First Time FC RC Baro User, Questions

Hope you don't mind me jumpin' in, try both individually or like lightning did and he uses both, or neither because you have a bi-metal damper, or wash your hands 200 times a day (trying to cut the debate off and inject some humor) as long as you are happy with your results and sleep warm and well all is good. I would tell you what I do but that doesn't matter. There are choices and we all have that freedom.......well kinda'. Good luck and let us know what YOU! think. That is all that matters.

nope, don't mind at all, and thanks for the reply. that said..............

HEY, I've got an idea !!

since I can change the "effects" of the present draft in the fire box according to the way i'm operating the stove, why don't I go by Graingers and pick up a Dwyer Mark 11 25 manometer on the way home and see what level of draft i'm dealing with to START with. THEN form the route I myself am going to take ?

DOH' Homer, I don't know, WHY don't cha' ?

KingCoal wrote:nope, don't mind at all, and thanks for the reply. that said..............

HEY, I've got an idea !!

since I can change the "effects" of the present draft in the fire box according to the way i'm operating the stove, why don't I go by Graingers and pick up a Dwyer Mark 11 25 manometer on the way home and see what level of draft i'm dealing with to START with. THEN form the route I myself am going to take ?

DOH' Homer, I don't know, WHY don't cha' ?

That's the ticket partner!

OK, now I have a Dwyer Mark ll 25. and of course there's no way i'm using the plastic nipples for even a quick check.

many of you have used brass fittings and as I suspected used a washer and nut on the INSIDE of the pipe to make sure it stayed there.

has anyone under sized the hole slightly and force threaded a brass fitting into the pipe with no inner retainer and had it stay ?

2 weeks from now we have a couple 60* days forecast and I could let it go out and separate the pipe if nec.

KingCoal wrote:2 weeks from now we have a couple 60* days forecast and I could let it go out and separate the pipe if nec.

Shut her down and install it properly when the warm days arrive.

in my best Red Green tone," all right, if I have to , I guess"

KingCoal wrote:OK, now I have a Dwyer Mark ll 25....has anyone under sized the hole slightly
and force threaded a brass fitting into the pipe with no inner retainer and had it stay ?

Yes.
I used a 3/16" brass brake line, and a fitting that has pipe threads on one end.
I used a pipe tap to get the right size, did NOT over tightnen, and it has been there
since day one.. Not an issue.

Dan

KingCoal wrote:has anyone under sized the hole slightly and force threaded a brass fitting into the pipe with no inner retainer and had it stay ?

I used a 1/8" compression fitting. I didn't want to shut down my stove so I drilled the hole slightly smaller than the fitting a gently threaded the fitting into the pipe. I was careful not to overtighten the fitting, I didn't want to strip the hole...then I would have to shut down . I plan on putting a nut on the backside of the fitting...when I shut down. So far no problems. Nice, tight connection with no air leaking.

Here is the link with pictures: Dwyer Mark II Manometer

Good luck!

Steve,

I used 3/16" brake tubing. Drilled the hole slightly smaller and worked the tubing into the hole so it was a snug fit. Didn't use a fitting, just the tubing through the hole (have probably 2" or so inside the pipe). Secured the tubing to the floor joists above so it can go further in or come out, and it's good to go .

I'm sure some will disagree with this, saying it needs to be sealed, etc. Works great though and doesn't require getting inside the flue pipe .

Hope this helps,

Joe

jschaefer7406 wrote:Steve,

I used 3/16" brake tubing. Drilled the hole slightly smaller and worked the tubing into the hole so it was a snug fit. Didn't use a fitting, just the tubing through the hole (have probably 2" or so inside the pipe). Secured the tubing to the floor joists above so it can go further in or come out, and it's good to go .

I'm sure some will disagree with this, saying it needs to be sealed, etc. Works great though and doesn't require getting inside the flue pipe .

Hope this helps,

Joe

I did exactly the same but drilled the hole in the flue pipe a hair bigger. I also crimped a little piece of tin onto the brake line to act as a stop so it could only penetrate the pipe a couple inches and no further. Correct, it doesn't have to be sealed against the flue pipe. I like this arrangement because I can pull it out of the pipe whenever I want to check calibration. Also, to make sure the brake line hole isn't clogged with any fly ash. The rubber hose that comes with the mano fits snuggly over the brake line. This connection MUST be air tight.

ok, I hooked up the Baro. and right now, on bead #4, dial on 2.25, intake flap closed, 200* stove top and gusting winds I have these readings.

when wind is 12 and under, -.04-.06 when wind is 14-16, -.07-.09

since we're looking for a uniform -.06 it looks like i'll have to employ a damper, the wind is going to be much higher and sustained than this further into the season.

side note, got the fire bed full and added a full hopper of coal over it at 5:30pm Monday night and left it unattended till tonight at 5:30pm, no shake downs, no added coal. stove ran at 200* the whole time.

going off my experience with the amount of coal it takes to replace levels in the fuel bed i'd say I must have used 48#'s of coal over the period too or very roughly 1 # per hour. WAY better than I could have done with my last stove.

KingCoal wrote:ok, I hooked up the Baro. and right now, on bead #4, dial on 2.25, intake flap closed, 200* stove top and gusting winds I have these readings.

when wind is 12 and under, -.04-.06 when wind is 14-16, -.07-.09

since we're looking for a uniform -.06 it looks like i'll have to employ a damper, the wind is going to be much higher and sustained than this further into the season.

side note, got the fire bed full and added a full hopper of coal over it at 5:30pm Monday night and left it unattended till tonight at 5:30pm, no shake downs, no added coal. stove ran at 200* the whole time.

going off my experience with the amount of coal it takes to replace levels in the fuel bed i'd say I must have used 48#'s of coal over the period too or very roughly 1 # per hour. WAY better than I could have done with my last stove.

You did not say if the flap was wide open when the wind was 14 to 16, also what your initial setting was with no wind. Don't forget your thermostat will compensate for sustained winds also, just not quickly.

setting had been constant for 48 hrs. and as stated in first line.

the house is saturated at 70* and the flap was still closed during the 14 - 16 mph gusting.

i guess the ability to pull varying levels of draft on a closed intake flap is because of the fixed, constant secondary air.

I think we have a misunderstanding. I believe Franco was referring to the barometric door. Did it open during wind gusts?