Great work! Keep it simple till you get things figured out. Simple cold rolled steel pipe could be installed later if the conduit craps out. I'd even go so far as to have it made if you don't have a machine shop. They could add threads to your stove wall and thread the pipe so it just slips in place for a good clean finish. Then you can add a simple spinner for adjustment of the air flow.
In your video the air really seems to be moving fast. Is this the case? Slowing the air down would get you more heat transfer.
nortcan wrote:Just an idea:
do you think that having a much larger pipe, or Ex. a 2"H X 1/2"l channel or any larger size to have a sort of air warmer chamber with a larger volume of heated air and having drilled holes on the side of it could be an easy way to ""pre-heat the air in the tube ?
Larger volume of air with small openings to keep the air a longer time Inside of the chamber???
Hope the French can be understand
The subtle change in temp on the furnace isn't enough for me to measure in the warm air ducts. A 5 degree increase on the furnace would only amount to a fragment in the warm air ducts. I usually see 118-120 degrees in the duct when I have 370-380 on the furnace. SO it takes a 100 degree increase on the furnace to see an 18-20 degree increase in the warm air ducts. I kind of expected this. I didn't think I would see a huge increase in heat output, although I was hoping for a small measurable amount. I've always thought that anthracite burned pretty efficiently without secondary air after volatile burn off. I'm willing to say there is less than a few % CO as compared to CO2 in a mature slow burning coal fire. The only extra heat I'm gonna get is by converting that CO into CO2 with secondary air. Maybe I'm wrong here. I dunno lol.. I'm sure I get a little more heat with the 5 degree increase on the furnace but Its hard to prove itSunny Boy wrote:Interesting. The secondary pipes have increased the stove temp, and dropped the pipe temp. Adding the smaller hole caps is making the stove even hotter and the pipe cooler. But no as-big increase in duct temps, . . meaning that increase in heat, if it's not going up the pipe, where is it going ????
With no cover on the pipes, the pipe temp runs higher and the furnace temp falls. UNLESS its after a fresh load of coal.Sunny Boy wrote:How do those numbers compare to there being no cover at all on the pipes ? Might show a trend toward what would be the best hole sizes.
I don't think so.. Ash seems the same.Sunny Boy wrote:The beds burning more uniform ,are you seeing a difference in the ash ?
Maybe already mentioned by now. Slide one pipe into the other. Then a shot of spray paint though holes. That should mark the holes to be drilled through inner tube.Lightning wrote:Sunny Boy wrote:Is that one inch conduit ? If so, 3/4 inch fits rather nicely inside it. You could make them into rotary sleeve valves by having 3/4 conduit inside the 1 inch.
Drill matching holes from the 1 inch into the 3/4 inch. With the 1 inch tubes fastened in place so they don't move, when the 3/4 inch tubes are turned they will start to close off the 1/4 inch holes because of the holes going out of alignment. That will restrict all the holes in the pipes equal amount at the same time.
Edit, ok, I see your using 1-1/4 inch. How snug does the 1 inch fit inside it ?
Awesome idea, some of my holes aren't in a perfect line due to the drill dancing around. But I understand your suggestion, its excellent since it would restrict each hole individually. But lining them up would be challenging