Painted My Stove
Hello all it's been awhile since my last post when I was considering buying a coal stove . Well as luck would have it before I went out and bought a stove I had one given to me , an older Alaska stoker . It is in pretty good shape it just needed to be cleaned up and painted before it put it inside my house . Well I took most of it apart and cleaned the dust off an lubricated the electrical motors and bought some Rust-Olem specialty high heat paint in flat black . I prepped the surfaces by hitting them with my 3" scotch bright pads on my right angles air grinder and wiping them down with Lacquer thinner . Then proceeded to paint the high heat paint as it said no primer required . Well I shook each can for a couple of minutes before spraying to make sure it was properly mixed in the can and then painted . The paint came out super thin and had very little coverage and seamed like it was drying upon touching the metal . I did 2 coats and could still see some light streaking . It was dry to the touch after a couple of hours and when I ran my hand across the surface it was black from the paint . When I assembled one of the blower fans today the paint was so easily scuffed by rubbing across it with anything at all . So I am less than pleased with the paint and did some looking and saw that alot of people liked Stove Bright brand paint . So my question is do I have to remove all the Rust-oleum before I paint the Stove bright on or can I just go and paint over it ?
- freetown fred
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Now if you're gonna do it RIGHT---you know exactly what you have to do:( I'd use grain alcohol & fine steel wool, & get off what comes off, if you can get some. Then just dry wipe it down.
- 2001Sierra
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High heat paint needs heat to cure, but it should be dry to the touch after some time. I am never a fan of paint that is soo tender after application. My Keystoker is painted with Stove Bright from the factory. I painted my stove pipe to match and the painted parts of the stove "hopper", still the paint does not rub off on my hands. That being said I just went downstairs with a kleenex and rubbed hard on the hopper and color came off after 3 years. High heat paint is a strange bird
I also use 91% alcohol alot in the garage to clean many things and it is not nice to high heat paint, you always get some paint on your cleaning cloth.
I also use 91% alcohol alot in the garage to clean many things and it is not nice to high heat paint, you always get some paint on your cleaning cloth.
I know the Stove Bright needs a couple of heat cycles to cure but theirs nothing on the Rust-oleumcan about needing to be heat cured . The finish really bums me out as you can see the streaking of the spray can . The paint acts more like its a primer more than a paint . I really hope I can just paint over it with the Stove Bright .
- freetown fred
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OK, I'm going to try this slower & more to the point--you scotch brite pad a more or less porous surface & wipe it down with lacquer THINNER--NOW, that THINNER is going to get into the pores--Soooooo, no matter what you paint with, it will be affected by the existing THINNER, which will do---wait for it--screw up the paint bond--Sooooo, use the grain alcohol & you will get most of the THINNER out of the pores & you will be in business. Follow the directions on the Stove Brite
Alright I get your second post a little better . I am not a painter , I figured the thinner would clean the surface of any oil or grease and then evaporate off . I'll hit it all with the scotch bright again and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol and paint it with the Stove Bright .
- freetown fred
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wj, let it sit for a couple days after the wipe down--ya got the time now--& make sure you let it season well & space out those two or three coats & warm ups over a few days--that will give you your best results:)
- dcrane
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Rustoleum is NOT a great stove paint to use (I never liked the nozzles or the performance)... Its easy to obtain and inexpensive from Home Depot or Loews but your NEVER going to see stove shops OR manufactures using this stuff. Its simply not a good choice for us here, go online and try Thermolox or Stove Bright (Its only an extra couple bucks per can) and this is the stuff we use. Ideally If you have a canister sprayer and compressor buy a gallon and thin in out slightly in your canister and you will see a dramatic difference in the application, coverage and evenness of the coat (it will look its from a shop showroom because that's how they do it).
These canister type paint cans are super inexpensive now ($15-$20) and if you have a compressor already I know you would see a dramatic difference in the application of it.
These canister type paint cans are super inexpensive now ($15-$20) and if you have a compressor already I know you would see a dramatic difference in the application of it.
- stovepipemike
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You are not done with this job until you take the Rustoleum back and leave with your original purchase money. How else can we expect a mfgr to improve if he/she does not know they are on the wrong track and doing 80mph? Mike
- Lightning
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Like Fred said, must be the thinner had an effect on the paint bonding. I used Rustoleum High Heat flat black on mine. No problems, looks just as good today as it did three years ago. But, I'm sure there are other products that are betterfreetown fred wrote:OK, I'm going to try this slower & more to the point--you scotch brite pad a more or less porous surface & wipe it down with lacquer THINNER--NOW, that THINNER is going to get into the pores--Soooooo, no matter what you paint with, it will be affected by the existing THINNER, which will do---wait for it--screw up the paint bond--Sooooo, use the grain alcohol & you will get most of the THINNER out of the pores & you will be in business. Follow the directions on the Stove Brite
- dcrane
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great job! looks like you picked the stove bright charcoal (just like the big boys)! make sure people are out shopping or something when you go to cure it (it will save your eardrums!)