A Boiler for This Old Dungeon With A Swimming Pool

 
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Sting
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Post by Sting » Mon. Oct. 28, 2013 9:15 am

Hold it closer to the phone so I can see what the problem is that you cannot explain ma'am ___ :D

REally -- just keep at it. Sometimes the old dead guys that installed these got creative and you just have to reverse engineer it


 
dalmatiangirl61
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Post by dalmatiangirl61 » Mon. Nov. 04, 2013 12:34 am

Sting
I saw that other sig pic last week, all I can say is WOW, I had no idea botox worked that well :lol:

Well I got the stoker pulled from the furnace, what a royal pia that was, plan for tomorrow is to disassemble it and get it home. There are several controls with this, one is a timer, and 2 Iron Fireman control boxes, wires have been disconnected in several locations. Does anyone have a schematic on how these parts go together to control the stoker?

 
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dcrane
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Post by dcrane » Mon. Nov. 04, 2013 4:31 am


 
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Sting
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Post by Sting » Mon. Nov. 04, 2013 8:39 am

dalmatiangirl61 wrote:Sting
I saw that other sig pic last week, all I can say is WOW, I had no idea botox worked that well :lol:

Well I got the stoker pulled from the furnace, what a royal pia that was, plan for tomorrow is to disassemble it and get it home. There are several controls with this, one is a timer, and 2 Iron Fireman control boxes, wires have been disconnected in several locations. Does anyone have a schematic on how these parts go together to control the stoker?
Hard work pays off!

 
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carlherrnstein
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Post by carlherrnstein » Mon. Nov. 04, 2013 10:58 am

Can you post some pictures of the control boxes inner workings and especially the electrical hookups.

 
dalmatiangirl61
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Post by dalmatiangirl61 » Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 8:26 pm

I got the stoker disassembled yesterday, had to wait for a friend to help me lug the hopper and gearbox up the stairs today. Ok, so its not an Iron Fireman, only name I can find on it is "Muncie Gear Works", a little googling and best info I can find is a sales catalog on ebay for "Master Stokers" http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atq-MASTER-COAL-AUTOMATIC ... 53ff35c026. If anyone wants to start an antique coal stoker museum I think I found a honey hole :lol:

Well at least this one just seems to be a plain gear box, but it might need a new auger........

Stopped in at the local coal dealer today, they carry 2 sizes, lump and "slack", with slack being 1" to dust. When I asked what type of coal it was they looked at me funny and said "Its coal, its black, it burns" :wtf: . So then I asked for a lab report, nothing but blank stares "uhh you'll have to call the mine". Price is $181 a ton, but they do not have a scale so they figure a cubic yard is a ton, from what I've read here that does not sound right.

Called the mine in Utah, they did not seem to be used to people asking for lab reports either, but they did have a few details. BTU is approx 10,650 per pound, ash is 14.6 , and sulpher is 56%. They carry lump, 1", rice, and slack, all oiled and all $49 a ton. They did provide an office number to call if I wanted a full lab report.

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Scottscoaled
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Post by Scottscoaled » Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 9:15 pm

I'd be worried about burning anything that has 56% sulphur. Doesn't sound right. The 1" size would be perfect for you. Better get going on that, winter is almost here. :)


 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 9:44 pm

You want to burn the largest size that will fit between the auger shaft and tube. from what sizes you've posted, looks like the one inch. 56 sulfur is probably .56% sulfur. 5.6% would be high for anything out west - only places where sulfur content that high is found is missouri and illinois; regardless is not 56% sulfur :lol: sulfur content is irrelevent in a clinkering-type underfeed stoker. What you want to be concerned with is Coke button- lower is better (if it's available) ash% and BTU content "AR" -as received.

The ash sounds high. there are many mines in utah that sell good stoker coal w/ BTU's much higher than what you've posted and ash% in the mid single digits. The price is decent, but the ash is high.

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 10:23 pm

That thing's got a Muncie tranny!! :up: No idea they were used in the heating business!! They are legendary in the automotive world. 8-)

 
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Post by dalmatiangirl61 » Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 4:10 pm

I called the Sufco mine office today and got the lab report, this is a "Short Proximate Analysis". Moisture, as recd 9.67, dry n/a.
Ash, as recd 13.67, dry 15.3. Sulphur as recd .33 , dry .37 . BTU as recd 10625 , dry 11762 . BTUMAF 13860 . Secretary said this is the current report, but they are getting into a different/better seam.

I called the Dugout Canyon and Skyline mines, both said they do not sell to the public. Talked to the old CMO from the local RR, he said the RR was getting its coal from Colorado, but he was not sure from which mine.

Yes Smitty I'm familiar with the Muncie name from my racing days, who would have guessed they made stoker transmissions too :lol: . Googled Muncie as many ways as I could think of last night, oddly there is more info on Muncie's boat motors (Neptune and Mighty Mite) than there is on the transmissions, only mention I found of the stokers is in the company history.

Job today is cleaning this thing up, and removing the auger so I can get to the front seal.

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 5:10 pm

Not that it matters much in the real world, but just in case anyone wants to know, "BTUMAF" means BTU's on a moisture and ash free basis.

 
dalmatiangirl61
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Post by dalmatiangirl61 » Wed. Nov. 06, 2013 7:54 pm

Well here is my assessment of the Stokol vs Muncie stokers, the Stokol appears to be a much more robust unit with a larger fan, larger auger, 5 feed speeds, and deeper tuyers. The Muncie only has 3 feed speeds.

Job #1 today was removing the auger from the Muncie transmission, the head of the bolt was very worn, socket could not get enough bite, and what little bite it got was just stripping the corners off. So I decided to just weld another bolt to it, let it cool for a few minutes and put a wrench on it, with barely any force it started turning, yay its going to come off eas.....SNAP, not even a 1/4 turn and the head of the original bolt sheared off, dooh! No easy-outs here so I just center punched it and started drilling. Drilled it to the point I could just see the tops of the threads in the auger and started prying, try as I might it was not giving, so I went ahead and drilled the threads out too, couple good whacks on the auger and it came off.

This auger is pretty well worn, are new augers available? Do they come in standard sizes? I can probably make do with this one for another year or 2, but if they are cheap and plentiful that might be a better option.

 
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Carbon12
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Post by Carbon12 » Thu. Nov. 07, 2013 11:13 am


 
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Post by Carbon12 » Thu. Nov. 07, 2013 4:27 pm


 
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Post by Carbon12 » Thu. Nov. 07, 2013 4:41 pm



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