24 Hour Burn and Still Going!

Dcrane, did the Crane stoves has (really) passages for air over the fire ? If so could you elaborate on it? If not just
Thanks

Sorry if I come back again on the same question about air over the fire.
The only or most important things I want to know is:
Does opening or closing the over the fire air control helps or not the blues ? Then: more blues or less blues. If repeating a few times this simple observations we are supposed to get a more "" scientific ""result.
If burning the blues is supposed to gives more heat than leaving these gasses go out in the chimney, it should be easy to measure the temp. variations according to the blues: on / off /or / middle / on the dancing stage ???
Before drilling sec.air holes in the Sunnyside, I just want to be shure of it
If nobody can give me a real answer on it, just forget the question, I can make a lot of suppositions by myself.............

nortcan wrote:Before drilling sec.air holes in the Sunnyside, I just want to be shure of it
If nobody can give me a real answer on it, just forget the question, I can make a lot of suppositions by myself.............

From what I have seen your suppositions are better than most.

A possible way to answer the question is to load the stove in such a way as to make the burning of gasses the most likely and then to load in the opposite way to see the difference in coal burned and temperature produced during the burn cycle.

Loading a measured amount of coal all at once will result in a period where it takes a lot longer to get up to heat and burn gasses and more will go up the chimney. Measure stove temp. and stack temp.

Next take that same measured amount of coal only load it in small amounts very frequently during the burn time. Doing it this way will keep temperatures up and should result in more gasses burning. Keep air supply the same for both methods. I think you will see a difference in the average stove top temp..

nortcan wrote:Dcrane, did the Crane stoves has (really) passages for air over the fire ? If so could you elaborate on it? If not just
Thanks

yes bro... Crane stoves have passages for secondary over fire air (on a 404 which you have I believe)... they run around the perimeter/outside of the cast liner (on the 44/Crane coal cooker) they run on the forward two corners (you cant see them unless you stick your head into the 8" top door and look back )

P.S. this thread is the craziest thing ever... 3000 views in a week its insanity!

nortcan wrote:Sorry if I come back again on the same question about air over the fire.
The only or most important things I want to know is:
Does opening or closing the over the fire air control helps or not the blues ? Then: more blues or less blues. If repeating a few times this simple observations we are supposed to get a more "" scientific ""result.
If burning the blues is supposed to gives more heat than leaving these gasses go out in the chimney, it should be easy to measure the temp. variations according to the blues: on / off /or / middle / on the dancing stage ???
Before drilling sec.air holes in the Sunnyside, I just want to be shure of it
If nobody can give me a real answer on it, just forget the question, I can make a lot of suppositions by myself.............

I really think about drilling holes in the Baltimore Heater. What they did then sometimes was to drill tiny holes in a few of the mica panels to admit secondary air. Also some of the stoves had gaps around the mica panes to allow secondary air in.
I would just do what they did for experiments before I started drilling on a 150 year old stove.

dcrane wrote: yes bro... Crane stoves have passages for secondary over fire air (on a 404 which you have I believe)... they run around the perimeter/outside of the cast liner (on the 44/Crane coal cooker) they run on the forward two corners (you cant see them unless you stick your head into the 8" top door and look back )

P.S. this thread is the craziest thing ever... 3000 views in a week its insanity!

Thanks for answering Dc.
Do you have any photo or hand made drawing showing these air passages, seem very good idea.
P/S, I don't have a Crane stove, a Golden Bride and a Sunnyside

wsherrick wrote: I really think about drilling holes in the Baltimore Heater. What they did then sometimes was to drill tiny holes in a few of the mica panels to admit secondary air. Also some of the stoves had gaps around the mica panes to allow secondary air in.
I would just do what they did for experiments before I started drilling on a 150 year old stove.

Will, when I restored the Sunny, I did about what you said: I din't seal the mica on their frames like I did for the Bride and made some slot at the base of the mica, not on each one but the 3 center ones. For the holes to drill, yes I still waiting for someone giving statistic results on a few days of testings. My dream is to know if closing the over the f. ports stop or reduce the blues rate on a repeated scedule. Thanks

nortcan wrote:Sorry if I come back again on the same question about air over the fire.
The only or most important things I want to know is:

My dream is to know if closing the over the f. ports stop or reduce the blues rate on a repeated schedule. Thanks

nortcan,

I don't have a stove like yours but I did have a great curiousity about this question of over fire air impact on "blue" production, so I came home and closed off the access of over fire air to my firebox to see what would happen.

in this case, I already had 4" blues active in various places around the bottom of the hopper in my stove. with in 5 mins. of blocking the over air, the height of the "blues" had INCREASED and they had started from the whole top of the bed.

i think this is due to the over fire draft exerting more draw thru the bed as a consequence and the result was the gases coming up out of the bed faster and in greater quantity and igniting in the already present flames.

I added some pics to this thread concerning secondary air..

Importance of Over Fire Air & Blue Flames

yep, even at 125* low burn output my fire looks like the pitch dark 15 second exposure. even in room light.

KingCoal wrote: nortcan,

I don't have a stove like yours but I did have a great curiousity about this question of over fire air impact on "blue" production, so I came home and closed off the access of over fire air to my firebox to see what would happen.

in this case, I already had 4" blues active in various places around the bottom of the hopper in my stove. with in 5 mins. of blocking the over air, the height of the "blues" had INCREASED and they had started from the whole top of the bed.

i think this is due to the over fire draft exerting more draw thru the bed as a consequence and the result was the gases coming up out of the bed faster and in greater quantity and igniting in the already present flames.

Very good observations, that is exactly the kind of ""testings"" I'm looking for. Thanks

Lightning wrote:I added some pics to this thread concerning secondary air..

Importance of Over Fire Air & Blue Flames

Yes, good job. Thanks

nortcan wrote: Very good observations, that is exactly the kind of ""testings"" I'm looking for. Thanks

your certainly welcome, glad to add something helpful.