Over Draft

How many thermometers are you using on the stove and pipe? I'm heating 2400 sq ft solely with the 110,000 BTU Hitzer running at a stove temp of 400* and a pipe temp of between 150* and 190* depending on the wind keeping the house at 72* all over and the basement is 80* in order to have that temp upstairs. If you are at 500* on the stove and your 24x24 basement isn't 80 or more start checking for ash build up under the coal bed, start poking and shaking to get it out. Check with I'M ON FIRE (one of our members) I think he is using the same stove and what he had to do to over come his cold air problems in order to heat his house. But if that stove isn't putting out the heat you need to stay warm start looking at the stove first. Just went through this with another member that wasn't getting the heat out of his stove, had a good fire had good temp on the stove but it wasn't making heat had low temp on the stack.

CC.
"................... if the baro closes off the stovepipe due to high wind conditions, then what's left trying to vent the stove, ............."

Have you ever seen , much less ever installed and adjusted a baro?

Paul

keepa eye, are you just running a baro? And, do you have a cap up top? AND---are people setting these baro things properly?

Fred, yes I do have a baro and a cap on top but it's not like the class-a cap that I think you have it's just a rain cap. I can't tell you if there setting them right or not but I'm going between .06 and .08"WC so somewhere in between is the sweet spot all I know is that it runs better then ever Keepaeyeonit

I'm burning the stove at a consistent 450-500 degrees to keep up with my house. And to be honest when it hits single digits, the stove doesn't keep up. My friend burns the same stove with coal from the same place in a similar size house and at that temp it makes his house way too hot. So I've obviously got a problem somewhere. Like I said, I had first tried a hitzer stove and thought it was too small for the house. I'm now realizing that maybe the stove wasn't he problem. I've got heat loss somewhere and to me the flu makes the most sense because the radiant heat coming off the stove just doesn't feel adequate at the temps I'm burning.

I'm going through approximately 1.5 buckets of nut coal a day. I'm careful to shake the box down good and I scrape the edges with a poker to avoid ash buildup. I do get an occasional clinker but the ashes I get usually look fine. I'm going to try installing the cap and see what happens. Unfortunately because of my work schedule, probably won't get to it till next week...

I ran my DS1600 entire last year with MPD 80% closed with no problems. I finally installed a manometer and now realize I was pulling .06-.10 draft. For past week with manometer installed and MPD closed 100% I am pulling .05 all the time! Perfect (I believe .03-.05 is optimum)
I do realize that if I turn heat down much I will have to open MPD as required to maintain draft.

Please purchace a manometer! You wont regret it

fastcat wrote:How many thermometers are you using on the stove and pipe? I'm heating 2400 sq ft solely with the 110,000 BTU Hitzer running at a stove temp of 400* and a pipe temp of between 150* and 190* depending on the wind keeping the house at 72* all over and the basement is 80* in order to have that temp upstairs. If you are at 500* on the stove and your 24x24 basement isn't 80 or more start checking for ash build up under the coal bed, start poking and shaking to get it out. Check with I'M ON FIRE (one of our members) I think he is using the same stove and what he had to do to over come his cold air problems in order to heat his house. But if that stove isn't putting out the heat you need to stay warm start looking at the stove first. Just went through this with another member that wasn't getting the heat out of his stove, had a good fire had good temp on the stove but it wasn't making heat had low temp on the stack.

Wow, running my 50-93 at 400-450 I have a stack of around 300 on average. If the flap in the back has been closed for awhile the stack will get down to 200, but that doesn't last long. The other night after a shake down I saw a 600 stack temp and that is with a magnetic thermometer.

mm, what type pipe damper are you using?

Coal cracker wrote:

with a coal stove, you can adjust it all from the lower draft controls, if everything else is airtight, and there's a well designed baffle inside the stove already- basically the interior baffle is doing what the MPD used to do, but right inside the stove, and the baffle is much larger, and an integral part of the stove.

This man knows his stuff. Everyone should be reading his entire post in this thread.

freetown fred wrote:mm, what type pipe damper are you using?

It's a MPD made by US Stove I think.

MM, My pipe temps are in line with yours, not to be concerned my friend. I should hope your MPD is made by US stove or at least by someone that makes a quality product Is your house staying warm? PS--should I question the calibration on a lot of these magnetic thermos people stick all over their stoves?????

Sunny Boy wrote:CC.
"................... if the baro closes off the stovepipe due to high wind conditions, then what's left trying to vent the stove, ............."

Have you ever seen , much less ever installed and adjusted a baro?

Paul

X2

mmcoal wrote:

fastcat wrote:How many thermometers are you using on the stove and pipe? I'm heating 2400 sq ft solely with the 110,000 BTU Hitzer running at a stove temp of 400* and a pipe temp of between 150* and 190* depending on the wind keeping the house at 72* all over and the basement is 80* in order to have that temp upstairs. If you are at 500* on the stove and your 24x24 basement isn't 80 or more start checking for ash build up under the coal bed, start poking and shaking to get it out. Check with I'M ON FIRE (one of our members) I think he is using the same stove and what he had to do to over come his cold air problems in order to heat his house. But if that stove isn't putting out the heat you need to stay warm start looking at the stove first. Just went through this with another member that wasn't getting the heat out of his stove, had a good fire had good temp on the stove but it wasn't making heat had low temp on the stack.

Wow, running my 50-93 at 400-450 I have a stack of around 300 on average. If the flap in the back has been closed for awhile the stack will get down to 200, but that doesn't last long. The other night after a shake down I saw a 600 stack temp and that is with a magnetic thermometer.

With all these magnetic thermometers I don't think there are two that would read the same. This is a good for instance why everybody needs to adjust their stove to their own figures and why Fred says you need to be smarter than your steel stove. We can all give help on how to do things properly but using settings by someone else's figures stove temp, stack temp and so on is ridicules unless you both live in the same house have the same stove and so on. You need to take the info we give apply what you feel might help and adjust from there to your own readings.
If your basement is cinder or concrete block with no insulation on the inside your trying to ride a dead horse. Those blocks will never heat up so your heat is going to the ground right through the blocks. What is different about your friends house, finished basement, different type walls, what? There has to be something and this is what we keep saying no two houses are alike.

simple solution - you need a larger barometric damper. So, if your connecting pipe is 6" for example, use a reducer, bring the pipe to 8", then, install 8" T (with 8" baro in it) and another reducer back to 6". What I mentioned is the proper and recommended way to solve excessive draft.

freetown fred wrote: PS--should I question the calibration on a lot of these magnetic thermos people stick all over their stoves?????

The quality of these magnetic stove/flue thermometers is atrocious. I've had new ones that read close to 100* off at 400*. You can adjust the pointer to correct the reading but then it will never be right at the lower stove temps a coal stove might see. I have a couple Raytek MT6 Infrared thermometers that I use to calibrate the stove thermometers & check flue/stove temps among other things.