Antique "Rush "Stove

 
Guy
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Post by Guy » Mon. Sep. 23, 2013 8:26 pm

Anyone have any info on Rush coal stove. Is it worth trying to seal doors and using it for parlor heat?

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Last edited by Guy on Mon. Sep. 23, 2013 9:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.


 
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dcrane
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Post by dcrane » Mon. Sep. 23, 2013 8:41 pm

need photo's of it...

 
Guy
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Coal Size/Type: Rice or barly anthricite / nut & Stove in Rush

Post by Guy » Mon. Sep. 23, 2013 9:45 pm

Placed a few from phone I'll do more tomorrow of the inside back and flue

 
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dcrane
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Post by dcrane » Tue. Sep. 24, 2013 2:59 am

That's a great stove! its very similar to Union Stove Works Invader No. 2 Base Burner on Ebay (square baseburner), your appears to be one of the room heaters as opposed to a whole house heater (William might have some input as well), its a smaller sized baseburner for sure (but not to small, It should certainly do 700 sq' I would think). Grate handle looks like a Glenwood (maybe Rush was one of those obscure companies that got its parts from Weir Stove Co. (they built for so many others not merely Glenwood)? Your going to need to supply some photo's of the rear flu and inside the top and bottom doors (take out the ash pan) for William and others to explain how to use this stove... Its a baseburner im very sure by looking at that area under the ash area but over the feet! So surely their is going to be some levels, flappers & airways that are quite critical to understand for function & heat and need to be cleaned to allow the flu gases to get to proper places and at proper time (otherwise its all going up the chimney!)

as far as your doors go... they are not supposed to have gasket or be "sealed" so to speak... the castings should sit perfectly ajoining to the stove and as long as they do than all is well as she sits! Its more likely your not putting it into baseburner mode after the fire is going. Were really going to need pictures of the inside and rear flu to write a manual so to speak about how to run it (please include photo's of the grate and the cast iron liner as well as a photo looking down the opened top, some of those airways im speaking of may be behind the liner or behind the ashpan)

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Wed. Sep. 25, 2013 4:29 pm

This a very nice little stove and it will put out quite a lot of heat. Barnstable has one for sale exactly like it.

 
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Post by nortcan » Wed. Sep. 25, 2013 6:41 pm

Very nice stove Guy. I love that kind of stoves. Also nice deco.
About sealing the doors, the doors below the loading door should be as air tight as possible if you want to be able to control the burning rate.
Make the dollar bill test and see if the closed doors make some resistence on the bill when closed, but you should test the same door at many places, some time one place is tight but at a few inches from there it can have air gap...

 
Guy
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading Juniata in basement
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Coal Size/Type: Rice or barly anthricite / nut & Stove in Rush

Post by Guy » Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 9:19 pm

More pictures The top front door, then the bottom fron door, and the Flue

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Last edited by Guy on Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
Guy
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading Juniata in basement
Baseburners & Antiques: Rush No.9 in Sun parlor
Coal Size/Type: Rice or barly anthricite / nut & Stove in Rush

Post by Guy » Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 9:23 pm

Hope these help, another of flue with direct draft above it, looking down in with the top liner removed

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from ash pan door looking up at grate

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Last edited by Guy on Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 9:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.

 
Guy
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Location: Port Penn, De
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading Juniata in basement
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Coal Size/Type: Rice or barly anthricite / nut & Stove in Rush

Post by Guy » Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 9:35 pm

Thanks for all the comments, I hope to have is vented in the next two weeks and start a test burn with real stack on it. I have heard mention baffles inside but don't seem to see any. Let me know if I need some other angle photos . Main concern is to not leak alot of statrt up smoke or gasses into the living space and hopefully a way to control the burn rate. Never used this type of stove so real learning curve a newbie here.
the adice is much appreciated.

 
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dcrane
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Post by dcrane » Fri. Sep. 27, 2013 3:45 am

clearly this stove has been restored (look at those cement seams, hex nuts, etc.), Someone added gasketing to the doors and top already (I'm not thinking that's original, do you get any pressure on those gaskets when the doors are closed?)
I don't know wtf that vent is above the flu outlet :shock: (old timers manual Baro damper I guess? :lol: or adding air above fire for Bit?)
I don't see how hot gases can go down around firepot to get back up out flu and I don't see any redirect air channels or levers to allow hot gasses to recirculate through the base (so it not a baseburner).
That rear fresh air intake over the rear flu has me baffled... no pun intended ;) (William!!!!!! :taz: )

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Fri. Sep. 27, 2013 3:52 am

Just like my Union stove in every detail as far as I can see. I am trying to find out the differences in the Union stoves. Were Rushs an upmarket version of mine? I have no gold paint. The gaskets are not original that's for sure and seem to add nothing, Union casting is too good for that addition unless things are warped. Above the firepot the doors do not need to be totally air tight just pay attention to the ash door. Looks to be a cutie, good luck with it. That fresh air device is a prebaro invention that most experts say leave closed and use a modern baro instead. I intend to use mine IF I ever get to burn it but wait for the bitchin weather to arrive as low draft (warm weather) use is a no no. There are no baffles this is not a baseburner if its' like mine but I would like to see photos of downstairs. You don't need that baseburner complexity especially in a small stove, all the passageways will just get clogged up. Look out .....incoming from high in the Poconos.

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Sep. 27, 2013 12:40 pm

This is now the third Union stove to come up this month. What are the odds against that?

Nice that it has the magazine. Like Doug pointed out the gaskets look like they don't contact.

 
Guy
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Joined: Fri. Nov. 25, 2011 8:48 pm
Location: Port Penn, De
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading Juniata in basement
Baseburners & Antiques: Rush No.9 in Sun parlor
Coal Size/Type: Rice or barly anthricite / nut & Stove in Rush

Post by Guy » Fri. Sep. 27, 2013 8:26 pm

So I'm hearing pull the gaskets off not needed. It is made by Union StoveWorks.Yes I do get pressure on the doors with the gaskets, in fact one has hard time latching . Yes I was told the same about that rear draft above the flue, that it was a way of cutting down the draft on the fire, but best to leave closed.

So any other watch outs? other than yea keep watch on the CO , would you recommend a manual or barometric damper?

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Sep. 27, 2013 8:31 pm

As long as the gaskets are contacting leave them on.

Manual damper is fine but it would be nice to install a manometer to see what is happening with draft. If draft fluctuates too much with manual damper then a baro could be considered.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Fri. Sep. 27, 2013 9:02 pm

I am still trying to compare notes. The finial and stove top is much more ornate than mine. What is the size of the firepot. Is this just a later stove or is it an upmarket product in some way. There have to be catalogs, I can't find a year of manufacture anywhere. I do have the magazine but there appears to be a rod across the rear of the firepot that I do not have.


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