Why Do I Keep Geting CO?

 
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Dennis
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Post by Dennis » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 8:38 pm

mikloy wrote:
Lightning wrote:The barometric door should be opening some to regulate the chimney draft. If it's not, depending on how you have the weight set, it could indicate you have a very weak or no draft at times. This is why a manometer permanently installed is so valuable. It will tell you if the draft is trending towards a failure.
I know what I am going to get tomorrow!!!
How to Permanent Install Manometer...
here are 2 threads to read,and welcome.I bet your glad to have the CO detectors.Reread your baro instructions and re adjust


 
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mikloy
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Post by mikloy » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 8:46 pm

Dennis wrote:
mikloy wrote: I know what I am going to get tomorrow!!!
How to Permanent Install Manometer...
here are 2 threads to read,and welcome.I bet your glad to have the CO detectors.Reread your baro instructions and re adjust
Thanks for the link!

Can't believe we didn't have the CO detectors as kids. It was a girl 2 streets over from me that initiated Nicole's Law, requiring buildings to have CO detectors! Sad story, but since has saved many lives!

 
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Dennis
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Post by Dennis » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 8:50 pm

top right corner is a search button,type in manometer and start reading

 
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kcarr
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Post by kcarr » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 8:54 pm

freetown fred wrote:I'd still cover it with some tin foil & just use your MPD--it could eliminate that as a problem--coal should not be
Hello Mikloy....Freetown Fred is right on that one, cover up that Baro Draft with foil so it can not suck room air and it should improve your chimney draft. I don't even have Barometric Draft on my flue pipe, never did. Kills my draft.
Sometimes those things are not necessary. I know alot of guys that have theirs tightly covered with tin foil and they have no more sulfur odor. But meanwhile...keep a few windows cracked open for fresh air and make sure CO detectors are working ok. Safety first... If your problem keeps up...play it safe and shut it down until you figure out problem. Good Luck.
Ken

 
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mikloy
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Post by mikloy » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 9:02 pm

Safe ToLeave MPD wide Open With No barro?

 
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kcarr
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Post by kcarr » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 9:22 pm

mikloy wrote:Safe ToLeave MPD wide Open With No barro?
I think MPD means manual damper.....yes I would leave manual damper in flu pipe wide open as long as fire is not running too strong and you have your primary air (under grates) and your secondary air (over coal bed) air adjusted properly. Last thing you want is a run away fire, but it does not sound like to me you have much of a strong fire going in the first place, if you are getting CO...sounds like you have a weak draft problem....and tonight should be a good drafting night temp here in Quakertown, PA is 30F.

Don't see in your profile where you are located ??
Ken

 
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Post by mikloy » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 9:27 pm

kcarr wrote:
mikloy wrote:Safe ToLeave MPD wide Open With No barro?
I think MPD means manual damper.....yes I would leave manual damper in flu pipe wide open as long as fire is not running too strong and you have your primary air (under grates) and your secondary air (over coal bed) air adjusted properly. Last thing you want is a run away fire, but it does not sound like to me you have much of a strong fire going in the first place, if you are getting CO...sounds like you have a weak draft problem....and tonight should be a good drafting night temp here in Quakertown, PA is 30F.

Don't see in your profile where you are located ??
Ken

I'm up in America's Home Town of Plymouth Massachusetts! I'm at about 28F tonight no winds or anything. Fire is burning pretty good. I have had it at almost 500 since 730 ish. secondary air? Not familiar with that one. On the chubby, there are two little "ears" that swing open, but I thought I read those were generally for wood use...?


 
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Post by Carbon12 » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 9:32 pm

Please, at your earliest convenience, go to Woods Seafood on the Town Pier and have a stuffed Quahog for me!!! After you get your stove dialed in, of course! :D

 
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Post by kcarr » Wed. Nov. 20, 2013 9:49 pm

Well if you have that kind of fire going then I don't think you have that big of a draft problem, sounds more like the stove has a crack in it or something where exhaust can leak out, setting off CO alarm. Like Rob R said, put some wood in there and see if you can see some smoke leaking out of stove.

 
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Nov. 21, 2013 2:14 am

mikloy wrote:secondary air? Not familiar with that one. On the chubby, there are two little "ears" that swing open, but I thought I read those were generally for wood use...?
Yes, open the ears a little. Secondary air also helps maintain draft..
Some good reading on Chimney draft..
Chimney Draft Failure

Some good reading about Secondary air (over the fire air)..
Importance of Over Fire Air & Blue Flames

 
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Post by mikloy » Thu. Nov. 21, 2013 9:37 am

Carbon12 wrote:Please, at your earliest convenience, go to Woods Seafood on the Town Pier and have a stuffed Quahog for me!!! After you get your stove dialed in, of course! :D
Will do!!! Now I'm hungry!!

 
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Post by mikloy » Thu. Nov. 21, 2013 9:39 am

Rob R. wrote:Once you get some fresh air blowing through that room, I'd toss a piece of wood on the fire and watch for smoke around the stove and flue pipe.
Threw some wood in there, no apparent leaks!

 
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Post by duck » Thu. Nov. 21, 2013 9:38 pm

We have had to let our Hitzer go out 3 times this Fall because of CO. Live on the CT coast right at RI/CT boarder the warm humid days drops the draft and monometer goes to zero. Have the stove turned down so low there is no heat in the chimney even with a draft booster chimney cap.
Stove running fine tonite new fire lots of draw.

 
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Post by SMITTY » Thu. Nov. 21, 2013 9:48 pm

I get this issue with the new stoker boiler, due to my "less than ideal" connector pipe setup. My workaround has been restricting combustion air .... but that's neither here nor there in the hand fired section ...

Every 90° bend creates a restriction. In my case it was either this, or freeze. :roll:

 
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Post by franco b » Thu. Nov. 21, 2013 10:13 pm

SMITTY wrote:I get this issue with the new stoker boiler, due to my "less than ideal" connector pipe setup. My workaround has been restricting combustion air .... but that's neither here nor there in the hand fired section ...

Every 90° bend creates a restriction. In my case it was either this, or freeze. :roll:
I wonder if instead of dropping straight down making it 45 degrees instead might help.


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