Getting Ready to Install LL WL110

Schematic near half way down page can be enlarged...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/primary-secon ... ers.11837/

Anyone have some good, detailed pics of their 110 install? I took the plunge and tore out the old fuel oil boiler this morning.

Z10396 wrote:Anyone have some good, detailed pics of their 110 install? I took the plunge and tore out the old fuel oil boiler this morning.

Any one have any good, detailed pictures of their install? I have been sent pictures before but they are of units installed in tandem or different models. I haven't really seen anything that has helped me to lay out my system.

Z10396 wrote: I took the plunge and tore out the old fuel oil boiler this morning.

You the MAN

I am sure forum help is on the way

2001Sierra wrote:

Z10396 wrote: I took the plunge and tore out the old fuel oil boiler this morning.

You the MAN

I am sure forum help is on the way

I hope so. Just need some guidance. People have offered some but I haven't seen anything that has truly turned the light bulb on for me.

If you just removed the old boiler the install of the WL should just be the reverse. The only difference is the timer for idle fire. Plumbing should be the same.

As Flyer stated there is no unique requirement, but in your case looks like you are re-plumbing, so some sample schematics of basic hydronics are good to look at for ideas. I would suggest you work out the full plan before starting to prevent re-work and frustration (duh of course plan it first! ).

Since you are using zone valves, there is an alternate schematic to get your dump zone working (page 16 http://leisurelinestoves.com/files/44240843.pdf ). Also the WL has two outlets, one is a dip tube and one is flush with the top of the boiler pressure vessel. When using a bladder style expansion tank follow the plumbing schematic for that in the Axeman boiler manual (figure 3 http://leisurelinestoves.com/files/44240843.pdf ). The T for the 6006 high limit will be on the supply line right above the boiler so it can effectively monitor an overtemp condition and reset once flow through the dump zone is established. The pump does not have to be on the return, many feel that putting it down stream of the airscoop after a couple feet of straight pipe is an effective location.

One thing to remember is that differential temperature (supply Vs return temp) should not be more that 20 to 25 degrees, this will help deal with the small water volume of the WL110 and the nature of solid fuel being slow to recover (relatively speaking). You can accomplish the not letting the boiler get behind by setting the low and high limits close to each other so the circulator shuts off if the boiler gets below 160*F. The example for that would be high limit 185*F, low limit 175*F and LL diff at 10*F.

Not sure if this was any help, but hang in there, you will figure it out I'm sure, you can always PM myself or Flyer and we will offer our advice (just be careful, free advice can be worth exactly what you paid for it! ).

Best wishes for a successful project, you can do it!

What I am looking for is a listing of order of components from the feed through the return. I am a novice that know just the basics. I need some entry level instruction. Starting to wonder if I should farm the job out. Pictures or a schematic would be great...I haven't seen anything yet that helps me. How would someone go about installing a brand new house? I am starting from ground zero essentially.

Thanks

Got the boiler in place and started to install. Please see the pic. I set up the left side with the aquastat and pressure relief valve. I will use the right side as my feed. Is this okay this way?

I actually swapped these around, I am using a diaphragm tank so the manual states that I should use the right side as the feed/outlet. Do I look okay so far?

Updated pic.

Here is a link to some pics of my install. Im not saying that you should exactly duplicate what I did, or what anyone else has done for that matter. This is your install. Make it what you want it to be. Just remember, YOU have to work on it later so money saved on valves and unions will cost you sweat and anguish later. Cruise arond the thread I linked to, see what you like and what you don't like. Ask question and read. You only want to do this once, so do it right the first time.

Pictures of Your Boiler

There are 2 problems that I can see.

1) your PRV needs to be installed verticly. check out the Watts install guide, there are very good reasons to install it verticly. Doesn't the boiler have a small port on top for the PRV?

2) I'm not sure that is a good place to put the aquastat, it is not down in the boiler water and it is not in a branch that boiler water flows through. It will likely work but your burner may have to play catch-up due to the delayed signal. There should be a port in the side of the boiler for the aquastat.

I installed my boiler in January, I got a lot of great advice from this forum. You can see for your self at this thread Yellow Flame, A Christmas Stoker Boiler

It's a long one but, almost eveything you can think of is covered, including the PRV install. I made the same mistake you did.

-Don

Also, make sure your PRV is a 30 PSI PRESSURE ONLY relief valve. Not a pressure and temperature relief valve. You don't want this thing to open when the boiler water gets to 160 degrees.

-Don