Yes I agree since I believe air leaks AND good draft are contributing.Photog200 wrote:When burning wood, it is over fired because it is being fed with air being sucked in from the top of the stove. Even though I have the air intake dampers completely closed so I have to control that with the check damper.
This part I'm not on board with. I believe this is a common misconception. In order for the leaks to "take" part of the combustion air, the leaks would need to exceed the volume of the flue pipe (for example, opening the load door would accomplish this). I've proven this to myself by placing a manometer probe in the primary air feed and then adjusted the secondary and observed no change in pressure at the primary. By the looks of the leaks from the pictures, there is nowhere near that volume getting in the stove.Photog200 wrote:With coal, the air that is being sucked in from the top has the opposite problem, because it is taking air that should pass under the grates to operate it correctly, the coal fire does not get as hot as it should. (especially when in oven mode). I have to find a way to curb the air loss at these points I showed with the arrows in the photos.
Got pics of these leaks? I'm curious about this part.. More details?Photog200 wrote:I have already made some progress by plugging some leaks at the stove pipe.
Your welcome! This forum has helped me too, hopefully with combined effort, you'll be happy with your results with coal.Photog200 wrote:Thank you so much for your post because your points are very valid. This has been two weeks of a lot of experimenting and learning and I thank everyone for your support and good pointers. I love this forum!
Outside of that, a manometer is cheap and easy to install and I think it would help diagnose your problem
Also, I don't know your level of experience so I would like to suggest too that maybe your coal bed isn't being built up high enough. I run mine 10 inches deep. A minimum of about 6 inches deep covering the whole grate is enough for a good even burn.