JohnnyV wrote:Finally got a new computer and was having NEPA withdrawal. However, on to a problem that is driving me nuts.
After a few years of living with insulation showing on the walls in the garage/family room redo, I finally finished it off with drywall, plastered, painted etc. It seems that every improvement I make the colder it feels in here and the more problems I have with the heat. For example, with just the insulation showing it could be in the single digits outside, I have my stove burning at 425/450 and it would at least 70-72 in here (without the blower running, just radiant heat). Now, with the room done, it is upper teens outside and the stove is burning at 425/450 and it is 66 in here. For the last week even when the outside temp hit 35 I wasn't able to get the temp up to 70 in the house. Usually at 35 and the stove burning at 400 I achieve 74-76.
My pipes after the baro are not hot at all. I could keep my hand on it all day, so that leads me to believe the heat isn't going up the flue. I did the smoke test and no smoke is going through baro or around the pipe going into the thimble so I don't think I am losing heat there. I can stand by the stove about 5 feet away and feel the heat coming off of it. I have walked around with the incense and the heat is going up but I can't find where I would be losing heat.
I am out of ideas. Fire is burning great, good draft, etc. I know I could turn the blower on to get the heat better distributed and I tried that for a while. It worked the temperature in the room went up. But, never needed to before and don't see why I would now, unless it gets really cold outside. I have a ceiling fan on like always since the ceiling is a cathedral style I don't want the heat staying up there.
Any ideas? I can't think of anything else changing anywhere in the house other than finishing this room off. (it is at the far end of the house, an old garage, insulated, new windows, doors, etc. and about 450-500 square feet). There is a hallway with a laundry room that ties into the rest of the house. I am not trying to heat the whole house up to 70+ because with the way this old house is built there are to many separate areas, just a little extra heat helps in there. I know before I finished this room of 400-450 sq/ft it would be hot enough in here that occasionally I would have to crack open a window or the door. Not now.
The wife isn't complaining yet. Although I know she notices it is colder in here as the blanket has come out. I am going to do another smoke test in the room near the ceiling and try and follow the smoke around even if it leads me to the rest of the house and try and find where the heat is going. It is going somewhere.
fastcat wrote:Sounds to me you have the problem I had, every time you seal something up you are reducing air flow. I ended up having to cup cold air registers in the floor upstairs and my heat started to come back, then I put a door corner fan under one of the registers to pull the colder air from the floor upstairs and send it down to the stove and now everything is back to normal. I'm just using gravity to move hot air up the stairs to my living area and that is the only place I get my hot air from.
Den034071 wrote:John check insul. around doors an windows .Also a big heat loser is wall receptacles do smoke test by each one .Loowes makes a gasket to fasten to rec . cover .Does your electric company do a blower door test .This will show you where heat loss is occuring .Good luck jack ex. builder an mason .
why I am not getting the same results or better results at the same stove temp, when I made these improvements to the room. I would have thought I could have the stove burn a little lower or the same and have it warmer in here. Thanks for the ideas.michaelanthony wrote:Good morning johnnyV, I am guessing in a remodeled garage/family room that a one point the floor was or is cement. If that is the case you have a huge heat sink and there are ways to fix that. You have been here a few years and you most likely know the ins and outs of a good fire i.e. stove filled to the top of the brick etc. Hitzer say's your stove is capable of 60,000 btu's is it hot, meaning your can walk up to it and feel the heat or do you need sun block at 2-3 ft. The stove in my living room is rated at 50,000 btu's and when I run it hard like today 15* out and 76 in here, 3 ft. and the heat will almost push me back Do you have a mpd as well as baro, and if so try covering the baro with a couple sheets of aluminum foil or a 6" cap if you have one and try running it with the mpd closed as much as possible to keep your draft. That brings me to my next question, do you have a manometer to measure your draft? How much coal are you burning and what type? The reason I ask is because I am running pea size coal and if I idle it at 400* it is "metza-metza", Italian for so-so, but when give it the air it likes I get 650* -700* everyone is happy. My stove is cast iron so I can do that. Some picks also would help sometimes folks will see something we overlook. Good luck and keep us updated that stove of yours is a winner![/quote
Yes the floor is concrete for now. That is one constant that hasn't changed (lol) in this whole scenario. Stove is full, good fire. I can walk right up to the stove. I just checked the temp 5 ft from stove is 75, 10 ft 72. The mpd is almost always closed. I dare not cover the baro. The fire will go nuts. Very breezy and fire will almost go out of control. But, I can try it when I get home later. I don't have a manometer, but the draft is good. I burn nut coal and usually burn a 5 gallon bucket a day. Maybe I need to try pea? I know I can turn the stove up to get it to burn hotter. My problem, and sometimes this gets me into trouble, is I want to knowfastcat wrote:know
Lightning wrote:fastcat wrote:Sounds to me you have the problem I had, every time you seal something up you are reducing air flow. I ended up having to cup cold air registers in the floor upstairs and my heat started to come back, then I put a door corner fan under one of the registers to pull the colder air from the floor upstairs and send it down to the stove and now everything is back to normal. I'm just using gravity to move hot air up the stairs to my living area and that is the only place I get my hot air from.
Until more information makes me think otherwise.. Similar to what fastcat is saying. It sounds to me that since you made improvements its redirected cold air infiltration that is cooling the room where it didn't before..
JohnnyV wrote:Any ideas? I can't think of anything else changing anywhere in the house other than finishing this room off. Thanks.
coalcracker wrote:But when you put the sheetrock or wallboard or whatever you finished it with, now that is absorbing the heat, and taking it away by conduction, like a heat sink, and carrying it out of the rooms. It will also conduct the heat into wiring, water pipes, fixtures, ducting, etc. in the wall
Lightning wrote:I disagree.. Eventually the sheet rock will reach room temperature and the insulation behind it will keep it from cooling. At that point the sheet rock won't act as a heat conductor..