First Time FC RC Baro User, Questions

i've been reading the archives and instructions on these contraptions and am ignorantly dubious.

firstly, has anyone actually installed one of these via the cut your pipe open and strap the snout on process ? at the surface this seems to me to be an invitation to leakage but as I type this I realize probably no more than what seems to me the massive clearances on the unit itself.

secondly, whats up with the adjustment. the factory puts brackets on the unit with slashes and #'s supposedly calibrated to draft force operation then states that the unit is so sensitive that instrumentation MUST be used.

really, give me a break. it seems to me this thing is going to alter the draft by bypassing more air than it's likely to control on purpose. how minutely does it need to be adjusted ?

as I said, never used one before and would like input.

thanks,
steve

I love my barometric. I have the same one. It controls negative pressure in the stove which results in a consistent heat output. My hand fed furnace will only vary a few degrees throughout a 15 hour burn without any primary air fiddling, thanks to this cool little ingenious contraption.

I cut a hole in my pipe and strapped it on. Then I went around the seams with high temp silicone.

The adjustment markings are only for rough adjustment. In my opinion everyone with a coal appliance should have a manometer, not only to help adjust draft, but also to warn you during warm temps outside of a potential draft failure.

ignorantly dubious? I like that phrase. I think thats all of us.

Yes to the manometer. Gotta have it whether you use the damper or not. Try your stove using the damper for a while, then cover it up and try it. See which way you like better. Usually the manufacturer knows best but not always as every house and chimney are different. There are a lot of topics on here that discuss/argue the plus's and minus's of them. I used one for 2 years then went without it last year and like it better without. You may not have the same results.

If there is no wind it may not open at all but they usually open some most of the time if you have a good draft, which I do. If it squeeks on you, powdered graphite is an easy cure.

Personally with my draft situation, I wouldn't touch a baro with a 10 ft. pole. Just sayin---As individuals, we know what our draft/wind situation is--I'm damn sure not going to complicate my life anymore then I need to because something works real well for someone else. KISS

warminmn wrote:ignorantly dubious? I like that phrase. I think thats all of us.

Yes to the manometer. Gotta have it whether you use the damper or not. Try your stove using the damper for a while, then cover it up and try it. See which way you like better. Usually the manufacturer knows best but not always as every house and chimney are different. There are a lot of topics on here that discuss/argue the plus's and minus's of them. I used one for 2 years then went without it last year and like it better without. You may not have the same results.

If there is no wind it may not open at all but they usually open some most of the time if you have a good draft, which I do. If it squeeks on you, powdered graphite is an easy cure.

yeah, I just made that up, but it explains my position. I don't have experience with these at all and although i'm an "archive tunnel rat" I haven't ferreted out much testimony concerning their use with auto damper stoves like mine, ( there are PLENTY of lively chats regarding dampers for and with manually regulated stoves and / or stokers though. you guys know who you are. ) so i'm not convinced AND am double minded about it.

Auto damper as in one that automatically adjusts combustion air based on stove temp? Then no, probably not quite so necessary. May make it run smoother with less temperature variance. Maybe not.

My Old Glenwood runs 100% better with its Baro/manual damper combo ...you will have to play a bit with it but it will be great addition to your stove

Lightning wrote:Auto damper as in one that automatically adjusts combustion air based on stove temp? Then no, probably not quite so necessary. May make it run smoother with less temperature variance. Maybe not.

yes exactly, DSM has bi metal coil based thermometer control of intake air. so far I've not had any variation of heat out put, this stove is crazy "set it and forget it "

Steve,

I've installed three of these, always used the recommended method of cutting the pipe and bending the tabs into the collar. Works fine, I wouldn't obsess over sealing the collar. I never have, nor do I seal my flue joints. But I also have a VERY strong drafting chimney, so if your draft is minimal, you may need to seal up better .

As far as the number scale on the scale, my original 8" baro seemed to be right on a far as the numbers. The 9" I have installed now is only .01" off (set to .03" or so on the scale, manometer reads .04"). So, they are usually pretty close as long as the baro is leveled perfectly when installed. As recommended above though, I wouldn't just guess on this. Definitely either borrow or permanently install a manometer. My Dad and I set my original baro with a digital unit, but finally plumbed in the Dwyer unit this year. Most use the Mark II model 25.

Either way, it is a pretty sensitive piece. I can move the plate with my fingers and watch the manometer change. Definitely worth installing though if you have a strong draft (as I do). Uses much less coal and is better able to "idle", especially this time of year .

Hope this helps,

Joe

thanks Joe,

you bring up the issue that seems to be primary ( at least to me ) that being extra control during periods of induced draft ( high wind )

in 2 of the 4 places I had my Riteway running I had short chimneys with poor draft that was complicated further by the Riteway having a 7" flue. in those installations I needed a vane style rotating cap to increase draft. in this present place I have 21' of internal brick chimney above the wall thimble and that has been a problem of over draft during high wind and -zero temps.

I now have 21' of 6" smooth wall 316 SS flex liner in the chimney and I already know the present draft is lower than before. it's not too low for the stove just lower than that 7" sewer line from before.

i did have some irregular firing with the Riteway at all times that I over came by propping the intake flap open about the width of a paper clip, or dime which ever was closest when I started the stove. this made the flue draft control almost impossible cause the flap never closed. add to that the fact that the Riteway had fixed automatic secondary air and things just compounded on each other.

i don't have that problem with this stove, it is very controllable with the bi metal and I have run it at a constant 150* out put on the lowest setting for 6 hrs. during which time the flap never opened and the stove ran fine on whatever gets into it along with the auto secondaries this stove has too.

the question still remains, has anyone with a DSM circulator ,or any other auto regulated hand fired stove for that matter, tested operation with and without a Baro and recorded the results.

if not, i'll have the chance this yr.

KC, it don't matter who else has tried it--you know your particular draft/wind situation--it's by individual need or not need my friend. My neighbor over the hill put one in his Hitzer 50-93 with bi-metallic thermo for one season, & I believe he took it out & just uses his Manual Pipe Damper pm him if curious "fastcat"

thanks again Fred, that kind of report helps.

Everyone's needs vary. I know I need mine. It gets quite windy here in the winter and my draft is super good in the cold (not so much when it is warmer). Without the baro my stove temp would go up and up. Once, on a really windy day, I saw my stove temp was up over 500 degrees. Earlier in the week without the wind it was going at a steady 325-350. With the baro on I now have peace of mind that I can leave and not worry about my stove over firing. Would not catch me without one, ever. Peace of mind!

that's interesting thanks.

i have never had the kind of over draft / over fire situation you describe even with the intake flap propped open.

in my case the high wind just sucked the heat right out the flue, stove didn't have a chance to get any hotter.

ok, I believe I've found some credible evidence of my own for the use and purpose of SOME type of over fire draft damping.

in all like conditions, out side temp., inside temp.,bi metal setting, well burning coal bed up to the rail at the front load door...

#1 if I don't have the hopper in the stove top will be 250* with a constant "blue lady display"

#2 if I put the hopper in the stove the temp. will go down to 225* at the point i'm meassuring and the blue ladies reduce but don't leave all together., and the heat out the tubes increases.

#3 if I fill the hopper the temp. will go down to 200* the blues will be just visible in niches in the coal and the heat up the tubes increases further.

this tends to suggest ( to me ) that the more obstruction I put in the way of over fire draft the more heat I retain in the stove and transfer out to the room.

now the question remains, what's the best way to do that ? use a Baro. and send air I just paid to heat up the flue, or, MPD and just keep the heat in the stove to start with ?

lets not turn this into a flame war, i'm just thinking out loud.