Feeder Motor Broke?
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I just started my coal stove yesterday and it was working fine for about 24 hours but I came home today and the fire was out. I re-started it but then realized that the coal feeder inside the hopper is not working. Normally the motor comes on every few minutes to rotate the feeder. I emptied the coal out of the hopper to check if the feeder is jammed and it seems to be OK. I can't physically rotate it with my hand but nothing appears to be blocking it or stuck in there. My only guess is that the motor is broke? Is it common for these motors to go bad on coal stoves? The stove was already installed in the house before I bought it but I don't think it's more than 5 years old.
- McGiever
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- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Did you try plugging it directly into an electric outlet to see if idle timer might be the trouble and not the motor?
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The feeder motor does not have a power cord to plug directly into an outlet, it has 2 wires that are hooked into a circuit board. It looks like the power cord from the electrical outlet goes to a circuit board which outputs the power 3 ways, 1 to the feeder motor, 1 to the combustion blower motor, and 1 to the feed control box (idle timer?). I tried unplugging the output to the feed control box but it made no difference.McGiever wrote:Did you try plugging it directly into an electric outlet to see if idle timer might be the trouble and not the motor?
I am not familiar with the fume safety switch. What is it and where do I find it?jbc8000 wrote:also did you check to see if the fume safety switch just needed reset?
- McGiever
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- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Any [glass] fuses to check?
Fume switch location...look in your Operators Manual.
It is in the exhaust outlet pathway.
Fume switch location...look in your Operators Manual.
It is in the exhaust outlet pathway.
- whistlenut
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All the above steps are excellent. IF you are comfortable with 115 volt power, simply unplug the unit, isolate the two wires to the feeder motor, and connect to a temp power cord, plug it in, view the results. It will work or not. Then if it does work, you can reassemble, and go to the next step. Could be lots of things, however it may be simple. IMO the feed motors are not a lifetime deal, HOWEVER if you keep the area clean, keep the stoker clean when in storage or off line, you increase the life expectancy greatly. At $110 +/-, that is a cheap part to be sacrificial. WELL WORTH having one on the shelf or available locally. Murphy's Law will assure that you will not be able to plan any event, only react to it. Are you comfortable with where this is taking you? DO not try to get a motor online UNLESS you are familiar with the shaft diameter, gear reduction speed, and purpose the motor was designed for. Free advise from the $.02 Gallery.
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing 111
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When you turn the stove on do you get any power at all. Is it a direct vent, does the direct vent run and does the fan run. Whenever my fume switch tripped I lost all power and had to wait for the stove to cool down before it would reset.
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West Chester PA (Chester County). Just added to my profile.blrman07 wrote:Where are you located? If you finish filling out your avatar someone might be close to you that can lend a hand.
Rev. Larry
I read the manual before and I don't recall it saying anything about a fume switch or fuses. There might be fuses but I didn't see any when I was messing with it yesterday. I will have to look through the manual again when I get home. I'm at work and they don't have the manuals available to download on the Alaska stove website. Their website really doesn't have much useful information at all.McGiever wrote:Any [glass] fuses to check?
Fume switch location...look in your Operators Manual.
It is in the exhaust outlet pathway.
I think I will try this later. If it does turn out to be the motor I was informed by Alaska Stove they stock the motor for about $105 although it sounds like they will not sell direct and I will have to find a dealer. I won't try to use a different motor, I will use the Alaska OEM motor if that is the problem.whistlenut wrote:All the above steps are excellent. IF you are comfortable with 115 volt power, simply unplug the unit, isolate the two wires to the feeder motor, and connect to a temp power cord, plug it in, view the results. It will work or not. Then if it does work, you can reassemble, and go to the next step. Could be lots of things, however it may be simple. IMO the feed motors are not a lifetime deal, HOWEVER if you keep the area clean, keep the stoker clean when in storage or off line, you increase the life expectancy greatly. At $110 +/-, that is a cheap part to be sacrificial. WELL WORTH having one on the shelf or available locally. Murphy's Law will assure that you will not be able to plan any event, only react to it. Are you comfortable with where this is taking you? DO not try to get a motor online UNLESS you are familiar with the shaft diameter, gear reduction speed, and purpose the motor was designed for. Free advise from the $.02 Gallery.
When I plug it in everything else is working besides the feeder motor. The combustion fan motor comes on and the blower fan motor comes on. That is why I think it is the feeder motor because the power cord from the electrical outlet runs to a circuit board which is powering all 3 motors and only the feeder motor is not turning on.Pocono Pete wrote:When you turn the stove on do you get any power at all. Is it a direct vent, does the direct vent run and does the fan run. Whenever my fume switch tripped I lost all power and had to wait for the stove to cool down before it would reset.
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Stupid question but does anyone know how to get this block off of the motor shaft (see attached pics)? I need to remove it in order to get the motor out of the frame.
There are no screws or bolts on the side of the block. There are 2 bores on the bottom of the block, 1 is for the linkage that is connected to the feeder motor which is just screwed into the bottom of the block and has been removed. The other bore is for the feeder motor shaft. Judging by the photo I found on the internet it looks like the end of the shaft is threaded so I'm guessing the block is held onto the shaft by threads and I just need to spin the block counter clockwise to get it off? I don't want to break anything else!!
There are no screws or bolts on the side of the block. There are 2 bores on the bottom of the block, 1 is for the linkage that is connected to the feeder motor which is just screwed into the bottom of the block and has been removed. The other bore is for the feeder motor shaft. Judging by the photo I found on the internet it looks like the end of the shaft is threaded so I'm guessing the block is held onto the shaft by threads and I just need to spin the block counter clockwise to get it off? I don't want to break anything else!!
Attachments
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Fume switch is found on Power Vented equipped models only.
Manual is combined in w/ Kast Console, etc.
http://jlproductsite.com/pdf/kast_console.pdf
Only a guess, but, block has to un-screw from motor...may be on w/ Loc-Tite.
Manual is combined in w/ Kast Console, etc.
http://jlproductsite.com/pdf/kast_console.pdf
Only a guess, but, block has to un-screw from motor...may be on w/ Loc-Tite.
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- Location: Frederick MD
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Dual Stoker 140
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Cant you meter the motor?
If the gear is worn out, it wont move either...
Put a meter on the 2 posts of the motor and see if you have 120v...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKU2490-Alaska-Coal-Stove ... _215wt_880
Jono ace hardware is where I buy my parts and they are VERY helpful.....
10781 Allentown Blvd
Jonestown, PA 17038
Ph: (717) 865-5060
Fax: (717) 865-2278
http://www.jonohardware.com
Shop My Store's Local DealsEmail This Store
Store Owner:Jonathan Lehman
If the gear is worn out, it wont move either...
Put a meter on the 2 posts of the motor and see if you have 120v...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKU2490-Alaska-Coal-Stove ... _215wt_880
Jono ace hardware is where I buy my parts and they are VERY helpful.....
10781 Allentown Blvd
Jonestown, PA 17038
Ph: (717) 865-5060
Fax: (717) 865-2278
http://www.jonohardware.com
Shop My Store's Local DealsEmail This Store
Store Owner:Jonathan Lehman
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I took the feeder motor out today (That block is held on by threads and spins off). I hooked an old power cord directly to the motor and I could hear electricity running through it but the shaft was not moving it all so it looks like it is in fact the feeder motor that is broken. I ordered a replacement OEM motor direct from Alaska Stove today for about $130 including shipping. I should get it in about a day or two and I will follow up to let everyone know how it works. Thanks!
- Hambden Bob
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Nice Pics ! Nice Job ! Thanx for getting back to us and confirming what the problem ended up being. Shoot us a pic of the Alaska under fire so we know all is well ! Welcome to the Board !
- Rick 386
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shredder_54,
I think Lutz's coal yard in Schwenksville would have those motors in stock. They are an Alaska dealer. Not sure if there are other dealers near you.
Rick
I think Lutz's coal yard in Schwenksville would have those motors in stock. They are an Alaska dealer. Not sure if there are other dealers near you.
Rick