Cumbustion Blower and SWG PV Drawing Cold Air Into House!

So I've now installed my Alaska Channing stoker in my dining room and its been running for about 36 hours now. Then we got this cold snap in Western NY and the stove seems to be pulling cold air through every orifice in my 160 year old, not so well built or maintained farm house!

Could the power vent and combustion fan be creating too much draw on the air in the house? I've had to cover all air returns and vents from my furnace due to cold air coming from them (presumably from the pv sucking too hard). Can the pv be placed on a rheostat? If so, what kind is recommended? I attempted to put it in-line with the rheostat that controls my convection blowers, but that did not work.

Also, I have read some threads that refer to ducting that is used to provide either fresh air to the combustion fan or using cold air return ducting for that purpose. My situation is that I am very near an outside wall and could plumb a duct for fresh air, or I could take air from the basement and perhaps connect it to the cold air return of my furnace. What might the pro's and con's?

Also, I have an old baro damper that appears as though it may work, but is corroded to the point that I cannot read what setting it is at. It there a way to tell what is a good enough setting by appearance and behavior of the damper?

Thanks for all your help!

I am eagerly waiting to install a hot water coil in my stove, asap. Has anyone used this in conjunction with radiant floor heating?

Thank God the temps are on the rise!

I would suggest running a fresh air intake to the combustion motor it will help solve some of your problem . I just installed one last weekend I just used 3" PVC and 3" aluminum drier hose and made a flange I had a similar problem with my cold air returns. I was told also that if you where to connect to your existing cold air return connect to your convection blower. Your damper might be an issue also I would buy a new one and make sure your getting the proper draft..

Yes, do a search on here, it has been discussed quite often how to slow the SWG down, BUT you need a Manometer to check the actual draft of the stove and set your baro damper accordingly. Don't go by the settings on the baro, it can be way off if has any corrosion or rust on it.

Okay. I'll begin work on the fresh air intake right away and order a new baro damper from field controls asap. My stove is unfortunately too far from my main air return trunk to work something out. I seems like many on this forum who have connected their stoves to the ductwork have them in their basements. My wife would never allow ductwork to be snaking all over the dining room to get to the basement!

Thanks for you help

You can participate in the manometer (a type of draft gauge) loan program found in this thread:

Manometer Loaner Program

As WNY said you need to measure your draft to be able to set up the new baro and to verify proper draft throughout the burn range.

If you want to buy a manometer they are available for a decent price on ebay, here is an example:
**Broken Link(s) Removed**If you can find a Dwyer Mark II model 25 for less than $35 including shipping that is a decent price.