Replacing Mica on Le Grand Godin?

Hi everyone. Virgin poster here. I have to start by saying how impressed I am by the wealth of knowledge and community that Ive seen on this forum thus far. I hope to have some information to share in the future in order to return the favor. To the task at hand...

I believe Ive acquired a Godin model 3721- the Le Grand Godin (it's a round stove about 3/3.5 ft tall? I'm mad about these stoves and story of the Godin factory. After looking it over and assessing what would need to be replaced and what just needed TLC, I noticed that there was fireproof insulation stuffed between the larger enameled frame of the ash door. Also, the mica is cracked and Ive been working to loosen the bolts and order a new piece.

Questions...
!. Are the enameled pieces normally flush with the outer jacket? Is there a gasket between the two?

2. Can the old door gasket be replaced with standard rope gasket or is it specific to Godin? When the new mica goes in, the gasket goes partially inside the backing plate behind the mica?

I realize forum etiquette is to check thoroughly and I apologize if I missed these questions. I've been searching when I can for about a week and resources are scarce on these stoves.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post.

Hello The Beard, welcome to the forum....

!. Are the enameled pieces normally flush with the outer jacket? Is there a gasket between the two?

The enameled casting are normally flush with the outer skin and there is no gasket between the two. The Godins are not air-tight stoves but tight enough that with the door and the air supply closed the fire will rapidly die.

2. Can the old door gasket be replaced with standard rope gasket or is it specific to Godin? When the new mica goes in, the gasket goes partially inside the backing plate behind the mica?

The flat gasket material used on the Godins is held in place by the same metal frame that holds the mica in place. With the gasket in place it causes the frame to tightly lock the mica also. I have not tried to use round gasket and am not sure how to make it work.

From the photos it looks like you stove has been over-fired. There are two castings behind the door, the door frame and the lintel. The lintel is a sacrificial piece , due to the extreme heat where the air hits the coal it slowly deteriorates and needs to be replaced every 5 to 10 years. In your stove the door frame may also be warped due to over-firing. Some pictures of that area from the inside of the stove would help.

There is a parts diagram for your stove in this thread: Godin Large Round Fired UP!!

You may need to replace the parts labeled 13 & 14 in the second diagram.

KaptJaq

Thanks KaptJaq! I was hoping you'd chime in. Ive read most of your posts pertaining to Godin. Ironically I havent seen the post you linked but I will read it over today. I was told that the stove indeed WAS overfired by one of the previous owners. It may never be up to the standard I was hoping to achieve and possibly sell it, but I'd still like to use it and admire it.

Where exactly would you need a picture of? Inside of the door?

Thanks again!

TheBeard wrote: Where exactly would you need a picture of? Inside of the door?

If you have a small camera put it in via the ash door all the way to the back and take a picture of the door frame & lintel from inside. Also take a picture of the firebox from the top.

KaptJaq

Here are the pics. I hope I got them correct. Also you can see one of the hinges is loose.

Hi beard,

That stove needs some work. The lintel is gone and it looks like the inner door frame is mostly gone also. The loading cover is not attached at the hinges. How is the exhaust port? The fire brick is pitted but looks serviceable. What are the pieces of steel on the shaker grate?

First, disassemble the loading door components. Identify the parts on the parts diagram and see if you can get replacements. There are a couple of online sources for parts. The stoves are still manufactured in France and a couple of British shops will ship here.

Second. I see carbon black on the bottom of the enameled cover. Was this because the hinge is off and the loading lid was not lined up? Or is the top warped? If the top is warped, that plus the lintel & door frame would push the cost of repair well above what the final stove would be worth.

If you have questions once you get started feel free to ask (and post pictures).

KaptJaq

Below are pictures of my 3721 just before this season's first firing. First is looking down into the firebox, the second is the loading door area.

KaptJaq

Hey Kapt,

Thank you for taking your time to help. My focus is just to get it functioning as a woodburner for days like today when the heat pump may need some help with the option of adding coal during long cold spells. Even if it's not perfect (yours looks pretty damn close )

The exhaust port looks ok. Serviceable at the least.

I believe the carbon is indeed from the lid not lining up. One hinge is fine, the other, not so much. I'll determine whether its worth messing with once the bolt is out and I can see what the threads look like. The top doesn't seem warped at all. Everything seems to line up. Im hoping to get away with replacing the lintel and inner frame. As long as I can get them and everything lines up when the new parts are in.

The mica and old gasket are out and ready to be replaced. I have the gasket on order and found a source for mica. Im ordering two sheets this week but I'm unsure of how to join them. They seem to have rivets in holding them together. Can I use dabs of stove cement or is there a better way?

TheBeard wrote: Im ordering two sheets this week but I'm unsure of how to join them. They seem to have rivets in holding them together. Can I use dabs of stove cement or is there a better way?

I've always seen only one piece of mica across the viewing window. I am not sure how to join two pieces. Maybe one of the other guys here has a suggestion.

TheBeard wrote:Even if it's not perfect (yours looks pretty damn close )

The 3721 that is in my avatar and that I posted the pictures of has been installed since the mid 1970s, after the first Arab oil embargo. I know that it was pushed in a corner and not used from 1993 to 1999. When I bought the house in 1999 I cleaned it up, put new pipe on it, and have burned between 1.5 & 2 tons of coal a year. The only things I have changed on it are the lintel and stove pipe. The 3731 that was in my prior home was a project to get in usable condition. Luckily I had a business trip to France and was able to pick up all the parts I needed while I was there. The stoves are still manufactured, just not imported to the US anymore.

KaptJaq

I've read that a lot of the Godin stoves where shipped here during that time. Its part of the reason why I want to rehab and use the stove. I'd buy any old stove if I just wanted heat. It's the history and style of Godin that I want. Fingers crossed...

Here's a pic of the old mica. I assume they used two sheets due to the availability and cost compared to one large sheet. Two 5x5 sheets is $18 compared to one 8x8 sheet @ $49. Considering how they obtain mica it makes sense. They're held in place by the gasket and cover once its together. Maybe it's just to keep them from separating during the install?

This is not so much a reply to the mica question as a proposition to all Godin owners that the oft mentioned "bridging" problem actually can be used to advantage to keep the stove cleaned out and running. To do this safely you need a few tools and a cool head. First the tools; I fabbed a slicing knife after reading about them on a different post. It is made from 1/8 x 1 1/2 bar stock, commonly found in most hardware stores in 3' lengths. I cut mine off at 26" and drilled two holes at one end to attach two slabs of wood to form a handle, ground and sanded to make it user friendly. Then I ground a "fishtail" on the other end, sharpening one side of each v edge so that there is a front and a back. I have a lid lifter from another stove, and a poker formed from 5/16 rod, similar to others mentioned, a small coal shovel used to clean out ash, and a good pair of leather gloves. I start in the morning by putting a small layer of fresh coal on the fire, then go make coffee. Come back and open the front door and grate. With the shovel in my strong hand and the lid lifter in my right I gently work the shovel in and CAREFULLY withdraw the shovelful of dead coals. The secret is to not be greedy. Then close the grate, insert the knife and clean to the back. If the fire is stll bridged and more dead coals are there I go in again until I have most all dead coals out. If the fire drops while the shovel is in you can control it with the shovel, change hands and exchange the lid lifter for the knife, insert through the grate, which gives enough leverage to remove the shovel and close the grate. Finally I go back to the top and insert the knfe, flat side to the firebrick and slice around the edge till the fire drops, and rebuild the fire with fresh coal. Follow this procedure carefully and you can keep the Godin running forever safely. When I say grate I am referring to the drop down door in the front not the next to useless rotating grate, which if it jams can be lifted gently and shaken with the knife while keeping the door/grate closed with the lid lifter. This is all done in far less time then it took to write this. I am 71 years old and have had about every type of coal stove out there. The best grates are the type found in cook stoves and furnaces, which rotate longitudally and really clean out the ash. The rest are pale in comparison, regardless of your pet stove. Sorry for the length of this post but I needed to say this correctly for the safety of those who wish to try this.