Casting Refractory Panels
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Ok, first of all, I am forced to burn wood. The house we have purchased has an insert that has panels that are cracked. Only the back is bad (as usual) but getting it out will probably entail ruining the bottom and at least one side. I have been looking at premade panels and such. They are real pricey. I know you guys cast your own firepots for the Glenwoods and other old burners. So can I cast my own panels? If I make the forms, with raised areas to look like brick, can I pour or lay or pound a refractory into them and get results that will survive installation?
Kevin
Kevin
- dcrane
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Casting refractory is as easy as pie... a few key notes: use oil (any oil) on the surfaces of your mold, make the refractory just thick enough to "set up" to the mold you need, try to make the mold as smooth as you can (cdx plywood can be sanded nice prior to making the form), after you take out your brick from the mold make sure you throw it in your oven at 200 couple hours, then 300 couple hours, then 400 couple hours.KLook wrote:Ok, first of all, I am forced to burn wood. The house we have purchased has an insert that has panels that are cracked. Only the back is bad (as usual) but getting it out will probably entail ruining the bottom and at least one side. I have been looking at premade panels and such. They are real pricey. I know you guys cast your own firepots for the Glenwoods and other old burners. So can I cast my own panels? If I make the forms, with raised areas to look like brick, can I pour or lay or pound a refractory into them and get results that will survive installation?
Kevin
PICS would be good bro (common you know we want PICS! )
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PIcs???? It is just a steel fireplace insert, cheap even. The panels are not cheap however and the company is out of business.(go figure) I only need a candle to heat down here, but the former owners managed to ruin the fireback with hot burns. Are you talking about pouring bricks (9x4 or so) or pouring a panel. I can do better then sanding cdx(which they don't have here and give you a strange look if you ask) I work in a cabinet shop and they have plenty of smooth prefinished stuff. Hmmmmm, I don't have an oven big enough to put in the bottom and back. The sides would probably fit. Any more ideas? I think I can pour the back and bottom in 2 pieces......
Kevin
Ok ok I will take some pictures.
Kevin
Ok ok I will take some pictures.
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You can use "plastic refractory" and pound it in place with a mallet. It is available at any place the repairs boilers. I use it exclusively on antique ranges and parlor stoves. Works great. A case should be under $50 or so.
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I think the plastic would be the way to go, we used a product called ram-set I think A.P.Green made it, came in a block that was divided into about 1/in" slabs maybe a foot or 18 in square, just pound it into place & it would gradually air dry but a little heat would cure it fast, that was for molten iron & steel so it would hold up with a wood fire.
- dcrane
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Hmmm... fireplace insert (is this just a sheet metal insert with some sort of fireproof material sandwiched into it?), pics would be good to understand what it is (I'm a dummy sometimes and need help ).
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KL,
See if you can find a concrete basement guy that has some brickface forms and borrow one. you could probably do all your pieces at once.
Then take them to a pizza shop and see if they would fire em for ya. Dont know about their temps .... In any event the concrete form would be tits for what your doing.
Waldo
See if you can find a concrete basement guy that has some brickface forms and borrow one. you could probably do all your pieces at once.
Then take them to a pizza shop and see if they would fire em for ya. Dont know about their temps .... In any event the concrete form would be tits for what your doing.
Waldo
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Thanks for the tips guys. All good ones. Sorry to not respond sooner, we have moved into our hoise and don't have internet yet.I am doing this on a phone. Pain in the arse.
Kevin
Kevin
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Ok. The local Ace guy told me he could buy castable or I could make my own with vermiculiteand basic refactory. Any thoufhts about these options? Finding and working the plastic stuff could get difficult.
Kevin
Kevin
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yes,the panels are expensive,but casting your own will only lead to bigger problems like too much heat beyond the fireplace and a fire will occur.The zero clearence fireplaces are not intended for home heating, only for small fires.I found a site for replacement panels,you may need to cut to fit or call to see if they will cut it for you? http://www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com/hargrove-fir ... efractory/ Google zero clearence fireplace panels for more sites. good luck and don't slamb the firewood into them or the will break the same way.
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I have done a little more research then just google. As far as I'm concerned it is totaly unecessary to have a fireplace at all don here. But it is in the house we bought. It will produce way more heat then this house needs. I am not going to pay $119 for panels I have to cut if I can make them. I also am stripping the siding off the chimney chase as it has been leaking around the top. This will satisfy my mind as to what and how it was done and potential damage to the unit. I have installed more then on of these and gas units so I am famiar with how they work. Maybe I will just put a candle in it for heat this winter.
Kevin
Kevin