Frozen Loading Door Handle.

 
User avatar
EarthWindandFire
Member
Posts: 1594
Joined: Sat. Dec. 18, 2010 12:02 pm
Location: Connecticut
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Leisure Line Lil' Heater.
Other Heating: Oil Furnace and Kerosene Heaters.

Post by EarthWindandFire » Fri. Oct. 18, 2013 6:30 pm

The handle on my loading door is frozen in the open position. I removed the hex nut but I'm nervous applying force on a door made of cast-iron since a new door is almost 300 dollars. I could see myself snapping the door using too much force. Any suggestions?


 
User avatar
tsb
Member
Posts: 2616
Joined: Wed. Jul. 30, 2008 8:38 pm
Location: Douglassville, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II
Baseburners & Antiques: Grander Golden Oak , Glenwood # 6
Coal Size/Type: All of them

Post by tsb » Fri. Oct. 18, 2013 6:49 pm

Mine used to freeze every year. Just a little WD-40 and let it
sit for a while. Work it back and forth slowly. It'll break loose.

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Fri. Oct. 18, 2013 7:05 pm

When you get it loose use some anti seize on it to prevent it happening again.

 
User avatar
VigIIPeaBurner
Member
Posts: 2579
Joined: Fri. Jan. 11, 2008 10:49 am
Location: Pequest River Valley, Warren Co NJ
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker Koker(down)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Casting Vigilant II 2310
Other Heating: #2 Oil Furnace

Post by VigIIPeaBurner » Fri. Oct. 18, 2013 8:23 pm

Propane torch. Flame the door around the latch, not on the latch, on the inside of the door to get it hot. Try working the handle back and forth. Repeat. If you don't get enough movement, let it cool and then try penetrating oil.

 
User avatar
buffalo bob
Member
Posts: 961
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 12:41 pm
Location: scpa. bedford co. buffalo mills
Hand Fed Coal Stove: hitzer 354 and a 254
Coal Size/Type: anthracite nut

Post by buffalo bob » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 6:26 am

a good dose of P B buster before bed and call me in the morning...

 
User avatar
coalkirk
Member
Posts: 5185
Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
Location: Forest Hill MD
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal

Post by coalkirk » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 6:44 am

Kroil. Best stuff ever for this type of problem.

 
fifthg
Verified Business Rep.
Posts: 356
Joined: Mon. Aug. 03, 2009 10:11 am
Location: southern anthracite field,Schuylkill County,Pa.
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: warm morning # 500
Baseburners & Antiques: Peninsular Western Hot Blast No.44K and Reading Foundry & Supply Co.

Post by fifthg » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 7:35 am

yup,aero-kroil,by kano laboratories,www.kanolabs.com,really is better than anything else,just harder to find.the anti-seize before storage after shut-down to be sure.


 
User avatar
VigIIPeaBurner
Member
Posts: 2579
Joined: Fri. Jan. 11, 2008 10:49 am
Location: Pequest River Valley, Warren Co NJ
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker Koker(down)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Casting Vigilant II 2310
Other Heating: #2 Oil Furnace

Post by VigIIPeaBurner » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 8:36 am

coalkirk wrote:Kroil. Best stuff ever for this type of problem.
Indeed! When you buy a can of that, buy their spray graphite. Kano Labs even makes a high temperature graphite labeled for use in stokers (we should coop this stuff!). Once the handle is moving, spay the graphite on and work it it. While your at it, spray your hing pins and other moving parts with the graphite. So this and the stove will be in good shape for your heirs ;) I suggested the heat first because if you use oil first, the next option is heat and the penetrating oil smoke isn't the best stuff to breath :sick:

 
User avatar
EarthWindandFire
Member
Posts: 1594
Joined: Sat. Dec. 18, 2010 12:02 pm
Location: Connecticut
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Leisure Line Lil' Heater.
Other Heating: Oil Furnace and Kerosene Heaters.

Post by EarthWindandFire » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 9:11 am

I need to light the stove soon, in the next few days, and the oil didn't do much over night. The handle moves but barely, not enough to make the door open and close. Is the handle a one-piece unit that runs through the cast iron door or can it be disassembled? If I can take it apart maybe I can drill the hole larger or sand the part of the handle that passes through the door thinner. My wood stove buddies have doors that are made differently and the handles are adjustable to prevent this problem.

 
top top
Member
Posts: 574
Joined: Sat. Apr. 13, 2013 5:40 am

Post by top top » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 9:30 am

EarthWindandFire wrote:I need to light the stove soon, in the next few days, and the oil didn't do much over night. .....
What kind of oil? WD-40 and PB Blaster is a waste of time and money. Order some Kroil from Kano. If you just can't wait buy some Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil locally, it's almost as good as Kroil. Be sure it is penetrant not lubricant. Liquid Wrench makes both. A homemade brew of acetone and Dexron 50/50 mix is said to be better than Kroil, but I never used it so I can't say. If possible, remove the door and position it so the penetrating oil will be drawn into the problem area by gravity.

 
User avatar
VigIIPeaBurner
Member
Posts: 2579
Joined: Fri. Jan. 11, 2008 10:49 am
Location: Pequest River Valley, Warren Co NJ
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker Koker(down)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Casting Vigilant II 2310
Other Heating: #2 Oil Furnace

Post by VigIIPeaBurner » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 9:44 am

EarthWindandFire wrote:I need to light the stove soon, in the next few days, and the oil didn't do much over night. The handle moves but barely, not enough to make the door open and close....>8 ...
My door handle latch has frozen and acted just the same. If it's moving a little, put more penetrant on it and keep moving it back and forth within the moven't zone you now have. Don't push it too hard past where it wants to stop moving. If it's a long handle watch how much leverage you have on your side and take it easy or choke up on the handle. Keep moving it back and forth against where it stops and work in a few drops of penetrant oil every so often. You'll gain on it. It's not a good idea to drill it out because you're essentially making a air leak and exasperating a wear zone in the door. Just hit it with powder or liquid graphite every so often (edit-) after you have it back to normal travel.
Last edited by VigIIPeaBurner on Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 11:02 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30293
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 10:31 am

tap it gently with a small ball-peen back & forth as far as it will travel on it's own--it will loosen up--none of that penetrating stuff is magic--ya got to get firm & knock whatever is binding loosened up

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 11:34 am

freetown fred wrote:tap it gently with a small ball-peen back & forth as far as it will travel on it's own--it will loosen up--none of that penetrating stuff is magic--ya got to get firm & knock whatever is binding loosened up
That's the best advice. Setting up vibration allows the oil to penetrate. You don't have to hit hard.

 
User avatar
EarthWindandFire
Member
Posts: 1594
Joined: Sat. Dec. 18, 2010 12:02 pm
Location: Connecticut
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Leisure Line Lil' Heater.
Other Heating: Oil Furnace and Kerosene Heaters.

Post by EarthWindandFire » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 11:45 am

It's soaking in Liquid Wrench penetrating oil right now. I keep moving it back and forth every fifteen minutes or so. This should work, hopefully by tomorrow.

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Sat. Oct. 19, 2013 11:49 am

Once you get even the slightest movement you are on the way.


Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”