New Harman Super Mag Ready to Fire

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Fri. Oct. 18, 2013 8:03 am

I just bought a new Super Mag..I've read many posts on the Harman Mag Stoker. But it seems the older stoker is different. The controls or setting panel is different isn't it? so the post's I'm reading may or have confused me. If this Super is different I hope there are many to chime in to help me.
I hope I can figure out in early fall and later spring how to keep it running low without going out. I work in the basement with it and the wife likes upstairs warm. I have the hot air blocked at the front and forced via ductwork to upstairs. My MarkIII I could idle down very low with pea in fall and spring..
Should I run the combustion blower all the time on this stove as well ? etc.
I did install permanently a manometer and field control. I kept the extra manometer hose I cut off to use to set the firebox pressure. The hole Harman has in the front for the pressure test is very small..1/4" maybe ? any ideas on what to put in there to connect the manometer?
I'll be using the room probe and will be extending it for near 30ft. Harman emailed me back saying it will work but will effect the readings on the stove. Not sure how much but I'll try that first. If there's a problem with either getting heat or too much I'll move it closer to the stove around 25ft as Harman recommends.
I figure to just fire it up this weekedn and see what happens for now.. doing is learning. oh yea I do have 2 Co detectors around the area..


 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 10:23 am

Man am I confused..just fired up the Super Mag for the first time....of course my alarms went off due to the new stove and the smell etc. I have a portable co detector and it didn't go off. I have good draft as well. I checked with a smoking piece of cotton around all the pipe joints and doors.. so no back pressure.

For one I don't understand the manometer readings yet. I had it set on zero before I started it. Cold chimney. After the fire got going It dropped down below zero and is hanging around the .05 mark. If I open the Baro damper all the way it will climb back towards zero. I have searched and will try again now to find what zero is on the meter. Harman says to be -.06 to -.08 ..Is that below zero still ? If so would that be between the -.05 and zero I guess.

 
User avatar
coalkirk
Member
Posts: 5185
Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
Location: Forest Hill MD
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal

Post by coalkirk » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 10:34 am

Well we'll assume your smoke detectors are going off from stove paint burning off. But it sounds like like you have the manometer hooked up wrong. Should look like this.
mano1.JPG
.JPG | 156.5KB | mano1.JPG
mano2.JPG
.JPG | 95.2KB | mano2.JPG
The line to your smoke pipe should come off of the low side of the mano and the high side should be open to the atmosphere.

EDIT; Crap! pictures are sideways but you get the idea.

 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14652
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 11:37 am

I assume you are using the Dwyer Mark II model 25 right? CoalKirk is right. We set these up "backwards" so that negative pressure is read on the positive side of the scale.. That way there is more available scale to read since it goes higher than we'll ever need.

Attachments

IMG_20130125_183825.jpg
.JPG | 99.1KB | IMG_20130125_183825.jpg

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 1:04 pm

Everything is good as far as hook up with the stove,control baro. The manometer Is backwards from yours. My line from the stove is plugged into the high side of the manometer.
So by reversing the feed from the stove to the low side it goes up the tube when the pressure is getting higher in the fire box? I see in the picture that between the red and blue arrow it would now mean because of the switch . -.01 to -.05. right?
I switched mine to like yours and it reads just like your picture with the arrows. . It's idled down now very nice as I turned it down to the lowest setting and want to see what upstairs reads in the morning. Today was mild out.
So how would the barometer play into this? and of course there is the blower flap as well.
Last edited by captcaper on Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 1:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14652
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 1:42 pm

captcaper wrote:So by reversing the feed from the stove to the low side it goes up the tube when the pressure is getting higher in the fire box? I see in the picture that between the red and blue arrow it would now mean because of the switch . -.01 to -.05. right?
Answer to the first question here is, no the "pressure" isn't getting higher its actually that the vacumm or negative pressure is getting stronger...

Answer to the second question is yes...
captcaper wrote:So how would the barometer play into this? and of course there is the blower flap as well.
Do you mean barometric damper? And someone with stoker experience would need to answer about the blower flap.

:D

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 1:46 pm

The over fire draft is the one that counts since it takes into account the pressure drop through the unit. Use a piece of rubber hose that is heat resistant from the auto supply a few inches long. The hose from the manometer goes inside one end and a piece of metal tube of copper or steel in the other to insert into that 1.4 inch hole. With the unit running and with the chimney and stove up to heat, adjust the baro to the spec. recommended by Harman for over fire draft.

You can then check the draft at the flue exit to see the difference. Draft should be higher at that point. Any change in that difference might indicate a buildup of fly ash, or a change in combustion air delivered.


 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 1:54 pm

Sorry I did mean Barometric Damper.. So with the manometer hose hooked up reversed the oil should show it self up higher in the tube when hooked up to the front of the firebox and when the manometer is hooked up to the flue before the damper it should read lower. This is again with the hose hooked up on the low side of the manometer. Opposite of what Dwyer said to do.

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 2:02 pm

It should read higher at the flue exit than over the fire. Be sure to zero the unit before hooking up.

Basically you want air sucking into that little hole in the fire door, it should pull a match flame in with the unit running. The manometer tells you how much that pull is. Too much and heat is exiting too fast and too little there might be danger of fumes escaping.

The purpose of the barometric damper is to keep that pull constant even though the chimney draft changes with temperature and barometric pressure. Without it the fire will vary with those changes.

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Sun. Oct. 20, 2013 2:20 pm

franco b wrote:It should read higher at the flue exit than over the fire. Be sure to zero the unit before hooking up.

Basically you want air sucking into that little hole in the fire door, it should pull a match flame in with the unit running. The manometer tells you how much that pull is. Too much and heat is exiting too fast and too little there might be danger of fumes escaping.

The purpose of the barometric damper is to keep that pull constant even though the chimney draft changes with temperature and barometric pressure. Without it the fire will vary with those changes.
I see now how it would show the pressure differences. Thanks...
I did set it at zero before firing it up. I'm in between the arrows now with the unit running on low like in the picture above and hooked up reversed.
I'll take a reading in the front hole tomorrow to compare.. I'm looking forward to tomorrow morning to see what temps I'll be at in our living room upstairs and compare to the stove temp markings.
Harman says to adjust the blower flap to achieve the firebox specs. I'll take my readings at the stove flue and then the fire box front and compare then adjust the blower flap to spec's.

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 5:21 am

Lightning wrote:I assume you are using the Dwyer Mark II model 25 right? CoalKirk is right. We set these up "backwards" so that negative pressure is read on the positive side of the scale.. That way there is more available scale to read since it goes higher than we'll ever need.
I have the baro hooked up with 1/4" copper tubeing to about 2 ft from the meter on the wall behind it. I reversed it like yours. With a good fire going this morning..(35 deg's out here) It is reading at the blue arrow in your picture. The Fields control is open about 2 inches. If I force it open all the way the red oil goes up the tube to 7 or 8 the most.
What do you think? Harman says to be -.06 to -.08 at the flue. Wouldn't that be above the blue arrow and if so I should adjust the baro to open more ? Or maybe it's time to try closeing the combustion flap a little.

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 5:21 am

Lightning wrote:I assume you are using the Dwyer Mark II model 25 right? CoalKirk is right. We set these up "backwards" so that negative pressure is read on the positive side of the scale.. That way there is more available scale to read since it goes higher than we'll ever need.
I have the baro hooked up with 1/4" copper tubeing to about 2 ft from the meter on the wall behind it. I reversed it like yours. With a good fire going this morning..(35 deg's out here) It is reading at the blue arrow in your picture. The Fields control is open about 2 inches. If I force it open all the way the red oil goes up the tube to 7 or 8 the most.
What do you think? Harman says to be -.06 to -.08 at the flue. Wouldn't that be above the blue arrow and if so I should adjust the baro to open more ? Or maybe it's time to try closeing the combustion flap a little.

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 5:21 am

Lightning wrote:I assume you are using the Dwyer Mark II model 25 right? CoalKirk is right. We set these up "backwards" so that negative pressure is read on the positive side of the scale.. That way there is more available scale to read since it goes higher than we'll ever need.
I have the baro hooked up with 1/4" copper tubeing to about 2 ft from the meter on the wall behind it. I reversed it like yours. With a good fire going this morning..(35 deg's out here) It is reading at the blue arrow in your picture. The Fields control is open about 2 inches. If I force it open all the way the red oil goes up the tube to 7 or 8 the most.
What do you think? Harman says to be -.06 to -.08 at the flue. Wouldn't that be above the blue arrow and if so I should adjust the baro to open more ? Or maybe it's time to try closeing the combustion flap a little.

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 5:21 am

Lightning wrote:I assume you are using the Dwyer Mark II model 25 right? CoalKirk is right. We set these up "backwards" so that negative pressure is read on the positive side of the scale.. That way there is more available scale to read since it goes higher than we'll ever need.
I have the baro hooked up with 1/4" copper tubeing to about 2 ft from the meter on the wall behind it. I reversed it like yours. With a good fire going this morning..(35 deg's out here) It is reading at the blue arrow in your picture. The Fields control is open about 2 inches. If I force it open all the way the red oil goes up the tube to 7 or 8 the most.
What do you think? Harman says to be -.06 to -.08 at the flue. Wouldn't that be above the blue arrow and if so I should adjust the baro to open more ? Or maybe it's time to try closeing the combustion flap a little.

 
User avatar
captcaper
Member
Posts: 724
Joined: Thu. May. 29, 2008 11:55 am
Location: Northern N.H.

Post by captcaper » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 5:21 am

Lightning wrote:I assume you are using the Dwyer Mark II model 25 right? CoalKirk is right. We set these up "backwards" so that negative pressure is read on the positive side of the scale.. That way there is more available scale to read since it goes higher than we'll ever need.
I have the baro hooked up with 1/4" copper tubeing to about 2 ft from the meter on the wall behind it. I reversed it like yours. With a good fire going this morning..(35 deg's out here) It is reading at the blue arrow in your picture. The Fields control is open about 2 inches. If I force it open all the way the red oil goes up the tube to 7 or 8 the most.
What do you think? Harman says to be -.06 to -.08 at the flue. Wouldn't that be above the blue arrow and if so I should adjust the baro to open more ? Or maybe it's time to try closeing the combustion flap a little.


Post Reply

Return to “Stoker Coal Furnaces & Stoves Using Anthracite (Hot Air)”