, Phil

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Wed. Jan. 02, 2008 9:14 am

Try your dealer first, I think I priced one a year ago, $100-130?

Try http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com

I think you can only get the whole housing, but I could be wrong.

pjb153 · Post by **pjb153** » Wed. Jan. 02, 2008 9:17 am

I just called KeyStoker, 148.00 plus tax and shipping... ouch!

I am going to try and look around and maybe take the entrire motor apart tongith to get into the inner workings.

I think it is a 265 cfm

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Wed. Jan. 02, 2008 9:31 am

Yes, the stock blower is 265 CFM, I think you can get a 350 CFM optional one. You may need the model number also to cross it.

I would check around the internet (do a search on Fasco Model XXXX) , you can probably get it cheaper by searching model number. I have seen them on a bunch of different sites. (amazon.com)

You just have to match model numbers or ratings/Flange size for it work/fit properly. Make sure it's a "shaded pole" if you want to control the speed.

av8r · Post by **av8r** » Wed. Jan. 02, 2008 9:33 am

Get the part number and dimensions of the mounting flange. There are lots of places online that sell these for much less than what you were quoted. You might try a motor rebuild shop also. A local place does this and it's very reasonable to have the motor rebuilt.

europachris · Post by **europachris** » Wed. Jan. 02, 2008 12:14 pm

Grainger sells it as part number 4C447 for $64 approx. That's what I bought during my rebuild process, and it's still sitting in the box as a spare, but I don't think the original one is going to make it too much longer. I tried to run it on a speed control and it wasn't happy and started growling, etc. It's OK only at full speed or off.

pjb153 · Post by **pjb153** » Wed. Jan. 02, 2008 3:37 pm

My father has a older blower motor from a wood boiler he is no longer using. Until I can get a new 1/20 HP replacement, I was going to try and use this to wash some heat from the stove.

It is a 1/70 HP Dayton. The CFM is probably different, so I may need to reset my Off/On limit switch (Thanks for the tips Matthaus).

I am hoping I can rig a reduction plate to mount the blower since the mouth is smaller. I have a on/off blower set up now, so no need to worry about blower speed.

It might even get me thru till spring if we do it right.

pjb153 · Post by **pjb153** » Thu. Jan. 03, 2008 9:09 am

No go on the smaller blower motor. The opening is just too small and would not be near the CFM.

So I called grainger near me and the 4C447 model was discontinued and replaced with

I little more money, but my real concern is the mounting holes. If I am paying that much, I want it to mount up with no fabrication. The Opening Height is different.

Any tips?

Matthaus · Post by **Matthaus** » Thu. Jan. 03, 2008 9:24 am

Give me a call Phil, I think I might have a blower you can use.

europachris · Post by **europachris** » Thu. Jan. 03, 2008 9:41 am

pjb153 wrote:No go on the smaller blower motor. The opening is just too small and would not be near the CFM.

So I called grainger near me and the 4C447 model was discontinued and replaced with

I little more money, but my real concern is the mounting holes. If I am paying that much, I want it to mount up with no fabrication. The Opening Height is different.

Any tips?

I looked at the specs. I'm going to guess that the mounting bolt pattern is the same. The opening height difference is 1/16". It should fit up with no issues, and I wouldn't think they would come out with a replacement unit that doesn't fit in the same place as the old one.

[Edit]: You can also order just the motor for your existing blower as a 3M778 from Grainger, about $55. I also noticed that the new blowers are PSC motors vs. shaded pole and also have ball bearings vs. sleeve bearings.

MrP57 · Post by **MrP57** » Thu. Jan. 03, 2008 5:37 pm

How often do you have to replace these motors, and what else would be a good idea to have on stock?
Gary

av8r · Post by **av8r** » Thu. Jan. 03, 2008 6:38 pm

europachris wrote:
pjb153 wrote:No go on the smaller blower motor. The opening is just too small and would not be near the CFM.

So I called grainger near me and the 4C447 model was discontinued and replaced with

I little more money, but my real concern is the mounting holes. If I am paying that much, I want it to mount up with no fabrication. The Opening Height is different.

Any tips?
I looked at the specs. I'm going to guess that the mounting bolt pattern is the same. The opening height difference is 1/16". It should fit up with no issues, and I wouldn't think they would come out with a replacement unit that doesn't fit in the same place as the old one.

[Edit]: You can also order just the motor for your existing blower as a 3M778 from Grainger, about $55. I also noticed that the new blowers are PSC motors vs. shaded pole and also have ball bearings vs. sleeve bearings.

I was under the assumption that sleeve bearing motors were used due to the close proximity to a heat source that could ruin a ball bearing?

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Thu. Jan. 03, 2008 7:17 pm

During your Spring Shutdown maintenance and if you have time during the season, most of the motors have little OIL Holes on each end of the casing. Use a good electric Motor (like 3 in 1) oil to keep the bearing lubricated. Some of the motors are mounted upside down and you have to physically remove to oil them. There's usually a little rubber tube/grommet on each end or just a detant (notch).

Sleeve bearing are much cheaper to produce then ball bearing type, they would have to supply sealed bearings with hi temp grease, permanently lubricated. much easier and cheaper for a sleeve bearing that you put a few drops of oil in. Some of the higher priced blowers do have sealed ball bearings.

europachris · Post by **europachris** » Thu. Jan. 03, 2008 9:14 pm

MrP57 wrote:How often do you have to replace these motors, and what else would be a good idea to have on stock?
Gary

Well, my stove is at least 10 years old, and I believe all the motors were original. The combustion blower was shot, it just screeched. The convection blower is still in good shape for another year or two, and I replaced the direct vent motor due to bearing noise, but otherwise it worked fine - it probably would have rattled along for several more years and drove me nuts. Stoker motor is original, but getting tired. I'd guess a few more years on that one at best.

I'll quantify my motor situation with the statement that I don't believe any of the motors were EVER lubricated since new (nor was the stove ever cleaned out - but that's another story). So, that should tell you how long motors should last, and if lubricated at least once a season, they will last a long time indeed.

pjb153 · Post by **pjb153** » Fri. Jan. 04, 2008 1:36 pm

Update.

I found a 1/20 hp motor that will mount to my housing and I needed to take apart my cage and off with the old motor. So I get this all apart (very very dirty by the way, probably never cleaned at all) and before I snip any wires or mount the new motor, I wanted to be sure of the rotation.

My luck.. It was a counter clockwise motor which will spin the cage in the wrong direction. So at 7:00 last night with the old housing apart and no where to go.. I left it until today and placed a small room fan behind the stove to try and wash some heat for the night.

Oh well, measure twice.. cut once.. I should have been more aware of what I needed. I picked up the correct rotation motor today and all should mount up nicely.

Oh and it was 54.00 as compared to over 77.00 for the complete housing.