Wow.. Electric heat
Dude you are gonna love coal!! I switched from pro-pain. My total energy bill used to be $2400 for a winter.. Now, with water coils to preheat DHW and keep my hot tub warm, my net energy bill for a winter is around $600
Tater1977 wrote:I am guessing 2 to 3 tons of coal per winter to heat, does this seem accurate ?
That seems a little lite. I'm heating the same space, older house, probably not as well insulated as yours and I burned 5 tons last year in a hand fed furnace. Even if you burn 5 tons to keep yer house 76 degrees all winter you will save a boatload of money!
Tater1977 wrote:Is this use of the insulated flex duct ok,
I used insulated flex duct. It seems ok to me. I think best case is the rigid metal duct but its no fun to work with. Insulated flex will get around anything easy. Its flexible hahaha..
Tater1977 wrote:Any issue using one cold air return per floor ? Can I safely run the furnace with no cold air return hooked up for a month or two, just taking in open basement air instead of ducted cold air ? What are the major disadvantages and or safety concerns with doing this ?
One cold air return per floor is good. I only have one cold air return for the whole house. If you are gonna run your furnace for a little while without a cold air return, you need to have a basement door (basement door in the house) kept open slightly so your house air can get back to the furnace. In a heating system, the air needs to make a loop - Furnace > To the house > Then back to the furnace otherwise efficiency is compromised big time..
Watch this, your furnace will raise the temperature of the incoming (cold air return) air a definitive amount. For me, its about 35-40 degrees. Air goes in at 70 and comes out the registers in the house at around 110 degress.. That's a 40 degree raise. SO, lets take that same 40 degree raise and add it to 50 degree air that your furnace is pulling off the basement floor (without a proper cold air return).. Now you have only 90 degrees exiting the registers in the house instead of 110..
And it gets worse if air from the house is totally cut off from the getting back to the furnace. In this situation, you pressurize the house and make it difficult to get warm air into the now closed off living space. ANd now the furnace is gulping even colder air since the air its getting is from infiltration from the outside. Its not a good situation.. If you can't get cold air returns put in yet, at least have a way for the air to make a complete loop back to the furnace, even if it means keeping a basement door open (between the basement and living space) a few inches.
Member "Rigar" is good with helping size your air ducts