Chimney Foundation
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- Member
- Posts: 2270
- Joined: Sun. Sep. 30, 2012 8:20 pm
- Location: Ithaca,NY
Creeker,
It looks awesome! Pour that puppy and get stackin'. Exemplary job......
Waldo
It looks awesome! Pour that puppy and get stackin'. Exemplary job......
Waldo
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- Member
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Tue. Aug. 23, 2011 12:20 pm
- Location: Eastern Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Foundation Done. It only required Twenty 80lb. bags of Sakrete , 2 Aleve, and a long hot shower. Rain is coming for tomorrow and Saturday. I need to go to work tomorrow for a break. I really appreciate the advice, guidance, and support offered by all of you. It is looking like Sunday will be first opportunity to lay block. I have great respect for those of you that do this for a living.
More to come later.
More to come later.
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- 2001Sierra
- Member
- Posts: 2211
- Joined: Wed. May. 20, 2009 8:09 am
- Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34
Work of art to never be seen again
- buffalo bob
- Member
- Posts: 961
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 12:41 pm
- Location: scpa. bedford co. buffalo mills
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: hitzer 354 and a 254
- Coal Size/Type: anthracite nut
get the first block level both ways and it will go good for u...remember level both ways (in and out..right and left) each block..no lips and it will turn out good and plumb...dont spare the mortar on the block..and if u can get a helper to lift/lay the chim block it will save u some of them aleve...good luck, looks good so far..luv the pics b.b.
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- Member
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Tue. Aug. 23, 2011 12:20 pm
- Location: Eastern Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Here we go! I was unable to start laying block until this week. My nephew is a senior sousaphone player in the OSU marching band and I was fortunate to be able to go to my Alma Mater in Columbus last weekend to see him "Dot the i" during the famous Script Ohio at the Wisconsin game. What a great time that was!
The chimney is off to a good start I hope. We are straight and level so far with 4 blocks down and about 32 to go. I need to drop plumb lines from the roof to keep things that way since I am about to get up to the framing. I will be removing the vinyl siding in that area and installing the clean out since it is now above sidewalk level. I have an 8x8 Vestal Mfg. cast iron clean out door. Any tips or special procedures regarding the installation of a clean out? I sure hope I can clear the roof before the snow flies!
The chimney is off to a good start I hope. We are straight and level so far with 4 blocks down and about 32 to go. I need to drop plumb lines from the roof to keep things that way since I am about to get up to the framing. I will be removing the vinyl siding in that area and installing the clean out since it is now above sidewalk level. I have an 8x8 Vestal Mfg. cast iron clean out door. Any tips or special procedures regarding the installation of a clean out? I sure hope I can clear the roof before the snow flies!
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fill the bottom flue tiles below the thimble or cleanout opening with lime. I like to install the clean-outs with quickrete polyurethane adhesive - in the masonry section at your local lowes - it's similar to expansion joint sealant for masonry, but perhaps a little stickier, I don't even screw them in anymore, that stuff won't let them move, and seals them perfectly.
Don't mortar the tiles tight to the chase above the thimble opening, use vermiculite and try not to let any mortar touch the flue unless necessary to hold it.
Tip for setting flues: lay them out before hand, take a square and check the ends. Of the four sides, mark the longest side as LL and the next longest side as L If it's square, mark it SQ on both sides that it's square on. Mark Both ends of the flue tile. (this is necessary because the flues are almost NEVER square cut on all four sides). When you're setting flues, check w/ level for plumbness, but, generally, by setting your LL's and L's on oposite sides of the preceding flue, you can keep the liner stack straight w/ out shimming.
when you get to the crown, make sure that you use sill seal around the flue, fill w. mortar between that and the precast crown. once the mortar dries, cut the protruding sill seal and caulk that space w/ same quickrete masonry adhesive sealant.
Don't mortar the tiles tight to the chase above the thimble opening, use vermiculite and try not to let any mortar touch the flue unless necessary to hold it.
Tip for setting flues: lay them out before hand, take a square and check the ends. Of the four sides, mark the longest side as LL and the next longest side as L If it's square, mark it SQ on both sides that it's square on. Mark Both ends of the flue tile. (this is necessary because the flues are almost NEVER square cut on all four sides). When you're setting flues, check w/ level for plumbness, but, generally, by setting your LL's and L's on oposite sides of the preceding flue, you can keep the liner stack straight w/ out shimming.
when you get to the crown, make sure that you use sill seal around the flue, fill w. mortar between that and the precast crown. once the mortar dries, cut the protruding sill seal and caulk that space w/ same quickrete masonry adhesive sealant.
- buffalo bob
- Member
- Posts: 961
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 12:41 pm
- Location: scpa. bedford co. buffalo mills
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: hitzer 354 and a 254
- Coal Size/Type: anthracite nut
looks to me that u laid that block upside down around here the big holes are the bottom..small hole side is for spreading mud,spread it just like laying brick..trowel it on and furrow it out...looking good
- Hambden Bob
- Member
- Posts: 8551
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 04, 2010 10:54 am
- Location: Hambden Twp. Geauga County,Ohio
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman 1998 Magnum Stoker
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Blower Model Coal Chubby 1982-Serial#0097
- Coal Size/Type: Rice-A-Roni ! / Nut
- Other Heating: Pro-Pain Forced Air
I like your Crew ! You came to the right place. These Guys nailed it for you. Don't forget the Epoxy to really slam home and seal the rebar into the existing footer. Did you have footer drain tile existing ? If so,take your time re-routing it around the new chimney footer.