IH Cub wrote:Hello. I was hoping someone could help me with the back of my fire going out on my harman. Last night, the entire firebox was burning great. This morning, the back 4" or so of the fire looks to be out. There is unburnt coal on the back of the fire. I shake it every 12 hours until coal drop from the whole fire. Thus morning, I lost some of my fire because I shook it so much to get done coals to drop from the back of the fire.
This is the third time in the last month this has happened. My strive dealer (Deleurs back to basics) said to be sure I shake the fire enough. If I shake it any more, I won't have a fire. I have a barometric damper that is always a little open this time of year. My chimney is drafting great (no Mano), but the Baro has been pulling a little open since I restarted it last week.
I plan to let the fire burn until the rest burns out over the next day or so. I will just shake it twice a day but add no coal. I really don't want to start the stove back up again until I have an idea as to the problem. I am planning on contacting harman because it is still under warranty. Maybe the back grate isn't shaking properly? I just don't know.
read your manual, it should not have any mpd damper on it at all, per manual- it also requires a minimum 8" flue pipe. If you are using smaller than that, it's killing the volume of air needed to fire the stove, on days with low pressure .
lose the baro, it will have more draft, and fire better. Baros by design, kill draft- why would anyone want to REDUCE draft ? That's like saying, I want to reduce horsepower in my car. Just silly. It's an airtight stove, just close the front draft controls if you want to reduce draft. If it leaks, get new door seals. Baro devices were made for oil heaters primarily, they don't work well on coal stoves, unless it is a stoker.
Harman stoves are highly efficient designs- they are already heavily internally baffled from the factory, it's like having a stove with the MPD closed already. My Mark I only has a 2" slot in the heat exchanger for exhaust. That's why they insist on no MPD damper. You'd need a chimney 50 feet long with a draw fan on it, to overcome the internal baffling of a Harman. They also have built in fixed door glass secondary air vents, so any extreme draw on the chimney, pulls through the door glass vents first, and bleeds off draft. It's like having a built in baro in the stove already.
that's why if you add the MPD and baro devices to a Harman, they perform poorly. Actually I'd not put those devices on ANY stove, I'd strive to make it airtight first. If it's airtight you don't need those useless devices. If a stove needs a baro or mpd, what that says is, the doors and draft controls are lousy and leak badly- and it needs a band aid to control draft. If it's sealed up, it will meter down to a simmer without those silly gadgets. Think about it.
here's the manual, go to page 7.http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/instal ... 0.pdfTypes
Of ChimneysTHE STOVE MUST BE CONNECTED TO ITS OWN
TILE-LINED FLUE. A MINIMUM FLUE SIZE OF 8” X 8” IS
NECESSARY FOR PROPER OPERATION.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD A MANUAL
FLUE DAMPER BE INSTALLED IN THE SMOKE PIPE
BETWEEN THE STOVE AND THE CHIMNEY.
NO DAMPER, HEAT SAVER OR AUTOMATIC VENT
DAMPER DEVICE SHOULD BE INSTALLED IN OR ON
THE SMOKE PIPE.