Don't trust any old stove's pressure tank to withstand full water pressure. If you want to use it do it as an indirect heater with water pressure no higher than needed to fill the tank and the tank vented as stovehospital said.
Besides being a commercial clip (very appealing to me, though) the manufacturer of the stove explains his setup for DHW on a cast iron kitchen range... that part starts at 5:40mins He installed a 40 gal. hot water tank in a cupboard right next to the stove....
I know if I do not connect the stove to the range boiler I crack the water jacket on the stove. My question is do i need to operate the stove with the water jacket or could I just go ahead and operate the stove without the water jacket connected to the range boiler? Recognizing the water jacket will crack and fail.
You must have a water supply to run the stove with the waterfront in place. You could remove it and fill the void with refractory or you could hook it up to the domestic supply. Best way to connect to the domestic supply is to go to a used book store and look for old correspondence school text books on heating. the ones made around 1900 or so have whole chapters on how to do the job right and what to avoid. It is possible to do great damage to the stove, home, and yourself if you do it wrong. The waterfront itself is usually full of scale and is prone to getting plugged, so check it out carefully before you start. You do need several blow off valves that exhaust outside and extensive plumbing inside. I avoid the whole thing and go with the refractory liner.