When Can You Stain a New Deck?

 
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anthony7812
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Post by anthony7812 » Sat. Aug. 24, 2013 9:28 pm

Comments? Im curious to see what you all think about stain treatment on PT boards. How long should I wait to do this? Ive looked into using composite but I cant justify the extra cost. Thoughts?
Last edited by anthony7812 on Sat. Aug. 24, 2013 10:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Sat. Aug. 24, 2013 9:45 pm

my preference is to wait for them to dry out a bit which depends on how wet the boards were to begin with and the weather while you wait. this summer since it hasn't stopped raining here for more than a day (seems like it anyway) I have told the spousal unit that it has simply been impossible to stain all summer! ;)

some folks get pretty technical with the moisture meters and such, but if you think its ready and do a test area that isn't noticeable you should be able to tell if it is safe to continue.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Aug. 24, 2013 10:18 pm

PT from HD or Lowes, or whoever is as dry as it's going to get---put it down & paint, stain whatever ASAP work with the weather:)

 
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Post by dcrane » Sun. Aug. 25, 2013 6:08 am

best option...Mahogany or teak and let it weather gray and then your great grandkids can worry about giving it some maintenance someday :lol:

P/T is better to hit a fairly soon after its down (I would give it a few days to a week, wind, maybe one rain storm to clear off the saw dust you missed and then a sunny day to dry) then seal the heck out of it (ends especially!), the slower you can allow it to dry the better!!! May I also suggest something that takes an extra few seconds per board that everyone should do... give the edges of the deck board a quick radius on the ends to match the radius on the length of the boards (just have a lil' router plugged in next to you to give them a 2 second swipe) and picture frame the deck on all 4 sides and for the love of god use stainless screws to put em' all down!!! these 2 simple tips will give you decades worth of smiles & compliments.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Aug. 25, 2013 7:40 am

Orrrr, you could run with the KISS theory & realize that 5/4 decking is made specifically for just that---& decking screws the same. How big & what's the lay out going to be on your deck Anthony? I suspect you'll have railing where-ever you have board ends--NOW, the railing is where you can end up spending some money depending on what type of spindles you choose. There's a bunch of pretty ones available :) Post a pix of where you're planning to put the deck---straight, wrap around??????? What is your framing going to consist of?

 
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anthony7812
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Post by anthony7812 » Sun. Aug. 25, 2013 9:15 pm

I'll do one better Fred I will post some pics and a video here soon, more than likely if I remember tommorrow night. I am in very early stages of this, maybe starting construction next spring.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Aug. 25, 2013 9:32 pm

Nice--we can give you 2 million suggestion on how to do it RIGHT-- :roll: :clap: toothy


 
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anthony7812
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Post by anthony7812 » Sun. Aug. 25, 2013 10:01 pm

freetown fred wrote:Nice--we can give you 2 million suggestion on how to do it RIGHT-- :roll: :clap: toothy
Bah, more ideas the better. I only wanna have to do this once so might as well get it right.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Aug. 26, 2013 3:12 am

anthony7812 wrote:
freetown fred wrote:Nice--we can give you 2 million suggestion on how to do it RIGHT-- :roll: :clap: toothy
Bah, more ideas the better. I only wanna have to do this once so might as well get it right.
Sorry, but PT lumber is not what it used to be...and neither are the products you can apply to help it defend itself. DO NOT apply a latex product or you will be forever scraping and reapplying it. My $0.02 is to let it go grey and then apply Thompson's Water seal, or a similar product.
anthony7812 wrote:I've looked into using composite but I cant justify the extra cost. Thoughts?
How many sq. ft is the deck? I am in the process of redoing my porch with composite...worked out to about $2.50 per foot for 5" deck boards.

 
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Post by mattcoalburner » Mon. Aug. 26, 2013 8:59 am

Buy a stain for freshly treated wood, olympic and cabot make them and stain asap....

 
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Post by dcrane » Mon. Aug. 26, 2013 7:20 pm

pics of picture framing and rounding edges of an oiled deck (makes a cheapo P/T deck look like furniture)

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Post by david78 » Mon. Aug. 26, 2013 8:08 pm

I have used Armstrong-Clark stains with good results. I had a question once and called the company and the company president returned my call the same day. How often does that happen?

 
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Post by NWBuilder » Mon. Aug. 26, 2013 8:59 pm

I agree with using a 1/4" round over bit in a laminate router for a nice finished edge. Even the small details make a big difference. My supplier has always recommended waiting a year or so for the material to dry out first before applying a stain, never paint. Ceramic coated screws work well with PT but some can rust over the long haul, 20 plus years. Not all Stainless steel screws are the same, some are very soft and the heads can snap off fairly easily. Composite decking is nice but the cost can be substantial. Fiberon is running a special now with a rebate but that may be for contractors only. Might be worth looking into depending on your wallet and project size, PT will be less then half the cost of Composite. Good luck, NWB

 
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Post by michaelanthony » Mon. Aug. 26, 2013 9:33 pm

I built a screened porch that I framed with p.t. and covered the floor with 5/4 northern white cedar that can be ordered through an established fence company. I built the walls and window openings wih the same and it takes stains better that any other option. I'm happy to say the 5 x 5 white cedar posts will out live me they are light and impervious to bugs and rot!

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Post by dcrane » Tue. Aug. 27, 2013 6:21 am

michaelanthony wrote:I built a screened porch that I framed with p.t. and covered the floor with 5/4 northern white cedar that can be ordered through an established fence company. I built the walls and window openings wih the same and it takes stains better that any other option. I'm happy to say the 5 x 5 white cedar posts will out live me they are light and impervious to bugs and rot!
5/4 cedar :shock: how are you buying that for any kind of cost efficiency? I assume that rough sawn still and not planed? Usually Fencing cedar is very thin and knotty as hell (which would not be good for deck flooring), but if you have a line on 5/4 clean cedar for anywhere near the price of P/T post the contact info please (I'd be interested in picking up a load).


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