Stove Moves While Shaking Down

Hi all new to site. Been burning for going on 4years now. Wish I I found your site when I started burning would have saved me a lot of cursing and scratching my head that first year but any way came along way since then. Live in a ranch (2009) 26x 58 . 26x24 is garage, 26x34 is unfinished basement where my stove is located with a regular chiminey 8x8 flue. I just have basement door left open all winter and heat rises up. Ok just wanted to give a little info. Have concrete floor where stove is placed, stove rocks just a little when shaking like I said just a little but enough stove will walk a little I think from house and everything settling.Last year I put some cinder block behind stove helped some but I'd rather something else is there anything to put under legs of stove to help it not slide around. I really don't want to install hearth pad on a good concrete floor. The legs on stove seem fine the floor probably just a little un even thanks. My stove was also purchased new hand fed mark III harman

Use some steel washers as shims to stop rocking. Bottom heat shield would help to stop heating floor.

a heat shield? what like a piece of sheet metal ?? tried a piece of stove pipe I cut but still moved a little. I even tried moving out a little. but its either the floor or legs . legs came assembled and they seem tight .

Hi Steel Head and welcome to the forum.
You could try to put 4 discs from cloth sanding, placing the abrasive side on the floor.
Did you try to shake with less agressivity (not shure of this word ops) ?

do you have any holes in the bottom legs to drill and screw to the floor and welcome

You could use a small steel shim to stop the rocking. I have one under a leg on my stove, was there when I moved in so I couldn't tell you where to get one.

Always could try using a hammer handle stake. I don't know if that's what it's called but they are steel shims used to secure wooden hammer handles.

don't all stoves have solid welded adjustable feet and built in double baffle heat plates?

In all seriousness... steel shims or almost anything tapped with a hammer & screwdriver under the feet should do the trick (if your moving the stove from this than your probably shacking to aggressively for some reason)?

X3 metal washers is easy solution

All the shimming solutions are good IF the 4 legs are not at the same height on the floor. But if at the same height and on a slippery floor, non-slippery spacer/s is/are needed.
More détails and a few photos could help

I will try to figure out how to attatch pics. I have to run out now. will try later

steel head wrote:I will try to figure out how to attatch pics. I have to run out now. will try later

Super we love photos

dcrane wrote:don't all stoves have solid welded adjustable feet and built in double baffle heat plates?

P1010004.JPG

In all seriousness... steel shims or almost anything tapped with a hammer & screwdriver under the feet should do the trick (if your moving the stove from this than your probably shacking to aggressively for some reason)?

Agreed as mentioned above. I had a Mark II prior to the DS. Both stoves 'wobble' at the legs but are installed similar to yours on a concrete floor. I used a quarter with a penny on top and tapped them both under one of the rear legs with a hammer and walla, problem solved. As dcrane said you may be shaking too aggressively in order to make the stove 'walk'.

stove

stove pic #2

I have basically the same set up as yours, stove on bare basement floor, Steel washers does the job perfectly. If I'm not mistaken the poster above mentioned a heat shield, not so much for leveling but for reducing the bare concrete floors ability to become a heat sink. We are both losing a lot of heat heating the concrete up and it is not necessary. You would think with me knowing this that I would have done it already during the summer but no.