I sure wish you guys would ask about dis-assembly or safeguarding the fan blade, blower shaft and bearing box(fan is $268.00.......shaft is $97.00, mount is $46.00)........... Your time to replace these items???
The auger is self explanatory.
There is a bracket for 130's and 260's that mounts on top of the bearing box and attaches to the round Heat Shield Flange securely so the fan and bearing box do not slam around in the move. The SAFEST method is to remove the BLOWER END OF THE BOILER. LOOSEN THE RUBBER MOUNTS THAT HOLD IT TO THE BASE ASSEMBLY. REMOVE THE LOWER SUPPORTS, THEN EITHER TWIST OFF, GRIND OFF OR REMOVE THE 4- 5/16" bolts that hold the heat shield assembly.........., BEARING BOX, ISOLATION MOUNTS, MOTOR AND GEARBOX are now able to be removed.. That takes about 200 lbs off instantly, and now not much is fragile. If you strip it in the basement, you will have lots of 'grip' points now, and not any 'bendable' parts. ALSO, on the observation door (feed end) remove the two 1/4" bolts on the top panel of the end of the base, and remove the ashing tray. Rusted cotter pins......probably will not cooperate, so snap them off and let the ashing arm hang free. ...Another 65 lbs you don't have to deal with........If you chose to separate the base from the boiler section , you will now be able to more safely, (read meaning LESS SKIN SACRIFICED). The tank-less needs to be blown out with air to make sure that no water remains, otherwise you have about 18 dollars of copper scrap that costs 350+/- to replace after it freezes up in your driveway, or on the trailer ride home. DO NOT try to remove the tank-less ,because unless your middle name is 'Lucky', you will snap off 8 of the nuts and studs...'.NMFP' Standards prevail. (Need More F***ing Parts.) You will be amazed at how many times the 'NMFP Protocol' will show up. Please do not be intimidated, and memorize the AA Phone Numbers.....tattoo it on your forearm, perhaps.
Now everything is much more manageable than trying to remove the beast in one piece. If you are suitably impressed with your brilliance, then by all means take her home, and luv her up in the shop for a few days.
I have a new install starting tomorrow and for once I will take some pics to keep you damned voyeurs happy. 1100 lbs of 'parts and pieces are already in the basement...so you have missed that part. Suffice it to say, no skid steer, excavator or crane were involved, (Sadly).....36" door; platform, 90 degrees, down a set of stairs. Four 4 '300+ lbs young bloods, and a stair dolly.....
Now, don't forget to try to remove the anthrastat screw (good luck) What a PITA...snaps off every time.....tap and replace with a hex head machine screw......then the rollers in the base...OMG. The cotter pins NEVER come out whole.....and I hear that adult beverages many be necessary to continue.......then on the other end of the base, ....the ashing assembly bushings(usually frozen solid to the shaft) Sometimes easier to replace the entire assembly if too rough......gear could be worn out also...and replace the push rod that contacts the ashing gear.......PLEASE do all the underneath work while you can still get at the base, and/ or flip the base over. These are just some of the things you need to do........ and get used to swimming in Anti-Seize, copper or silver...... For all of those who think this is fun little project, I might add that this is not a project that you can do in 8 hrs or even a weekend......sandblasting/grinding, welding if necessary...prime and paint, perhaps new wiring, bearings, controls....... Don't rush it, because the rebuilt will be good for another 30 years if you do it correctly and don't shortcut...... If you do not have a parts breakdown, call the girls at AA and they will mail, email or fax you the info. .......and you thought this would be a piece of cake, HA! Another thing to look at underneath is the cyclone separator funnel shaped insert. I have seen them with birds in them, mice, a rat once and a couple dead bats. How the hell they got in there, I will never know. That HAS to be cemented in and in good condition to capture fines and fly ash and 'separate; it from the exhaust stream. Just like one in a sawmill, woodworking shop, etc. As you know, AA's and AHS's do not need to be cleaned out simply because the fly ash and fines are mostly deposited on the ash tray below the separator and go harmlessly into the ash pan. To be sure, there is fly ash in the stack sometimes over long burn periods, so check it out monthly.....
Last edited by whistlenut
on Tue Dec 03, 2013 9:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.