Runaway Hitzer 50-93

coalnewbie · Post by **coalnewbie** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 2:19 am

So my brand new Hitzer 50-923 was installed with no baro and no damper ( I was in a rush and Hitzer makes this an option). The back flap was completely closed shut at 8PM, the side handle does not have the magic washer instead I used pieces of fiberglass and I then pushed in the handle. Crude but the hole is sealed and yes I have an nice even burn now. The bottom door is closed tight and the draft knob is shut all the way to the left -no holes visable. The gasket looks to be new. Here I am up at 2AM, the room is at 80F. and the thermometer on the front of the stove says 450F. HELP. I guess the bottom gasket has a major leak that I can't see. I feel stupid what am I missing. Anybody can use a Hitzer - right? Apparently not I. Five years burning coal and I am still a newbie - depressing.

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 5:40 am

Try and pass a match around the gasket areas and see if you find any leaks...it is possible that your draft is just VERY strong and pulling air from every seam. Does the chimney have a clean-out door? Open it a few inches and see what happens.

coalnewbie · Post by **coalnewbie** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 7:32 am

OK, nailed it, the screw on the draft door which holds the fancy screw for draft adjustment was tight but the bolt it attached to was imperfectly formed and the draft insert has pulled across but not sealed against the door was in fact the draft was almost on full. I needed a washer... Fixed it at 4:30am went back to bed and now the stove may be out and I am trying to get it back to life.... lesson learned but I only wish I had learned it when it was not 9F.

fastcat · Post by **fastcat** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 9:24 am

Yes that screw can be a pain and needs to be kept and eye on, Just make sure you can still slide the draft slide, I have found per Oliver Power that if you crack that thing open just a little you can stop the flapper from banging when the wind is blowing strong and creating a strong draft and slamming the flapper closed when it wants to be open. After 4 years I have found that I have needed to tighten mine twice in that time and have no idea how it gets loose, just something to check from time to time.

Post by **Lightning** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 5:11 pm

fastcat wrote:After 4 years I have found that I have needed to tighten mine twice in that time and have no idea how it gets loose, just something to check from time to time.

Could a lock washer help? Or an extra nut?

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 6:30 pm

Take nut off and put some RED High-Temp Lok-Tite on the threads, then put nut back on.

Lightning wrote:Could a lock washer help? Or an extra nut?

rberq · Post by **rberq** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 9:40 pm

Lightning wrote:
fastcat wrote:After 4 years I have found that I have needed to tighten mine twice in that time and have no idea how it gets loose, just something to check from time to time.
Could a lock washer help? Or an extra nut?

Or spring-load it?

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Mon. Nov. 25, 2013 9:52 pm

A spring load of some sort would probably work real well:)

Smoker858 · Post by **Smoker858** » Sat. Nov. 30, 2013 10:45 am

I installed a compression spring on the slide damper door. It works very well and no more adjusting a lock nut. Keeps the slide plate tight against the doors backside.

fastcat · Post by **fastcat** » Sat. Nov. 30, 2013 11:15 am

Smoker858 wrote:I installed a compression spring on the slide damper door. It works very well and no more adjusting a lock nut. Keeps the slide plate tight against the doors backside.

Can you take a picture of what you did and post it, sounds like a really good fix for this problem.

Runaway Hitzer 50-93

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