Infloor Heat

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CoalBurner5
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Post by CoalBurner5 » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 12:49 pm

Huge house (approximately 5,000sq ft) currently broken into 3 zones. Running of EFM DF520

Zone 1
2500sq ft house heated with cast iron radiators. Currently set up on demand for heat.

Zone 2
Second floor approximately 1250sq ft currently set up on a demand for heat by thermostat like zone 1.

Zone 3
First floor approximately 1250sq ft. currently installing infloor heat. 5 Different circuits all close in length 250ish feet.

WHAT IS THE BEST and most EFFICIENT way to set this up?

1. I've seen setups where people put a mixing value at the infloor heat manifold to mix a cooler water temp back into the infloor heat zone. And by doing that you keep your radiators (or on demand heat) much higher then the below mentioned set up.

2. Method two is set the coal boiler to run between 90-120 limits (or whatever limits are sufficient) and circulate the water 24/7 at a much lower temp.

Which method will be most efficient and use the least amount of coal? Any thoughts or ideas?

 
Dirty Steve
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Post by Dirty Steve » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 3:44 pm

Mixing valve and keep the boiler above 140 to avoid "problems". 3 or 4 way mixing valve which puts the return radiant water back in to bring temp down to 120 degree- especially important under tile floor.

 
CoalBurner5
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Post by CoalBurner5 » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 4:46 pm

Just curious what "problems" might occur if I decide to lower temp.

Also if you could give me a name of a good mixing valve to use that would be awesome.

Thanks

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 5:07 pm

CoalBurner5 wrote:Just curious what "problems" might occur if I decide to lower temp.

Also if you could give me a name of a good mixing valve to use that would be awesome.

Thanks
The acidic gasses given off by burning coal condense to a liquid at somewhere around 145 degrees, and this liquid (moisture) will rot out the flue and eventually the boiler itself.

Taco makes nice mixing valves. So does Honeywell.


 
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tsb
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Post by tsb » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 6:34 pm

If you don't want to use valves, you could make the
floor loop separate and use a water to water exchanger
with its own circulator and thermostat. It would take
some other things too, but it's another way to do it.

 
CoalBurner5
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Post by CoalBurner5 » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 6:47 pm

My game plan was to put a manifold on for the infloor heat and run 5 different "circuits" for the infloor heat.

All the loops are pulled already, all the transfer plates and the reflective bubble insulation will be up by the weekend. I guess what I was looking for was suggestions on what manifold I should use and what mixing valve I should order. If anyone could give me some good suggestions I would appreciate it. I've been ordering things so far from pexuniverse.

Thanks

 
Mark (PA)
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Post by Mark (PA) » Mon. Oct. 21, 2013 9:24 pm

Speaking from Experience

Mixing Valve

Taco 5000 series

http://www.taco-hvac.com/products.html?current_category=116

Pex Universe Link : 3/4" Not sure what size your piping is but.. you get the idea

http://www.pexuniverse.com/store/product/taco-500 ... xing-valve

Manifold

Watts Radiant Stainless Steel - HANDS Down the best manifold I personally have used. These are great manifolds for the long haul. Although I'm sure there are other good ones out there...

Unfortunetly I did not see them on the PexUniverse Site..... :cry: :cry: :shock: :shock:
743189459_260.jpg
.JPG | 18.2KB | 743189459_260.jpg
Manifold PDF attached.

Buy now...
http://www.pexheat.com/Catalog/Stainless-Steel-Manifolds

Attachments

wr_manifolds_stainlesssteel_brochure-en.pdf
.PDF | 885.5KB | wr_manifolds_stainlesssteel_brochure-en.pdf

 
CoalBurner5
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Post by CoalBurner5 » Tue. Oct. 22, 2013 1:51 pm

Not sure which mixing valve is better to use for the efm520 operating the infloor heat. Can I get by with a mixing valve or do I have to get the 3 way mixing valve? What's the difference and is it worth the upgrade to the 3 way mixing valve.


 
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Sting
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Post by Sting » Tue. Oct. 22, 2013 2:11 pm

you can simply build/add a temperature reducing manifold with two valves and a fist full of inexpensive fittings - no need for all that fancy smancy junk

use it to supply the infloor and send boiler temp energy out to the cast radiation- you can have two or twenty zones -

vary the boiler (never below 145 degrees) to increase as the out degree days wax and wane with a outdoor reset control over the main aquastat

 
CoalBurner5
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Post by CoalBurner5 » Tue. Oct. 22, 2013 5:11 pm

I am above average DIY person but when it comes to heating I don't pretend to know much. I just don't understand how to set it all up and branch off to radiators as well. If anyone has a good diagram of how to set this up it would be appreciated otherwise I'm probably going to have to get raked over the coals ( no pun intended) by an hvac business.

 
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Sting
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Post by Sting » Thu. Oct. 24, 2013 8:10 am

Buy these and read them
No two installations are alike - there is no silver bullet to give you - you have to learn how to sort out the BS and install (or have installed) the right stuff

http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Super-Deals/1 ... h-The-Flow

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