Franco Belge 10.275 Issues? Help?
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Hi all! I am new to the board and I am in need of some guidance
I have a Franco Belge 10.275 I picked up for the garage. I have it hooked up to the chimney with a 5"-6"increaser to 6" pipe to the chimney hole in the wall a few feet above the stove. I also installed a flap inside the pipe to control the draft. Here is the issue, I managed to get the stove going on coal, but it just doesn't burn hot. It burns just enough to stay going, but it doesn't really get burning hot! I opened the draft knob on the side all the way to 8 and opened the grate draft hole all of the way and opened the flap all of the way. The middle grate is broken in the middle of it, but it should still work. It just doesn't seem like enough air is getting through it. Is there a chance that the draft setup inside the stove is broke? The knob turns very easily almost like it may be broken inside. This is my first experience with one of these Franco Belge stoves and I know they work well, I just can't get this one working right Any help guys would be greatly appreciated Thanks! Luke
I have a Franco Belge 10.275 I picked up for the garage. I have it hooked up to the chimney with a 5"-6"increaser to 6" pipe to the chimney hole in the wall a few feet above the stove. I also installed a flap inside the pipe to control the draft. Here is the issue, I managed to get the stove going on coal, but it just doesn't burn hot. It burns just enough to stay going, but it doesn't really get burning hot! I opened the draft knob on the side all the way to 8 and opened the grate draft hole all of the way and opened the flap all of the way. The middle grate is broken in the middle of it, but it should still work. It just doesn't seem like enough air is getting through it. Is there a chance that the draft setup inside the stove is broke? The knob turns very easily almost like it may be broken inside. This is my first experience with one of these Franco Belge stoves and I know they work well, I just can't get this one working right Any help guys would be greatly appreciated Thanks! Luke
- coaledsweat
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Well first thing, is the firebox completely full of coal? If not, fill it up. And do you have a poor, good of very high chimney draft? If its high you will need a barometric damper. Make sure that all the air comes from below the coal fire, any air from above will kill off any chance of making serious heat. Check the draft door and see that it does in fact adjust the air supply.1964novass wrote:I managed to get the stove going on coal, but it just doesn't burn hot. It burns just enough to stay going, but it doesn't really get burning hot!
- coalstoves
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A Franco B needs a good draft from the chimney because of the way the firebox is designed on most hand fired stoves the flue feeds straight out the top with little baffling at all.
A Franco B use a manifold much like the old Y-pipe theory on car exhaust systems and they pick up flue gases just above the firebox area then move around the outside of the stove to the chimney connector . It can be problematic if the chimney only produces a marginal draft another item is with a broken center section I don't see how the grates are able to be shaken if you can't shake the grates your wasting time building a fire because about every 8-10 hrs the grates needs to be shaken to clear the built up ash, and by shaken I mean moved side to side in the allotted travel not jiggled they are not like wood stoves where the ash eventually falls thru the grate , the shaking process must be thorough to ensure the fire has air and that the coal is fed down from the hopper , the fire will seldom burn above the exhaust ports . But before anything you need to go over the stove and make sure the thermostatic flap is working and that the ports both air in an exhaust out are clean and flowing freely and every thing is sealed tight and the gaskets are good. Then read the thread on starting a hopper fire I wrote and try again but with a broken grate I don't know what you can expect if anything at all, other than the chance to see what a coal fire looks like
A Franco B use a manifold much like the old Y-pipe theory on car exhaust systems and they pick up flue gases just above the firebox area then move around the outside of the stove to the chimney connector . It can be problematic if the chimney only produces a marginal draft another item is with a broken center section I don't see how the grates are able to be shaken if you can't shake the grates your wasting time building a fire because about every 8-10 hrs the grates needs to be shaken to clear the built up ash, and by shaken I mean moved side to side in the allotted travel not jiggled they are not like wood stoves where the ash eventually falls thru the grate , the shaking process must be thorough to ensure the fire has air and that the coal is fed down from the hopper , the fire will seldom burn above the exhaust ports . But before anything you need to go over the stove and make sure the thermostatic flap is working and that the ports both air in an exhaust out are clean and flowing freely and every thing is sealed tight and the gaskets are good. Then read the thread on starting a hopper fire I wrote and try again but with a broken grate I don't know what you can expect if anything at all, other than the chance to see what a coal fire looks like
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Good information gentlemen! I will get the replacement grate asap. Also, here is a picture of the pipe situation and the grates. Let me know if the flu is ok and if the grates could just be flipped to the opposite sides. Thanks, Luke
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**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
- coaledsweat
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From the elbow in the picture to the top of the chimney, how many feet?
Those grates don't look like the anthracite specific ones we all know and love. You may want a bent pick to poke from below to keep them open.
Those grates don't look like the anthracite specific ones we all know and love. You may want a bent pick to poke from below to keep them open.
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The grates are the ones that came in the stove. They are the same ones that they sell for replacement as well. the legth of the pipe is about 60 inches.
- coaledsweat
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Not the pipe itself, the very top of the chimney where the smoke comes out.1964novass wrote:The grates are the ones that came in the stove. They are the same ones that they sell for replacement as well. the legth of the pipe is about 60 inches.
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Oh sorry. The chimney is exterior. The chimney is about 20' from the ground to the top. The top of it is about 12' above the point where the stove pipe enters it. Do you think the manual damper I have in the pipe should be replaced with a barometric damper? Also, what about those grates? Someone mentioned that they do not look like anthracite grates.
- coaledsweat
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I mentioned the grates, not a big deal. They will just need an occasional poking from below more than likely.
You don't have much chimney @ 17' above the stove outlet, and the same could be said for your draft more than likely. I would check the draft with a gauge, you may need more chimney or a draft inducer.
http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftinducers.php
This could go right on the stovepipe, you need a control with it.
The baro will most likely be needed with the inducer, probably not if you add about 6-8' of chimney.
You don't have much chimney @ 17' above the stove outlet, and the same could be said for your draft more than likely. I would check the draft with a gauge, you may need more chimney or a draft inducer.
http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftinducers.php
This could go right on the stovepipe, you need a control with it.
The baro will most likely be needed with the inducer, probably not if you add about 6-8' of chimney.
- coalstoves
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coaledsweat wrote:From the elbow in the picture to the top of the chimney, how many feet?
Those grates don't look like the anthracite specific ones we all know and love. You may want a bent pick to poke from below to keep them open.
coalstoves says wrote:Yup those are Franco B grates coaledsweat a little different than what most are used to these are shaker grates and the type your used to are alligator grates at least that’s how we call'em around these parts of the region .
Don't worry about poking at'em they work fine, poking induces undue stress to anthracite it is a moody fuel that likes privacy and as little human contact as possible
Good that you were able to find a source for replacements there is one on line here but I have never thought to save the link.
You will find that the meeting edge of the components that make up the grate system all have a taper to them so they don't just fall in but actually work together to support itself which is why I questioned how they could possibly work if broke, this also prevents the Flip It idea from working .
One time some ash built up under one of the supporting ears of mine and slipped off causing the whole left side to drop down near the ash pan and lock up the whole thing I figured the worse case scenario Broken Grate but was happy when I disassembled and found it slipped now when I service it which is only once a year I remove the grates and supports to clean behind the ears to speak.
While its down take this opportunity to remove the side covers this will give access to the manifold remove the end caps near the rear of the manifold and vacuum it out, I know the feeling of not wanting to go that far and thinking that reaching in with a hose from both fire box ports and chimney connector flange is good enough but one time after half stepping the job I pushed myself to do it right and was shocked at how much got missed . A little penetrating oil on the studs an hour before you start always makes it easier and they can be resealed with flat rope gasket and a couple of spots of gasket cement from a hardware store . When reassembling the wing nuts on the studs need only be tightened a quarter turn past finger tight .
Remember the passage way of the manifold is relatively small and all of it must be utilized for the stove to give the least amount of problems .
Also vacuum the little duct from the thermostat flap to the fire box during operation this is the fires only source of air and again it is relatively small .
The pipe off your stove looks fine, you will need your own expertise or the help of a chimney Guy to determine the condition and performance of the main chimney you are tieing into .
Rule of thumb is .04-.05 on a manometer at times mine runs a bit less so I'm cautions and having done this for a long time I got a few tricks up my sleeve for when the temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure throws my main chimney out of wack but I don't discuss them here, they are tricks and in the wrong hands dangerous .
Good luck
They are grate stoves
Very efficient
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thanks again for the help I guess I will take the rest of the stove apart and clean it good. As far as the grates, what if I just take the left one and put it on the right and put the right one on the left. That way the broken middle parts of them will be on the outside edges of the fire box and coal should not fall down into the ash box then. I am just thinking of a way of not having to buy new ones. They are $62 a piece. This stove is just for my garage and I only paid $50 for it. Also, do I need to get a barometric draft control on the flue pipe or can I get away with the manual flap in the flue pipe?
- LsFarm
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You seem to have draft issues with your short chimney, so you don't want or need a manual damper. If you have tried to burn in the stove with the manual damper closed this may have been part of the problems you had.
A barometric damper is a much better way to control the draft over the fire in your stove.
Greg L
A barometric damper is a much better way to control the draft over the fire in your stove.
Greg L
- coalstoves
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Going price for this stove is $200-400 so far your ahead1964novass wrote: They are $62 a piece. This stove is just for my garage and I only paid $50 for it.
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Not that I want to come off as a coal snob but I have been heating my 1800 sf ranch with the same franco belge stove for 9 years. One thing you need to look into is the coal you are burning. I found a big difference in brand of coal or just from supplyer to supplyer.
I have burned real crappy coal and some good stuff. Coal that burns quick and other are slow.
My idea is to try coal from a different source or company. The last 3 years I have been burning Citrila coal and It get high marks. Buy a few bags from someone else and give it a try.
All coal is not the same
W/S
I have burned real crappy coal and some good stuff. Coal that burns quick and other are slow.
My idea is to try coal from a different source or company. The last 3 years I have been burning Citrila coal and It get high marks. Buy a few bags from someone else and give it a try.
All coal is not the same
W/S
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Hey, here is an off the wall question. Can I burn wood in this stove instead of coal? If I remove the big hopper plate, I could easily stick some logs in there. Just wondering? The thing is it just takes the coal such a long time to really get going to put heat off. Sometimes I am only in the garage for an hour or two. It would be easier to just get a wood fire going quick and there would be good heat.