Rigar wrote:....if that insulation is essentially a foil bubble wrap (like used for ductwork or radiant heat...rocking over it has essentially eliminated its effectiveness.
It provides excellent radiant performance...but a poor "true" R-value
...is this the ONLY insulation in the walls???
It isn't a bubble wrap it is a foam. I used it when I redid our living room and it worked fine as it has been warmer in there. This is the only insulation in the wall.
fastcat wrote:When did you start burning this year? Does the stove have a horizontal pipe into the chimney? Were all the pipes cleaned before starting this year? McG had a good point about fly ash in pipe, temps up till now have been fairly warm so our fires have been idling with very little draft so instead of the fly ash going out the top of the chimney it is laying in the pipe. If you open the ash pan door how long does it take for the fire to really start roaring? Thinking about it I have cleaned the T on the outlet of the stove twice this year already, I go straight up.
I started burning Oct. 18th. The pipes and flue cleaned Oct. 17th. It takes a little while to get going. Next warmer day coming up I will check it. Didn't think about that but with the mixture of cold and warm days early on I can see where the ash would accumulate. But, my question is, why/how would that affect the heat output of the stove? Stove temp is as hot as before.
oliver power wrote:You guys are hitting all around the problem. I see this all the time. You did NOT install a film of plastic on the interior wall as a vapor barrier. The drywall not being finished, allows moisture to escape. When you finished the drywall, you trapped in any moisture, which condensates on the insulation (mostly at ceiling), rendering it less effective. When the outside temps drop, you will notice it. The good part; it will get more comfortable as we get more into the heating season. You'll notice this happen every year. Lots of moisture in a house at the start of every heating season. Any remodel, or new construction job I've been around, if they installed a film of plastic from floor to ceiling as a moisture barrier, the rooms are nice and toasty, and draft free. If they didn't install the film of plastic, you'll feel that uncomfortable chill. Installing the film of plastic use to be common practice. On a more recent job, I asked the insulation guys why some jobs they put the plastic, and some they don't. They said it's at the customers request. Not to be an alarmist but, the rigid foam board you installed on the exterior should have foil on only one side. And that side is the side facing the heat. The side facing the siding should be foil free. In the warmer climates, it's just the opposite. Just remember; "the foiled side faces the heat". Oliver
The instructions said vapor barrier wasn't needed. Makes sense though. From what I could tell/remember there was no rigid foam board under the siding, just some kind of compressed black insulated sheeting then insulated metal siding on that. I did nothing to the outside, just the inside.