Tonight I'm Looking at a Glenwood Modern Oak No. 116

 
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auntievintage
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Post by auntievintage » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 6:18 pm

My husband has officially reprimanded me for using the word *chrome*. I am SO sorry :oops:


 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 7:51 pm

You have the casting on the bottom of the stove to accept the back pipe which is good. I suspect this stove when new had it. The loose plate hangs from that hole above the door. It is to divert smoke when the door is open.

The grate has jumped a tooth on the cog it is attached to or is loose on the cog. You might be able to manipulate it back, otherwise I believe it means opening the back which I understand is not easy. You can also live with it as is.

 
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dcrane
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Post by dcrane » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 9:33 pm

when doing the dollar bill test on these you should feel some resistance sliding the bill out (because their is no pressure tightening latch here, your expected to be able to pull the bill out)... you just want to know it does not slip out to easily. Your thought on the wax paper and some super high temp copper sealant is a good idea (but plan on doing it each season with your clean out as part of its routine maintenance).

 
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wsherrick
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Post by wsherrick » Thu. Oct. 03, 2013 2:04 am

On my Glenwood Base Heater, the door is perfectly tight. If you try to pull the dollar out it will get ripped in two. The two items on these doors that wear are the pawl on the latch and the hinge pins. The pawl looks like a tiny wedge and it is supposed to pull the door tight against the stove. Over time these wear out. The hinge pins also wear over time.
You can do these next summer when you have time if you want. The silicone gasket treatment will solve any air leaking around the doors, but; it's nice to have everything work like it is supposed to.
These are little things that everyone has to learn about when they get a stove for the first time. So don't worry. You have a really good specimen there and you will love it once it is up and running.

Perhaps you need to show this Forum to Bryant's and let them know that yes you can fabricate back pipes and a whole lot of other things too.

 
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Tim
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Post by Tim » Thu. Oct. 03, 2013 2:35 pm

Nice stove !!...you got a great deal!

 
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auntievintage
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Post by auntievintage » Tue. Oct. 08, 2013 1:24 pm

Image

We made it to the Love Barn yesterday! Picked up 50lbs of noxram ($58).
I'm excited to get this girl up & running but, alas, this weekend is the annual men's bird-hunting & pistol competition camp-out. I don't think I will be attempting this without my husband so it will have to wait.
I will update when we find the time.
Meanwhile, we have been day-dreaming over several stoves that he had over there...

 
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Smokeyja
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Post by Smokeyja » Sun. Oct. 13, 2013 1:34 am

Great stove . I look forward to seeing the progress on it !


 
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SteveZee
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Post by SteveZee » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 9:45 am

You are pretty much all set for a back pipe because you have the "seat" in the back for it. The reason it doesn't have one is that it was set up for wood. Bryants (Maine) can get you the pipe and possibly the "inerds" too although these can be problematic to find. You can always make the flapper type as an alternative. You already have coal grates it looks like. As far as the tooth jump, you can take the grates out (two cotter pins and the whole frame will drop down and out) and realign them. You'll see that the gears have a wide tooth gap and a fat tooth on the opposing side. Mate these on each pair and they are aligned. It's a pain to reinstall the grates by oneself but if you have one to hold the frame back up, and a second to put the cotter pins back in, you're good to go. I might also add that sometimes the gears get sloppy/wobbly on thier respective grate. This is what causes the jump. I corrected this by replacing the cotter pin that hold the gear to the grate shaft with larger pin (they fit into a channel) that would not allow the gear to wobble. Hope this helps. I have the same stove and am very pleased with mine. It heats a 227yr old house on the coast of Maine with it's sister cookstove (Glenwood 208C) in the kitchen.

 
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auntievintage
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Post by auntievintage » Fri. Nov. 08, 2013 11:38 am

Well, as usual in our household, life took us in too many directions at once to get around to the 116 in the past few weeks. As the thermometer drops here, it has moved back up to priority #1. We had the season's coal delivered last week :D and my husband disassembled the stove last night! Image
We want to make sure the bottom is resealed and we wanted to align the grates:
Image
Image
We initially thought that the grates were quite bowed, but I am thinking now that they are meant to be a bit bowed because, now that they are aligned, they appear to be setting correctly. It took a bit of figuring before I saw the "doo-hickey" that I could lift up while my husband re-aligned the cogs.
Image
We found that there is one larger cog on each set of shakers, lined them up and its ready to go!
Image
Image
Tonight, I will be lining the fire pot with the Noxram while he takes a wire brush to the areas that we will be sealing.
I have been keeping my eye out for anyone advertising an old 116 that has the indirect vent pipe... I missed one by ONE DAY on CL in MA. :mad:
We are headed to Rhode Island for the weekend 11/16&11/17 so I will be keeping my eyes open on CL from CT-ME this week. Holler to me if anyone in New England knows of where I may find one. I do have a lead on one down in southern ME and I am in hopes that it is still available next weekend. If not, we'll be firing her up soon without it.

 
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SteveZee
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Post by SteveZee » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 11:48 am

You can just add a back pipe to yours. The innerds might be tricky to find but you might check with Bryants Stove in Thorndike, Maine. They could probably get you the pipe and the damper parts. Might have to cast those.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 12:15 pm

Good luck auntievintage! Nice lookin' stove, can't wait to see her fired up! Keep in mind there are folks in the area willing to help.

 
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dlj
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Post by dlj » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 1:42 pm

I was looking through this thread - yes you have a small broken top finial, Oh well, sure isn't going to change how the stove works and doesn't much affect what it looks like also. I can shoot you a photo if you want to see that detail on my stove that isn't broken.

I think all grates have some bow to them. Don't recall any that were perfectly straight. Mine aren't. As long as you can work them OK the fire sure doesn't know if they are bent or not... Good luck on your quest to find the back pipe. These stoves really kick out heat with or without. They do get more efficient running coal with, but you have to kinda be a "connoisseur" of your stove to really notice the difference. Burning wood you hardly use it... You are really doing one heck of a rebuild job on that stove - it will reward you with great performance...

What size coal did you get? You say you got your whole winters worth but I must have missed what size you got. I find these stoves do very well with stove coal.

Good luck and keep us posted on how it works for you.

dj

 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 2:18 pm

[email protected]

Auntie,

run a search on this string(I cant figure out how to make it a link) there is a glenwood with two back pipes :shock: Hope its what you need :D

Waldo

 
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Tim
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Post by Tim » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 2:37 pm

your grates look just fine!...keep up the good work...cant wait to see her all back together and fired up.

 
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auntievintage
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Other Heating: Oil forced luke-warm air

Post by auntievintage » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 5:23 pm

waldo lemieux wrote:[email protected]

Auntie,

run a search on this string(I cant figure out how to make it a link) there is a glenwood with two back pipes :shock: Hope its what you need :D

Waldo
THANK YOU! But I can't seem to get to the link, can you tell me which state it was in? Maybe I can search it.


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